Monday, in A Nous Paris, Alexis Chenu reviewed without rating the previously mentioned Bonhomie in the 10th and Philippe Toinard reviewed and gave 3/5 dots to Les Petits Princes, 26, rue du Val d’Or in Suresnes, 01.41.47.87.61 closed Saturday lunch, Sunday and Monday nights where for 36 a la carte or 22 and 29 E at lunch one has items such as tete de veau, merlu and chocolate mousse.
Tuesday, in Le Fooding, Matthieu Jauniau-Dallier reviewed the British chef’d Le Grand Bain, 14 rue Denoyer in the 20th, 09.83.02.72.02, closed Tuesday and Wednesdays serving scallops, beef Wellington and floating island for 16-35 E.
Wednesday in Figaroscope, Emmanuel Rubin reviewed his usual 5 new restaurants; giving 2 hearts to three: the previously mentioned Odette in the 1st, the previously mentioned Vantre in the 11th; and L'Huitrade du Chiberta, 3, rue Arsene-Houssaye in the 8th, 01.53.53.42.00, closed Saturday lunch and Sundays, costing 68 E a la carte and 49 E for the lunch menu featuring a tartine, oysters and a brioche. Garnering one heart was the Café Marlette in the 9th and getting a broken heart – Mio Posto in the 11th.
Emmanuel Rubin also went (in his Hache Menu) to the crab-focused Crabe Royal, 19, place de la Madeleine in the 8th, 01.81.69.96.70, closed Sundays, where for 45-60 E one gets every sort of preparation; from caramelized to decorticated.
Figaroscope’s Dossier by Alice Bosio, Colette Monsat and Hugo de Saint-Phalle listed all the new places around Les Halles: Chez La Veielle, Champeaux, AG Les Halles, The Fish Club, IppudoAu Pied de Cochon, Clover Grill and also Odette, Maison Kaiseki St-Honore & Les Artizans.
Wednesday as well, Heidi Ellision in Paris Update went back to Chatomat and liked it as before.
Thursday, in L’Express Styles, Francois-Regis Guidry reviewed Accents, 24, rue Feydeau in the 2nd, 01.40.39.92.88, closed weekends with menus at 28, 37 and 48 (lunch) and 68 E (dinner), serving items such as mushroom raviolis and a complicated deboned pork along with desserts prepared by a Japanese pastry chef.
Les Tablettes de Jean-Louis Nomicos is one of those "old reliables" that never lets one down, has a fabulous price-quality ratio, and has the service to match. Colette and I had been to the Chtchoukine Exhibition at the Louis Vuitton and it was a quick Uber over to meet our friend who works nearby.
The chef started us off with superb bread rolls, EVOO and mall bowls of pumpkin soup; then Colette had a very generous portion of scallops with salad while the other two of us enjoyed the lobster raviolis.
For mains we had the cod, veal and confited lamb: all good but dark as you see, I being too lazy to Photoshop them brighter.
The desserts were equally good: a sort-of floating island, chocolate with ice cream and an assortment of mignardises.
Our bill with a bottle of wine, no bottled water but three coffees, was 172 E or 114.66 E a couple.
Alliance in the 5th is one of those places whose magical cooking draws you back for reasons you can't put your finger on; it's simple, complex, multilayered and elegant. Neither Colette nor I were seeking a big meal so we ordered one dish each and a light dessert- yah sure.
Our light dishes were a piece of fish from the waters around one of our favorite places - Noirmoutier - and sweetbreads in butter and the dessert a vanilla mousse. But around them were a flurry of vegetables, soups, desserts and chocolates that dazzled the palate.
Our bill for this feast with one bottle of wine, no bottled water, but 2 espressos was 136 E.
And as a treat I'll leave you with this bathroom art:
Le Petit Varenne has been open for a short time and it already has attracted a great following from the staff in the ministries that surround it.
I was in the mood for some sausage and these razor-thin cuts accompanied by tiny picked veggies were just the thing; meanwhile our guest had the raviolis with coques and razor clams. For mains, Colette had a delicious merlu with "venerable" black rice while our friend and I both had the "pore" of beef with red onion. For dessert we all shared the chocolate three ways - called simply Le Chocolat - on the menu - delicious.
With a bottle of wine, no bottled water and 3 espressos, our bill was 145 E or 92.66 E a couple.
Tomy & Co is safely settled into the Rue Surcouf and my friends and Colette started off with tiny coques and bulots and chopped vegetables and a dish of gnocchis with black truffles, chestnuts and old comte. Both dishes received high marks!
At this point we all expected our main courses to roll out but Tomy had a surprise, his house special that day of merlu with clementines and celery rabe - very nice. Then our friends had the duck filets and we had the scallops; all of which were quite good.
For desserts we had the Ossau-Iraty and Tomy's espuma with mango and lime his excellent signature dish we often enjoyed at Pirouette.
Our bill, with two bottles of wine, one bottle of water and three coffees was 126.25 E a couple.
L'Arcane in the 18th is another place I loved that not only Colette but one of my readers picked out as a place worth going back to. After settling that we had no allergies or violent dislikes (abats on our guests' part) the dishes rolled out:
- a langoustine and amuse bouche - bar and baby coques - varieties of lamb - chocolate mousse - a pre-dessert and - desserts
Our bill for this 3 course turned into 6 course meal, with a bottle and a glass of wine, no bottled water and 3 coffees, was 209 E or 104.50 E a couple.
Monday in A Nous Paris Jerome Berger awarded the previously mentioned Chez la Vieille in the First 4/5 dots and Philippe Toinard gave 3/5 to the Mediterranean Avli in the 10th.
Tuesday, in Le Fooding, Deana Saukam reviewed le Grand Bol in the 11th.
Wednesday, in Figaroscope, Emmanuel Rubin reviewed and rated 5 new restaurants, giving three 2 hearts to: the "Amerique du terroir" Melt in the 11th; the Brit Blindpig Pub in the 10th and Le Basilic, 2, rue Casimir-Perrier in the 7th, 01.44.18.94.64, open 7/7 where for about 50 E one can dine on an bio egg, steak au poivre and cod. Garnering one heart only were the neo-gasthaus Saucette in the 3rd and the pasta-focused Sfizio in the 2nd.
His Hache Menu returned to the well-known but recently purchased LAmbassade d'Auverge in the 3rd.
The test/Dossier by Alice Bosio and Colette Monsat this week was for the best chocolate cookie in Paris. Tops was Mokonuts.
Sunday, in the jdd, Aurelie Chaigneau covered three places: the Italian Livio in Neuilly (7/10); the well-known Robe et le Palais (6/10) in the 1st; and the previously mentioned Encore in the 9th (6/10).
Rainettes in the 4th is a frog place, OK? Let's get that out of the way; if you don't like frogs and/or frogs' legs stop reading now. Even if you like them, stop reading now and go because given the crazy trends in Paris dining, they could be gone tomorrow.
So one needs a 1st before the main event - which is frogs' legs, remember? - our friend up the road chose the snails - vary Franch non? - and Colette and I had the onion soup - that did not sweep me back to 1953 but then I was anticipating.....
The frogs' legs and yes, they were every bit as good as last time here a month ago or in 1953 down at the old Halles. My dining partners told me that the gratin of potatoes and butternut squash were equally as good.
Colette had a superb apple tart for dessert and my crème renversee, remember it from Chapter 24 in French in Action?, was up to Capretz standards.
Our bill, with no bottled water but two bottles of wine and two coffees, was 90 E a couple.
Belle Maison in the 9th is a safe harbor off the Rue des Martyrs' madness and despite its cool temperature, provided a warm welcome.
Colette started off with some splendid scallops and our fried just back from South Africa and I had the raviolis stuffed with crustaceans and salmon. A very auspicious beginning but as Colette pointed out, portions seem to be approaching American standards.
For their main courses, all of which are printed on a separate listing of 2 daily specials and two fish specials, convincing me they stick with what came in today; our friend had a big chunk of veal with veggies and Colette had two large filets of merlan - I being content to poach off their large portions.
For desserts, Colette chose the baba a la williamine, our friend had a chou with pralinated cream and I went with a scrumptious right out of the oven tarte tatin sort of - to me it looked like a tipped over kouing-aman - all were worthy of their roles in finishing out the meal.
Our bill, with fine bread and algae butter, a bottle a glass of wine, no bottled water but three Illy coffees, was 133 E or 88.66 E a couple.
7.8 Pirouette, at the old address in the 1st but with a new chef, Francois-Xavier Ferrol who comes off cooking 7 years at the Bristol and Ledoyen, has long been a favorite of ours and we wondered how things were going a half-year after Tomy Gosset had departed for his own place in the 7th. Short answer: very well indeed.
Our genial host, a bit less hirsute than when last seen, started us off with glasses of bubbly and balls of onion with creamy parmesan, which were over the top.
For mains, two of us had the scallops with Jerusalem artichokes and leeks, one the red partridge with a sauce diable and I had a perfect egg with cream of Jerusalem artichoke and mushrooms and ham.
Desserts were the rice pudding with caramel beurre sale and a coco sable with chocolate and almond ice cream.
Our bill, with a bottle of my favorite wine, which they recalled, a bottle of water, and 4 coffees, was 167 E or 83.50 E a couple (oh yah, there was one other dish, a parmesan pre-dessert, offered that was terrific.