Monday-Tuesday, in A Nous Paris, Philippe Toinard, reviewed and gave 4/5 dots to the “restaurant of the rentree” famed Singapore chef Andre Chiang’s Porte 12, 12 rue des Messageries in the 10th (the old Café Panique space) 01.42.46.22.64, closed Saturday lunch, Sunday and Monday, with lunch menus at 28 and 35 and dinner at 58 and 65 E for items such as a risotto of soy sprouts, “exploding” melon capsule, merlan and interesting sounding desserts; meanwhile Jerome Berger reviewed and gave 3/5 dots to the previously mentioned Pages in the 16th.
Tuesday in Le Fooding, Matthieu Jauniau-Dallier reviewed Porte 12, as well.
And Wednesday in Figaroscope, Emmanuel Rubin’s Hache Menu called the chef at Porte 12 a great talent. He then reviewed 5 new places, awarding 3 hearts to the aforementioned A. Noste and 2 hearts each to previously mentioned L’Atelier Vivanda II in the 6th; the Viet Namese Nha Que in the 11th; and Le Vieux Crapaud, 16, rue Lauriston in the 16th, 01.73.75.10.00, closed weekends, which for 50-60 E, serves ox tail salad, pigs’ ears and lentils. He rated one, one heart for the cave a manger Au Vin sur la Planche, 38, rue Condorcet in the 9th, 01.44.63.86.58, closed Mondays, which for between 20 and 30 E serves items such as duck with potatoes, cakes by Rachel and good wines
Figaroscope’s Dossier by Hugo de Saint Phalle and Colette Monsat is on where to get ceviche: Bistro Urbain Le Cevicheria Fish Club Clamato Braisenville Unico Tsubame La Plantxa And also the Bar a Huitres
And Alice Bosio and Colette Monsat wrote about locavore places: Le Pantruche Terroir Parisien L’Epi Dupin Pierre Sang Boyer in Oberkampf Le Comptoir Tempero
And, and Hadrien Gonzales wrote more about food trucks: Restaurant Australia Chinese Mum Dim Sum Argentinian El Carrito de Clasico Breton Breizh Truck Gascon Canard Huppe
Wednesday, also, Heidi Ellison in Paris Update reviewed the relocated and bigger Le Gaigne and found it underwhelming.
Trinacria Cafe in Baltimore is an offshoot of Trinacria Foods - Italian Deli and Gourmet Grocery, which has been in business since 1908. Why it took a century plus to figure out that Baltimorons wanted/needed an Italian eat-in/take-out joint on the Westside Downtown is a mystery; but it matters not, it's a fine addition to the city's lackluster restaurant opportunities. Colette and i went on an impulse and a fine impulse it was.
She ordered a Greek Salad (1/2 of which she took home) and I had Trinacria's "Famous Sausage" on a margheritta (not really) "thin crust" pizza, of which I took home 1/4th. They have oodles of olives, wines, biscotti and gelati for sale and take out.
Our bill, with a bottle of Sangiovese and two espressi, was $35.37.
Go? If from out of town or local and at the Walters - yes, it's a nice safe harbor for lunch. As a destination for fine dinner dining, no. The manageresse is terrific.
Monday-Tuesday, in A Nous Paris, Jerome Berger reviewed and gave 3/5 dots to the previously mentioned Indian MG Road and the previously mentioned Italian Caffe Stern; while Philippe Toinard, reviewed and gave 3/5 to the previously mentioned Le Gaigne, now in the 8th.
Tuesday in Le Fooding, there was a review of the Percherons in Ceret.
Wednesday in Figaroscope, Emmanuel Rubin, now doing the Hache Menu, led off with a review of the rather pricy (90-120 E) 16th restaurant – Victoria 1836, 12, rue de Presbourg, 01.44.17.97.72. Then he followed with his usual five reviews : giving 5/5 hearts to Alain Ducasse au Plaza Athenee which ran him 400 E for caviar, stockfish and a sardine. Two places got 2/5 hearts, the Soba restaurant Sara in the 1st and the Yankee organic/bio Rachel’s in the 3rd. One heart went to the Gyoza II in the 3rd and the Italian/Corsican Piadineria Lozio in the 10th.
Figaroscope’s Dossier by Alice Bosio, Colette Monsat and Hugo de Saint Phalle celebrating the Street Food Temple event 19-21 September around the Carreau du Temple, mentioned restaurants there : the Cafe Pinson, Cafe Philippe, Fondation Cafe, Les Vitelloni, Monsieur Henri, The Broken Arm, L’Ilot.
Wednesday, also, Heidi Ellison in Paris Update reviewed Cock Art (the first restaurant to open in the new food street) and had a very mixed opinion.
4.0 Le Gaigne, 2, rue de Vienne in the 8th, 01.45.22.23.62 (Metro: Europe), closed Saturday lunch and Sundays, is a restaurant with the same name and same chef (Mickaël Gaignon) as his former gem in the 4th which I loved beyond measure. But oh what a difference; - a cool, discrete outside - designer inside - 40 rather than 16 covers - Madame (Aurélie) nowhere to be seen, replaced by two jolly, friendly male professionals - a huge wine list and - prices many times that at the old haunt.
We were served amusing dainty amuses just as one would expect in an 8th joint, then my fellow-blogger ordered the cold soup of green leafy things which was extraordinarily soul-less while I scored with a toasty baked egg in a bed of mushrooms and their sauce.
For our mains we decided to go 50-50 but she started off with an overcooked, oversalted ray saved by a very tasty tasting lentil concoction and I had a good but not mind-blowing pintade.
For dessert, we again decided to order both and see; well, the mirabelle/sorbet thing was simply nowhere and the crepes without any ooompf. The mignardises were 8th-stuff once again - but the coffee was great.
With a bottle and two glasses of wine, no bottled water, excellent bread and that superb coffee, our bill was 127 E. dB level = 68.2 befitting the suit and tie 8th clientele.
Go? I've got to hear a lot more reports from trusted sources showing that Gagnon has upped his game before I return. But return I will because I know how good his food can be. Transiting to the center, especially the 8th, works for some (Eric Frechon) but not all for all (Mark Singer & Catherine Guerraz).
7.8 Le Comptoir Tempero, 124, Blvd Vincent Auriol (you remember him, the first president of the Fourth Republic from 1947 to 1954, well I do) right off the Square Pinel (he who took the chains off mental patients), 01.45.84.15.35, no reservations at least at lunch, (Metro: Nationale), closed weekends and Monday, is the off-shoot of Tempero, also in the 13th, where the Brazilian-Franco-Viet Namian couple set up their first place. Confession: I never went because "Brazilian-Franco-Viet Namian food" sounded confused, how wrong I was. The outside is the now-standard minimalist grey gun-metal, the inside raw wood and cool walls.
The amuses were those spicy little balls, the bread good, no very good, really really good and the wines, starting at 23 E a bottle - impressive. Oh and the menu/carte seemed Ok, but nothing out of the ordinary - how wrong I was.
Oh, how wrong. My first was called gyozas of lamb with beets, but the raviolis were perfectly cooked and perfectly set off by a spicy beet sauce; my main was called seabass with black rice, but the bass was perfectly sourced and marinated in some tasty thing, and its skin was crispy crunchy and came with beets two ways (confited and cooked) and a huge 1/2 carrot; and my dessert, a cheesecake the likes of which Philadelphia has never seen - about the best ever.
So to the bill. 3 courses here are 20 E (no, not kidding), a bottle of wine 23 E, so for two, with no bottled water but coffee (superb, beans ground before your very eyes), tossing in a supplement for the bar, a couple can easily exit starting at 64 E. Decibel level = 82.3 dB.
Go? Lordy me yes. I've been reading reviews and Hounders talking about 400 E - $1000 meals that may be nice stuff from Ducasse & Savoy (both of whom I've eaten with) but this sort of place with a young exciting chef is more interesting to me at this point in my life. BTW, the tables were full by 13h00.
5.8 Bobby & Bobette, 14, Rue Houdon in the 18th, 09.81.76.04.80 (Metro: Absesses) is a place whose truck I passed a while back and thought its mothership deserved a look. The day I went a crew was laying cable in front of it and provided great street theater during my meal.
I had just spent the night sleeping on a bench (no kidding) in the Brussels airport in my crazy escape route from Madrid to Paris with Air France's strike and was really dizzed out. But I tried to make the meal as good as I could and started off with a ceviche of cod, moved on to a veal kidney in cream sauce and ended with a superb creme brulee.
With 50 cl of Bordeaux and such a 3-course, "fresh products/fait maison" meal, with no coffee or bottled wayer, the bill comes to 36 E.
Go? Well it is nice to have an alternative on the Mont to Jeanne B. and the Cantine de la Cigale if they're closed. Although Le Miroir is here too i suppose.