Ze Kitchen Galerie in the 6th remains one of Colette and my favorites and we were delighted to share our enthusiasm with two folks from the old neighborhood autumning in Paris. Despite our living 7 clicks away, this has always seemed to us to be our neighborhood cantine where one always encounters a warm welcome, delightful service and ever-surprising food from a 3-star chef (don't worry, the Michelin will eventually catch up).
Said chef started us off with a light cold cucumber soup; then I moved on to octopus with a nifty spicy sauce; and then we were all treated to another soup, this of coconut milk, girolles, beans and lemon grass.
Our mains consisted of a lovely piece of cod, succulent strips of lamb and squid slices with tempered vegetables sprinkled lightly with salt - truly delicious to the nth degree.
Desserts consisted of the innovative presentations of figs, plums and white chocolate with wasabi "cigarettes".
Our bill, with their filtered water, plus 3 glasses of wine and one of beer (all offered) and 3 coffees, was 106.25 a couple.
I swear that all these photos were taken Sept 26, 2016, the day of the first Trump-Clinton debate: A Trumpesque waiter painting, the Kaiser poster saying "When you want to fool the world tell the truth" and the Second Nazi Occupation of Paris, 75 years later by a film crew - what these have to do with each other I'll leave up to you.
Monday, in A Nous Paris, Philippe Toinard reviewed and rated (4/5 dots) the previously mentioned Jean Chauvel/3B in Boulogne-Billancourt and Jerome Berger reviewed and gave 3/5 dots to the previously mentioned Jouvence in the 12th.
Tuesday, in Le Fooding, Matthieu Jauniau-Dallier reviewed Abri Soba, a Japanese soba shop in the 9th.
Wednesday, in Figaroscope, Hugo de Saint Phalle, Alica Bosio and Colette Monsat described the new places to eat shared dishes: Elmer (St Pierre) Thoumieux (mixed grill) Passerini (saddle of lamb) Mamma Primi (cacio e pepe) Antoine (sole) Desnoyer (cote de boeuf) Gallina (roast chicken) Bouillon (canard de Challans)
Emmanuel Rubin reviewed his usual 5 new restaurants; awarding 3 hearts to Pierre Jancou’s Achille (previously described) in the 11th. He gave 2 hearts to 3 places: IMA, an Israeli-type salad bar open only for lunch in the 10th; Gallina, a neo-rotisserie next door to IMA, at 37, quai de Valmy in the 10th, 01.48.03.47.22, closed Mondays and Tuesdays serving (for 15-30 E) roast chicken, mac and cheese and beautiful cocktails; and Juvia, 105, rue du Fbg-Saint-Honore in the 8th, 09.66.82.41.08, closed Sundays where for 40-50 E one dines on items such as a terrine maison, detox salad and Thai soup. Garnering only 1 heart was the Dim Sum Cantine in the 2nd.
For his Hache Menu he went to the ex-Savoy chef Clement Leroy’s Table du Connetable in the Jeu de Paume in Chantilly.
Thursday, in L’Express Charles Patin O'Coohoon reviewed the already mentioned Tondo in the 12th and Mina Soundiram reviewed the previously mentioned trattoria Mamma Primi in the 17th.
Sunday, in the jdd, Aurelie Chaigneau reviewed (7/10) the previously mentioned Juvia in the 8th ; the Vietnamese Bo bun place James Bun (7) in the 17th ; and returned to La Cantine du Troquet (6.5) in the 15th. In its version femina, Julie Gerbet reviewed the previously mentioned Tondo in the 12th and La Fontaine de Belleville, 31-33, rue Juliette-Dodu in the 10th, open 7/7, 09.81.75.54.54 costing a la carte 10-20 E for true French brasserie food.
Backstory: As Colette and I were climbing the Mont to our destination, the Bistrot de la Galette, we were shocked to see a guy on a ladder pounding the caulking out of the door, with shattered glass all over the place. We stood there watching until Madame (not Debray, she's long gone) came out and explained that the bistrot, along with several other places had been broken into last night with the loss of a bit of money but a postponement in its opening today.
I turned to Colette "Now whatdawedo?" I said. "Ah, ha, I just read in your Pariscope that the Moulin de la Galette, just down the street, has reopened under new management and staff; let's try it?" "Wasn't that place awful?" "Yes, but the reviewer, Johanna Alam, says it's been converted from a "usine a tourists" to a nice place by an ex-Michel Rostang chef named Anthony Detemmerman." "Worth a try, eh?"
6.9 Le Moulin de la Galette, 83, rue Lepic in the 18th, 01.46.06.84.77, open 7/7 (Bus: Montmartrebus) has a new "look" about it, even with the old Montmartre posters, photos and drawings. The menu is limited but OK for us (there are menus at 23 and 29 E at lunch except for Sundays.)
I started with a perfect egg in a creamy onion sauce with an ample portion of beautiful girolles. Two kinds of good bread helped soak up the remainders.
Colette had one of the best pieces of cod of the year with a slightly citrusy flavored sauce, tomatoes and fennel two ways; and I had a luscious pintade rollatine, a bit under-cooked as asked for, with radishes and turnips.
For desserts, we shared a millefeuille of caramel beurre sale and fresh figs with gingerbread - dishes we thought were not up to the food that preceded them.
Our bill, with a bottle of Cotes de Bordeaux, no bottled water but 2 coffees, was 118 E.
Go back? Without question. It's one more rare exception to the rule of never eating on the top of the Mont.
Ken Kawasaki in the 18th blew me away two weeks ago and I was eager to return with Colette. The primary difference was the noisy brocante outside today; the huge number of courses and flavors remained.
As before the courses came promptly but not hurriedly: - An amuse bouche of a "sandwich" of pork and pistachio pate - House made bread and olive oil tinged with Japanese lime - A tofu pureed soup with Japanese chives, ham, pumpkin cubes and other seasonal vegetables - Two duck "meatballs" with sliced bok choi and tomatoes - Cold ginger soup - A beautiful square of St Pierre with grilled vegetables such as a standout mushroom and parmesan wafers - Sliced beef filet with potato and vegetable "chips" and tiny dollops of raw wasabi and algae salt - A "parfait" of banana and orange sorbet and cheese fluff - Several types of chocolate mignardises and ristretto.
Our bill, with a bottle of wine and two coffees plus their bottled water (4 E) was 123 E (Colette had the St Pierre; I had both the fish and beef).
Le Pres d'Ici in the 18th is a place I ate at a few weeks ago and under Colette's, our dear friend down the Rue du Poteau's and my tradition, a place local enough to eat on days we return from trips abroad. The carte didn't look much different than it did then, except for the daily specials: tuna and duck confit.
For first, our friend chose the gravlax with cucumber and lime cream, Colette had the gazpacho of zucchini with mint; and I repeated my delicious vegetable tempura.
For mains, our friend chose the aubergine and small vegetables on quinoa; Colette had the fish of the day - bonito tuna with spinach and bby tomatoes; and had was so busy I have no time to photograph my shredded duck confit prepared parmentier style.
For dessert Colette ordered the poached peach with rosemary and I the meringue with coffee glacee (a semifreddo really).
Our bill, with a bottle and a glass of wine and 2 coffees was 92 E or 61.32 E a couple.
PS. Colette wants it noted that it was too hot and noisy and the bread was "lousy."
Monday in A Nous Paris, Alexis Chenu reviewed the 5 Guys burger joint in the 12th and Jerome Berger reviewed and gave 3/5 dots to the Italian Via Emilia in the 9th
Wednesday, in Figaroscope, Colette Monsat, Alice Bosio and Hugo de Saint Phalle described the last terraces of summer that included: Les Maquereaux Lazare Jamon Jamon Caminto Koko Brumaire Juvia Le Cameleon d’Arabian
Emmanuel Rubin reviewed his usual 5 new restaurants; awarding 3 hearts to Loiseau Rive Gauche, 5, rue de Bourgogne in the 7th, 01.45.51.79.42, closed Sundays and Mondays, costing about 100E unless one takes the menus at 45 and 88 or lunch formulas at 29 and 39E for items such as escargots, milk-fed beef and ile flottante. Getting 2 hearts each were the Italian Via Emilia in the 9th and Mersea, 6, rue du Faubourg-Montmafrtre in the 9th, 09.73.22.46.13, open 7/7, with formulas of 9.50 and 14 E, a la carte 15 and 25 E for cod, fish&chips and lemon tart. One heart each went to Comptoir de Montevideo in the 1st and Le 58 in the 2nd.
For his Hache Menu he went to the previously described Paris-Texas in the 10th.
Thursday, in L’Express Charles Patin O'Coohoon reviewed the already mentioned Daroco in the 2nd.
John's Top Thirteen in 2016 (after the rentrée [Sept 13]) 8.5 Papillon 8.25 Elmer, 3B 8.0 Anthocyane, L'Inconnu, Loiseau RG 7.8 Radis Beurre 7.6 Alliance, Cezembre 7.5 Pierre Sang on Gambey, Fulgurances, Auguste, Ken Kawasaki ----------------------------------------------- and hot on their heels: 7.4 Anicia, Jais 7.3 Sequana 7.25 Le Boeuf Maillot, Jouvence 7.2 Mamagoto, Dune, Mersea 7.1 Restaurant H, Clande, L'Ecorcheur, Bistrot de la Galette 7.0 Gentiane, Moussaillons, Canard & Champagne ------------------------------------------------- and if you've got time 6.9 Botanique, Bistrot Paradis, Jean Mouloud, Le Pres d'ici 6.8 Histoires, Flesh, Artizans, Le Mazenay 6.7 Les Oreilles & La Queue 6.6 XVII sur Vin, Champampeaux, Les Arlots, Demesure 6.5 Uptown, Jacques Fausset, Cantine de l'Embuscade