Monday in Le Fooding, Alexandre Cammas reviewed Froggy’s in Montreuil-sur-mer, the second resto of who also runs La Genouillère.
Tuesday-Wednesday, in ANP, Philippe Toinard had a full page piece on the winner of the Best Baguette in 2008 – Anis Bouabsa of the Duc de la Chapelle in the 18th.
Wednesday, Richard Hesse in Paris Update reviewed Chez Michel and found the staff and cooking lacking.
Wednesday, in Figaroscope, Emmanuel Rubin awarded three places two hearts: Jean, in the 9th, coordinates in the guides, where the menus now are 65 and 85 and a la carte costs 40-70 € for lentil risotto, Auvergne ham, scallops with quinoa and a chic milk-shake; the Japanese Au Comptoir Nippon in the 15th and La Veraison, 64, rue de la Croix Nivert in the 15th, 01.45.32.39.39 closed Sunday and Mondays, serving morue tartare, pigs’ feet on salad and a blanquette of veal on menus costing 15 and 26 – a la carte about 30-35 €. He awarded one heart only to Le Living Room, 5, rue Crillon in the 4th, 01.42.78.12.69, closed Sundays, serving evenings such food as tartines, wine by the glass and Italian charcuterie. Finally a busted heart went to Toi, 27, rue du Colisee in the 8th, 01.42.56.56.58, open everyday, costing 40-50 € where he say to bring your Maalox for the sautéed escargots, tartare three ways and morille risotto.
This week, in Figaroscope’s Dossier, the gang listed and described business lunches under an hour as follows:
Carre des Vosges
Le Taste Monde
Also Maceo, Maxan, Terrasse Mirabeau + Why Not.
Le Six Odeon
Le Bistrot de l’Alycastre
Also La Maison Courtine + Thierry Burlot
Carre des Feuillants
Francois Simon in his Hache Menu went to Les Saveurs de Flora, where one person had the 38 € menu with octopus salad and a pastille and the other a scallop tart for 35 and bar at 48 €, totaling 143 with no wine but two 7 € Chateldons and two 4 € coffees.
Thursday, in ParisObs, Philippe Couderc reviewed Grannie, 27, rue Pierre-Leroux in the 7th, 01.47.34.94.14, which he describes as a wine bar between Japan and France, with a 2-course menu at 23 €, menu 32 €, serving dishes such as duck breast teriyaki and lacquered wild bass: verdict – food 12/20, quality-price 13/20. In a much smaller, unrated piece he mentions a 1930’s-ish bistro, L'Aromatik, 7, rue Jean-Baptiste-Pigalle in the 9th, 01.48.74.62.27; 01-48-74-62-27, home to the likes of Joséphine Baker and Sidney Bechet serving sugar/salted, spicy, grandmotherish food with clever wines for accessible (menus =14.90-30 €) prices.
Friday in Les Echos, Jean Louis Galesne reviewed four new places in addition to Gordon’s Ramsey’s Trianon Palace’s classic cuisine: he suggests that rather than spend 130-150 unmerited €’s there, one go to L'Angélique, 42, avenue de Saint-Cloud in Versailles, (close by the chateau), 01.30.84.98.85, closed Sundays and Mondays with a menu carte at 36 euros, run by Régis Dhouysset, who made L'Escarbille in Meudon so successful and the sous-chef there, Alex Guiet, ex-Chibois, ex-Grande Cascade, who designs the menus containing items such as a croque-monsieur with foie gras, quail with pine nut gratinee, roast lotte and saddle of lamb in collaboration with his former chef. The next three places were in Paris: L'Agapée, 51, rue Jouffroy-d'Abbans in the 17th, 01.42.27.20.18, closed Sundays and Mondays, lunch menu at 39, dinner 77 euros and “carte blanche” menu = 110 euros (a la carte about 70) euros, run by Laurent Lapaire, ex director at L'Arpège with chef Bertrand Grebaut, also ex-Alain Passard where the produce comes from folks such as Passard’s veggie man, Annie Bertin and Hugo Desnoyer; the Café Central, ex Caffé Vergnano, 40, rue Cler in the 7th, 01.47.05.00.53 open everyday, running one about 20 € for a playful but affordable carte with salad nicoise, fish & chips, hamburger; and finally, the Bis-Tro Vinsobre, ex-Le Calmont, 35, avenue Duquesne, 7e. Tél. : 01.47.05.67.10, also open everyday and costing about 40 €, run by the folks who run the wine bar, Le Vinsobre, and consisting of the same menu, with meat by “one of the best butchers in Paris" –Jean-Marie Charcelay, 263, rue Saint-Jacques in the 5th, from which come the meats, including tartare and entrecote (served with frites).
In Saturday’s Figaro Francois Simon wrote an article about Anne-Sophie Pic and a Croque Notes about George Blanc. In addition, Alexandra Michot wrote about camembert, l’AOC and raw milk.
Saturday/Sunday, in Bonjour Paris, Margaret Kemp had an article on the Bistrot Poulbot and John Talbott had one on “The Corps of Discovery”.