L'Entetee - Wow - An archival review* and update

7.5 L’Entêtée, 4, rue Danville in the 14th, 01.40.47.56.81, closed Sundays and Mondays, has a cool website, a 30 year old chef, Julie Ferrault, who trained with Roland Durans of Passiflore, delivered a baby about two months ago (without stopping work) and presents a 12 € soup a volonté, a 30 € menu-carte at both lunch and dinner and a 20 € menu for 3-courses with no choices

- but I ordered it anyway since it sounded superb: a cappuccino (soup) of champetre mushrooms with a creamy greenish garlic sauce on top, nicely undercooked biche with a smoky sauce and a fondant of chocolate that was every bit as good as Colette’s negresse en chemise (the politically-incorrect name given to this recipe by my “French Mother” who made it for me, long ago, when I lived with her family while on the Experiment in International Living)

and just to keep this run-on sentence running, Colette had a great meal as well – with a “tarte tatin” of endives with goat cheese, farm-chicken tenders with a coriander sauce and rice (ris au lait) made with coconut milk and an apple tart with a “mousse” of caramel of salted butter. Wow.

Can I say more; this is 2008’s Spring, Clocher Pereire, l’Epigramme or Afaria – run don’t walk. Cost, 80 €.

Should one go? Definitely

* Originally tried December 29, fully paid. Update mid-January: two friends I trust ate there and were horribly disappointed.