Wednesday, in Figaroscope, Emmanuel Rubin awarded two hearts to two places: Le Gaigne, 12, rue Pecquay in the 4th, 0144.59.86.72, closed Tuesday with lunch menus at 16 and 22, a la carte 40-50 € for a bio egg, farm-raised chicken and strawberries and Le Telegraphe, 41, rue de Lille in the 7th, 01.58.62.10.08, open everyday for lunch only, with menus at 24.5 and 29.5, a la carte about 50-60 € for green bean salad, duck filet and homemade sorbet. He gave three other restaurants one heart: the nouvelle Thai place Lo’riginal in the 5th, the neo-brasserie Le Bis Repetita, 167, rue St-Honore in the 1st, 01.42.60.40.11, open 7/7 and running one 30-40 € for oeufs mayo, herring, pigs’ feet and crème brulee and the Italian Orisotto in the 17th.
This week, in Figaroscope’s Dossier, Colette Monsat et al described places to get Caesar salads:
8.5 Les Cocottes
7.5 Sens
7 Hotel Amour
Saint-M
6.5 Colette
6 Quai-quai
5.5 Bound
4 Coffee Parisien
And going along with the theme, Francois Simon went to the Ritz, where for 105 € he and a companion had a “Salad Ritzy and Cesar” chicken, water and two coffees. His verdict - go because it’s a living Titanic.
Wednesday, Richard Hesse in Paris Update reviewed ETC…, coordinates given before, where the dishes were good but the waiting and rushing not so.
Wednesday-Thursday, Jean Claude Ribaut was the latest to remember the riots of ’68 and their relationship with cooking, in particular, nouvelle cuisine. He recalls {as do I} the restaurants and innovators of that era: Le Pactole, Le Pot-au-Feu (Michel Guérard), L'Archestrate (Alain Senderens), Jean Troisgros, Alain Chapel, Paul Haeberlin, Jean Bardet, Roger Vergé, Gérard Cagna (then at Lucas Carton), André Guillot (Le Vieux Marly), Le Camélia (Jean Delaveyne), Jean Trémolières, Gérard Allemandou (La Cagouille), Marc Veyrat, Michel Trama, Jacques Megean, Jean-Jacques Jouteux, Olympe (Paul Minchelli) and of course their promoters and chroniclers , Henri Gault et Christian Millau, then journalists at Paris-Presse L'Intransigeant.
In Saturday’s Figaro Francois Simon wrote about Itineraires in article entitled “The Tyranny of the Exquisite” after a meal he termed his coup de coeur of this week.
Saturday/Sunday, in Bonjour Paris, Margaret Kemp wrote up the “Grand Hotel Loreamar Basque” and John Talbott wrote a piece entitled “Food Great Service Sucked.”
Sunday in JDD, Alain Soliveres of Taillevent identified his two favorite places where one can eat for less than 35 €: Alain Ducasse’s boulangerie Be Boulangepicier, 73, bvd de Courcelles in the 8th and the Japanese place Benkay.
This month’s Where had Alexander Lobrano‘s traditional monthly picks: Le Ciel de Paris, Le Villaret + le Bistro Poulbot.
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