Last (2007) November* I wrote:
Way out, in all senses of the expression.
6.2 Le Clocher Pereire, 42, bvd Pereire in the 17th, 01.44.40.04.15 was heralded by Emmanuel Rubin as the first nice surprise of the rentrée and I’d have to agree. Funnily enough I seem to have had the same meal he did, which may explain part of our shared enthusiasm.
It’s a really really nice looking place, thoroughly comfortable among all the residential and business buildings of the Boulevard Pereire (unlike the Buffalo Grill down the road apiece.) Unlike many one-man band places this size (about 26 covers), there is not one but three young men in the cuisine and only Madame in front.
But the service only was pressed when the place was full at 13h30; until then the food flowed out without a hitch. The bread looked industrial but was excellent, the wine selection fine and the coffee was Illy. Three dishes are 29 at lunch (5 each of starters, mains & desserts); but an OK menu (that day consisting of a terrine, tete de veau and crème caramel) was available for 17 €.
I began with another hot/lukewarm/coolish (is this a trend?) mound of cepes (bound with egg) atop simpler chopped cepes with sauce; absolutely delicious (ER said “pas mal.") Then I had the melt-in-your-mouth rabbit with confited lemon (which I did not get
I terminated with the moelleux of chocolate, this was gold standard or close. The crowd was all French and quite eclectic, many suits, two worker-types, two “working girls” with handler and a guy next to me pitching another spectacle on the Beatles by singing some of their songs that are timeless.
Any drawbacks: yes, 5 women smoking pretty non-stop with inadequate ventilation (but 2008 is creeping in) and it is a bit of a schlep from the Metro or bus. The bill with ½ bottle of red, no bottled water and a coffee = 45 €.
Should one go? This is a place as Pudlo used to say “worth following.”
Three of us went back today* and had another fine meal. The dishes were all suitable for a hot day (24 degrees C.), seasonal and terrific.
Our firsts included a crab and puree of fennel mousse timbale with spicy fresh herbs and foie gras toast, risotto with fresh veggies and tomato and turnip slices with a squash blossom stuffed with goat cheese.
Then we had rabbit with confited lemon and sundried tomato rollatines with feves; duck breast slices with a toasted envelope and a bland sandre with potato coating and fresh green asparagus.
Desserts were two moelleux of chocolate and strawberries with sorbet.
With 3 coffees, two bottles of wine and no bottled water our bill was 141 euros.
*Originally reviewed November 2007 and last visited June 23rd, fully paid for except for two prunes offered.