8.0 (for country food)- 5.5 (for city food.) This is where my numbering system breaks down.
La Cantine du Troquet, 101, rue de l'Ouest in the 14th, no telephone/no reservations, closed Sunday nights and Mondays, a la carte from 30-40, is Christian Etchebest 3rd venture after Le Troquet and Grand Pan and is simply great.
I went on a Sunday and arrived about 12:15 and there were already 8 persons (there are 29 places set and 2 bar stools). As mentioned elsewhere, and obviously intentional, there is a big screen TV turned to l'Equipe (with the sound off) and the walls are lined with photos of his compatriots - Camdeborde, Jego, Faucher, Bluy and Duboué with their restaurants.
There is one giant chalkboard (duplicated outside) with 12 starters, 8 mains and 10 desserts; wines are on another and start at 14 E a liter. So you know for the start he's not there to soak you.
As I was ordering, himself came on a motorcycle and joined his family and friends at a big table, clearly working on this or next week's menu, not cooking. He greeted everyone as if he knew them; maybe he does and he recalled my half-dozen visits but it was a nice touch anyway.
I had the pigs' ears that were wonderfully crisp and toasty with nicely-dressed greens and some bread that was quite good. Then the poitrine de porc that was even more crispy and crunchy, topped with a fluffy sauce and accompanied by huge portions of thick-cut fries and a green salad. I cannot tell you how good that pork was, incredible!
For dessert, on a country-roll, I had the tart of the day, with apricots and between the (you've got it) crispy crust, custardy filling and fresh apricots, it was the perfect end to an honest meal.
With coffee, made correctly serre, a half-bottle of wine and tap water, the bill was 37 Euros.
As for my score, if you take the product, care in preparation, cooking and classic presentation, it's an 8.0, but if you think that because it ain't got flowers and frou-frou table settings, has a sports-TV and provides just simple, plain-old, traditional and not particularly-inventive cooking, you might only give it a 5.5.
Go back? In three weeks to be exact.
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