5.5 l’Ami Jean, 27, rue Malar in the 7th, 01.47.05.86.89, closed Sundays and Mondays is a place where I had two disappointing meals after it opened and that would normally be that. But so many people on the France Forum of the eGullet Society of Culinary Arts and Letters, including my charming cohost, have raved about it, that I acted abnormally and went back.
On entering I was struck by how jammed together the tables were and how much it resembled Le Regalade, which is of course is where Stephane Jego came from. The menu, which started below 30 is now 32 for three courses.
I had the timbale of escargots, mushrooms and (?) pied de porc with (?) espelette pepper which came on a hot hot plate but was of varying temperatures within, making it rather interesting. Then the paleron of beef which was huge but like the beef in pot-au-feu, not much to write home about, save for the wonderful vegetable/condiment that had a spicy chard and carrots and the crisp salty bacon that made it a good dish.
I had a dessert described as a tatin of yellow lemon, but it was green and deconstructed, but quite good. The service was so good they poured my carafe of wine into my glass when it needed it.
It being game season, there were ample specials that by themselves approached the price of the menu. The one that looked terrific was a casserole of fowl, pork and foie gras.
Should you go? I think this is an ideal place to send 1st time visitors; good chow, authentic surroundings and nice staff.
*Originally published in October 2007
it is pretty tight in there, isn't it. I went with a friend who was a really New Yorker (brash). one the way out, she told the waitress that she really liked the Basque linen napkins, so she gave her two!
the food was good, too, but that scored a few pts with me..
Posted by: David | September 25, 2008 at 05:24 PM
Do you recall the napkins & table cloths at A Casaluna? I asked the folks where they'd bought them but never could chase them down. They were great too.
Posted by: JohnTalbott | September 25, 2008 at 07:43 PM