Monday-Tuesday, in A Nous Paris, Jerome Berger reviewed and gave 3/5 dots to Aux Petits Panisse, (in the ex-Vache Acrobate space,) 35, rue de Montreuil in the 11th, 01.43.71.37.90, closed Saturday lunch and Sundays with formulas at 10, 12 and 15 at lunch and 24 and 30 € at dinner for chicken and celery soup,veal and green beans and chocolate tart; while Philippe Toinard gave 3/5 dots to Miroir, coordinates below, serving a paleron and joue de boeuf, eggplant puree with marinated salmon, echine of pork, chanterelles, pumpkin and a cream pot.
Tuesday, in Le Fooding Andrea Petrini reviewed the wine bar Georges Five, in Lyon.
Wednesday, Emmanuel Rubin in Figaroscope gave two hearts to 4 places: the picture and lead review to Agapes, address ex-l’Equitable, {beloved by the NYT and many of us}, now closed Sunday for dinner (brunch Sunday noon) and Monday, formulas at 16, 18 & 22, menus at 28, 30 & 33, tasting menu = 56 €, for crunchy tete de veau, veal kidneys and rice pudding that lacks binding; then Miroir, 94, rue des Martyrs in the 18th, 01.46.06.50.73, closed Sunday dinner and Mondays, with a formula at 18 for lunch and menus at 25 & 32 € serving a mushroom and andouillete soup, pork loin and a vanilla cream and confited apples with a sable; l’Hydrophobe, 53 bis, blvd Arago in the 13th, the ex-Pearl space, 01.45.35.53.42, closed Sundays and Mondays, 16 lunch formula, 30 and 34 € menus, serving lamb sweetbreads with trumpets of death, rumsteak with a Bercy sauce and a fondant of chocolate; and the Italian Barocco instead of the Pourcel Bros Sens in Levallois. Finally, he gave one heart to {the most appealing name of a place in years} Des Gars Dans La Cuisine, 72, rue Vielle du Temple in the 3rd, 01.42.74.88.26, closed Sunday night (brunch Sunday noon) and Mondays, costing 40-50 € but with 16 lunch formula, serving a beef salad with soy and cucumbers, daurade and “a Guy’s hamburger.”
Wednesday
in the “Dossier” Colette Monsat et al presented a list of 23 of the best oeufs mayo:
1. Le
Voltaire
2. La Closerie des Lilas
3. Café de
l’Epoque
4. Petites Sorcieres, Chez Flottes, Café Max
23.
l’Oeuf Mayo.
And Francois Simon in his “Hache Menu” reviewed the #1 - Le Voltaire, especially for its oeuf mayo; verdict – it’s good, exorbitant (123.10 € for dinner for two without wine and sharing a dessert altho' it's only 90 cents for the oeuf); thus only go if someone takes you.
Wednesday-Thursday, in Le Monde, Jean Claude Ribaut wrote two articles, the first about the sauces ravigote, gribiche and poulette as accompaniments to tete de veau and pieds de cochon, the second about the best tripes in Paris, which are at Ribouldingue, but he also recommends: the African Lounge, Moissonnier, Petit Mâchon, Au Quincy, Benoît, Bastide Odéon + Bistrot d'à côté as well as the tripe-maker Maurice Vadorin.
Saturday in Le Figaro Francois Simon, in his ”Croque Notes,” wrote of the relaunching of the Mere Brazier in Lyon.
Saturday/Sunday, in Bonjour Paris, Margaret Kemp wrote about “Constant, L'Arome, Petrossian” and John Talbott wrote an essay on “Travel is so broadening: Part II: Romania!”
Sunday, Seth Sherwood in the NYT spent 24 hours in Paris and recommends Julien, Usagi, L’As du Fallafel + La Belle Hortense wine bar and the ethnic places around the Enfants Rouges market.
Sunday in JDD, Astrid De T' Serclaes reviewed Le Gorgeon in Boulogne-Billancourt.
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