Jadis in the 15th: What on earth is going on in the 15th?: another revelation!
7.0 Jadis, 208, rue de la Croix-Nivert in the 15th, 01.45.57.73.20, closed Saturday lunch and Sundays with a menu-carte of 32 € was written up first by Emmanuel Rubin, today (11-19) but apparently “discovered” by everyone else in the food world last week but my BFF (best food finder), formerly the RFC, also knew and wanted to avoid the critic crowd Thursday so we went today and there were only 9 covers – domage and tant pis! It’s a real gem.
The chef, just about 12 years old, and the waitguy, about 18, run a tight ship. The chef, provenance Gaya, Pre Catalan + Michel Bras, had an astounding idea – cook today’s best products in yesterday’s style – wow! And at reasonable prices – 32 € for three courses and wines like our Viognier for 20 €.
Is he crazy? Nope. We’re in a depression folks and this guy (Guillaume Delage) is going to weather it just fine.
My eating partner and I argued over what to order; usually I know exactly what I want but there were too many choices and what we saw being served elsewhere looked great too. So we split everything; the firsts were a softboiled egg with fresh, barely cooked spinach leaves and smoked haddock and a crème of scallops base with smoky endives in the middle and two perfect sautéed scallops atop. Did I say heaven?
Then we had the unusual chicken bits (OK, cockscombs, hearts, livers, etc) in a fabulous rich sauce with a side dish of fall veggies (turnips, parsnips, etc) and a slice of nicely cooked veal with celery and mushrooms and a side dish of some mushroomy thing wrapped in ?cabbage. Did I say good?
Then we split a cheese course and a pistachio cakey thing. Did I say over the top?
My oh my, Lordy me, as my great-grandma would say, what’s that boy doing? Well it ain’t gunna last long at 32 € for this level of food. I’ll give him 6 months, then it’ll be 48 € with 30 € wines and then the call of the big hotels in 2 years.
Our bill would have been 100 € even without the supplement for (would you believe it) the chicken offal which included one bottle of wine, one Badoit (which he ordered before I got there, naughty boy) and two coffees.
Go? Do you have a comprehension issue? Only problem – you gotta use a bitta salt to jazz it up.