The Week of December 8th, 2008
Monday-Tuesday, in A Nous Paris, Philippe Toinard, awarded 4/5 dots to Antoine Heerah’s Le Chamarré Montmartre, coordinates given before, where he loved the poached and jellied oyster amuse-bouche, partridge, foie gras and cepes, ravioli of innards and mango dessert and his colleague Jerome Berger reviewed and gave 3/5 dots to the revived Café Moderne, coordinates well-known where the Astier team has installed a chef ex-Crillon of the Dominique Bouchet era, who serves a tart of petit-gris, supreme de pintade and good wine for 55 a la carte and menus of 30 and 39 € (closed Saturday noon and Sundays). They also mention in the sidebar two places: Mon Oncle, 3, rue Rurantin in the 18th, 01.42.51.21.48, lunch menus at 22 and 26 €, serving a rotating Franco-Italian spread like veal tartare with ginger, parmentier with black sausage and Sicilian caponata, as well as La Canaille, 4, rue Crillon in the 4th, 01.42.78.09.71, closed Saturday lunch and Sundays with 14.50-29.80 € menus, where the ex-Ramalaud chef serves up marinated sardines, ratatouille, duck filet and terrine of chocolate.
Tuesday, in Le Fooding, the Fooding Awards were announced on their website as follows:
New wave Japanese – Guilo Guilo
Best haunted house – Hotel Faurie in Saint-Agrève
Best chef - Christophe Pelé, La Bigarrade
Best bistrot – Le Chat in Cosne-Cours-sur-Loire
Best little luxe – Al Taglio
Best “Station-Sandwich” – Gouter l’Aveyon in the rest area at the Millau Viaduc
Best troquet – La Cantine du Troquet
Best blow-out – Chez Navarre in Toulouse
D'Honneur - Rose and Jean-Charles Carrarini Rose Bakery
Best “Planque Verte” – Le Grand Couvert / La Colline Du Colombier in Iguerande
Best Paris Bistrot – Jadis
Wednesday, Emmanuel Rubin’s “Cest nouveau” in Figaroscope gave 5 places two hearts: Fabrique 4, 17, rue Brochant in the 17th, 01.58.59.06.47, closed Saturday lunch and Mondays, serving a 20 € lunch menu (35-45 € a la carte) of shrimp dim sum, line-caught pollack, and chocolate fondant; Le Montalembert, 3, rue de Montalembert in the 7th, 01.45.49.68.68, open 7/7, costing 60-80 € a la carte for eggs with parmesan, duck breast, scallops and fondant of chocolate; the African Le Palanka in the 4th; Benoit, formerly chef’d by the new chef at l’Assiette, old address, open 7/7, costing 38 € at lunch but 60-80 € at dinner a la carte for hot paté , fish cassolette and profiteroles; and in place of Le Boucoleon, Le Bouco, in the 8th, 01.42.93.73.33 closed weekends, serving simple, good food such as crispy potatoes, tartare-frites and poached pear on 22 and 29 lunch menus, a la carte 37 € at dinner.
This week’s Figaroscope Dossier by Colette Monsat et al, concerns the “cantines” frequented/recommended by well-known chefs as follows:
Alain Ducasse at le Crillon for brunch, l'Assiette, one of the 4 Constant places (Café Constant, les Cocottes, les Fables de La Fontaine + le Violon d'Ingres) for Sunday lunch, Ballon et Coquillages.
Thierry Burlot at Apicius, La Marlotte, Fogon, Monteverdi, New Hoa Khoan in Chinatown with family.
Éric Fréchon at Lapérouse, Ledoyen, Les Ambassadeurs, Le Cristal de Sel, L’Ami Louis.
Christian Le Squer at le Beurre Noisette, L'Ami Jean, Le Bascou, L'Hôtel, Lapérouse.
Hélène Darroze at le Coffee Parisien for a burger, l'Absinthe, la Galerie du Plaza Athénée for a club sandwich or tea, Mori Venice Bar, Jules Verne.
Alain Dutournier at Fogon for wine and tapas, L'Ami Jean, Le Repaire de Cartouche, La Tour de Montlhéry, Le Train Bleu, Le Grand Venise.
Yannick Alléno at Astier for cheese, Café Moderne, Atelier Robuchon, Guilo Guilo.
Guy Martin at Bizan, Les Ambassadeurs, Le Cristal Room Baccarat, Alfredo Positano.
Jean-François Piège at l'Hôtel Amour, Les Ambassadeurs, La Régalade, Le Comptoir du Relais, Le Georges.
Francois Simon, in his Hache Menu went to Severo featuring Hugo Desnoyer’s meat where you can count on spending 50 € for tartare, frites and wine. “Go?” “Yep.” [sic]
Wednesday as well, Richard Hesse of Paris Update, reviewed Mollard, coordinates well-known, where he found the food as shabby as the carpets.
Wednesday-Thursday, Jean Claude Ribaut in Le Monde wrote one article on making foie gras, another reviewing four books, one on game, and a third on women involved in wine and cognac.
Thursday, l’Express’ restaurant of the week for under 30 €, picked by Pierrick Jégu, was Les Terrines de ….., coordinates given before and restaurant of the week, the Japanese Myabi in Sens.
Saturday, Francois Simon in his “Croque Notes” in Figaro, sampled lièvre à la royale, (doux Jésus!) at: Bascou, where it comes with a chocolaty sauce at 25 € a half-portion as well as Tateru Yoshino’s at Stella Maris and those at Gérard Besson for 65 € and Senderens, which with a 45 € Côtes-du-Rhône set him back 212 € for two.
Saturday/Sunday, in Bonjour Paris, Margaret Kemp wrote about Eric Briffard at Le Cinq and John Talbott wrote an essay on “Ain’t Technology Great.”
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