6.7 Café Cartouche, 4, rue de Bercy in the 12th, 01.40.19.09.95, closed Saturday noon and Sundays, a la carte about 30 €, is another new offshoot, this of Rodolphe Paquin's Repaire de Cartouche, that super place up near the Winter Circus.
I've been meaning to come since it opened in March but the lack of enthusiastic reviews and opportunities retarded my chance til today - silly boy. It's great.
I'll presume you've been to the Repaire so you know the style - terrines, gutsy meats and delicate fish, no artifice, no bullshit, just solid cooking.
I started with a fricasee of girolles, I mean how can one not? They were delicious; tasty, nicely offset with a tart (I guess vinegar based) peppery sauce that I scooped up every morsel with, using his good bread.
Then I had another dish obvious for me: ris d'agneau with mushrooms of Paris and cocos, again in a wonderful dark rich sauce quite sopable,
I ended with roasted figs with cream, oh my.
(Additional notes: they served folks outside a bottle of rose wine in a cool plastic bag; they have a daily special (today sausage) with 50 cl of wine for 15 E and a two course menu for 19 E.)
My bill with a half-liter carafe and no coffee or bottled water was 43 Euros.
Go? This place reminds me of Biche au Bois under the ancien regime, so definately. I'll be interested to see whhat they do with game.