6.0 The Bistro Volnay, 8, Rue Volney [sic] in the 2nd (Metro: Opera), 01.42.61.06.65, closed weekends, is a place I've been to 3 times in as many years under 3 different chefs and by now the staff knows me and this blog (extra 1/2 point). I swear I walked up and said to myself, "has it really been a year?", well yes, almost to the day. But now the chef is ex-Ducasse, then it was ex-Breton.
Then I said "I approached the place with trepidation, whoa,.... next to the Park Hyatt, fancy entry, all suits and ties and all men, most (around us) speaking English, an imposing menu, with hefty supplements for anything not on the “menu.” The waitladies were described by Philippe Toinard enticingly and they were indeed most welcoming." Nuttin' has changed, except it's deafening (minus 1/2 point).
My friend started with the white asparagus caramelized with parmesan atop (4 E more) and I with the marinated microtomed mullet with chips of lemon rind and a really big kick of really hot black pepper aftertaste (gooood).
Then he had the bar and I the veal kidneys which I asked for less than rose but were way over-cooked with a sauce of sweet sauteed onions and sliced raw mushrooms and nicely crisped macaroni.