8.5 Spring (yes, this is not a misprint), 6, rue Bailleul in the 1st, open for dinner as of next week (TBD at TBD Euros) and lunch, probably Thursdays and Fridays, starting next week (at well, I'll explain later, some price) is in its stage of testing.
First - a few disclosures/disclaimers/backhistory: 1). We were not the first to eat here/there - we're not competitive and even if we were, we couldn't beat out couple/client #'s 1 & 2, who ate at Spring in the 9th 32 or was it 34 times, 2). We got in sorta by chance because important backers bumped us out of last night's slot and 3). It was made clear by Mr Rose that while we could write up the experience, the dishes folks would be served next week, on what days, at was prices, in what order, were to be determined (TBD). Ergo, I'm reporting on what we had, when we had it, and it may, like Bernstein's Candide in its Boston try-out (which I saw 4 times) change every day. OK to the food.
Colette and three of us from the Paris By Mouth Socialist Blogger's Collective met with the six or was it seven members of the current equipe (Audrey returns at the end of August from her wine scholarship) to collaborate on what we would eat. It was the most interesting and fascinating food experience I think I've ever had.
First, Daniel sort of explained the concept for lunch: a fixed price bouillon of the day with chicken, although pigeon could be substituted, and veggies; and a selection of something like 10 small plates, which depending on whether you were on the fly or siitting down to an extended repast, could be served family/Asian style or one by one, in portions that will probably serve two persons. His guess was that the four of us would like five plates (of course we had more).
OK. first off, a little Cremant du Jura (36 E) with our melon and lomito flavored with lime juice with mint specks.
Then a series of treats: Japanese eggplant with smoked eel, crevettes from New Caledonia (as if I cared) with fennel and trout from the Basque country with microtomed avocado slices and coriander blossoms on top. Did I say this was spectacular? No? Well, it was. Especially with the Pinot Noir Terrasses.
Then came the heart of the meal, the bouillon with chicken, artichokes, carrots and turnips, among other goodies. Now at this point, the staff clustered in back and besides the chef and my three invitees huddled and we all voted on whether it should have been served now (i.e., the middle) or at the start. Like Abraham Lincoln's reputed vote in his cabinet, which outweighed all the rest, Sofian' and my opinion was correct (at the beginning) although not the winner.
Desserts consisted of even more inspired offerings, if that's possible: an emulsion/essence of verbena and white peaches with raspberries, a tart of citron without the pastry and cherries with almonds. Again, the wine negotiated with and among the world of folks around us, a Gruner Vetliner, fit perfectly.
The finale were/was bits of chocolate that my French mother would have called negresses sans chemises (not having the Chantilly sauce she served).
Our bill was 145 E a couple. For our labors, we were generously compensated with an aged Banyuls and ginger eau de vie.
Go? Heh, heh, try to get in. I figure it'll be two years before I can snag another rez.
John, happy for you and Alec that you had an opportunity to savor before the grand opening. Looks like Daniel is a little influenced with some of his Asian infusion into his dishes. Can't wait to eventually try it.
Amicalment.
randy
Posted by: Randy Diaz | July 11, 2010 at 12:09 PM
could it be you today (08 Oct) at Spring at lunch? :) there was a man, who looked really like you.
anyway, meal was really and truly remarkable, except maybe 2 entrees, which were, IMHO, not on the same level. Thanks for the hint!
Posted by: Cherjr | October 08, 2010 at 05:42 PM
Yup, just posted today's meal.
Posted by: John Talbott | October 08, 2010 at 06:24 PM