Tante Marguerite in the 7th: An archival* review

5.5 Tante Marguerite, 5, rue de Bourgogne in the 7th, 01.45.51.79.42, was the second of the “Tante’s” Bernard Loiseau established in Paris and my favorite because of the mixture of good food and recognizable political figures who frequent it. After he died tragically three years ago, I stopped frequenting any of the Tante’s, unsure of how his wife and estate could manage them without his manic and creative energy.

So when I heard that Tante Marguerite had a new chef and Rubin gave it two hearts, I thought I’d go back. And I’m glad I did. It’s much the same as before, same nice front-room guy (who remembered me – that’s always good for the ego), same comfortable furniture, same lobbyists and political seconds-in-command (the big boys all took the day off after the first “primary” in French history) and same sort of menu (albeit holding on to some Loiseau signature dishes and adopting some new ones - recall that Loiseau’s mantra was to keep changing – ergo, he would have approved).

In any case, the start was mixed: the amuse gueule was nice sliced charcuterie and good breadesque sticks but the baguette was soft-crusted, not crisp. I had what Rubin did for a 1st – the parsleyed ham, that was so generously sliced I could hardly finish it; and dessert – roasted pineapple with Szechuan peppercorns and a perfectly cooked cannellé (moist inside, black outside – just as it and beef should be) that was delicious.

The main I had, veal breast that was rolled and cooked in skin and quite generous too, was also nicely cooked.

I believe a new twist is the variety of Loiseau wines by the glass, 50 cl carafe and bottle that go up from 7/17/25 €, respectively. The menu is 36 € at lunch and 40 € at dinner, so with a bottle of the lower-priced wine and no coffee or water, two can exit for under 100 €.

My life coach, Paga, insists I worry too much about the presence of suits and ties (believe you, at TM, I blend in), amount of French spoken (100%) and the 59 minute meal businessmen take these days (but today, not a one cleared out in less time) and it all worked well.

It’s a nice place, M. Loiseau - wherever you are, you should be proud.

*Originally published in November 2006

Comments

[Laidback]

John,
It is meaningful to me to know the date of your archival reiew, did my rheumy eyes over look it?

[John Talbott]

My omission - November 2006 - kind of long ago but it's more for my records than for your morning news. Thanks.