Tuesday in Le Fooding, Gregoire Maurel discussed the opening of Jean-Francois Piege’s new eponymous restaurant at 79, rue Saint-Dominique in the 7th, 01.47.05.79.79, open Mondays through Fridays, costing at least 51 € (their bill was 256 E for two with two wines and each having two dishes).
Figaroscope devoted a lot of this week’s issue to chocolate in honor of the Salon Oct 28-Nov 1:
Alexandra Michot wrote of the top 20 chocolatiers (listed by arrondissement not ranking):
Jean Paul Hevin
Jean Charles Rochoux
Christophe Roussel Chocolate Bar
Debauve & Gallais
La Maison du Chocolat
Cho-room via Chocolat
A la Mere de Famille
In addition she gives the names and coordinates of three new “temples”:
Hugo et Victor
Finally, Colette Monsat and the ‘scope team tested places serving the best hot chocolate and rated them thus:
1. Jean Paul Hevin
2. Bar de l’Hotel Lancaster
3. Bar de l’Hotel Bristol
4. Chocolaterie Jacques Genin
4. Le Grand Colbert
6. Bar 228 de l’Hotel Meurice
7. Les Deux Magots
8. L’Heure Gourmande
9. Maison du Chocolat
10.Laduree Champs Elysees
11. La Patisserie Viennoise Christophe Roussel
13. Pavillion Elysees et Puerto Cacao
15. Cafe de Flore, Patisserie des Reves et Art Macaron
18. Angelina, Amorino, Raimo et Carette
22. Cafe de la Paix
And in his Hache Menu, Francois Simon went to the Café de la Paix for an 8 E chocolate.
Wednesday as well, Richard Hesse of Paris Update reviewed the Café Artcurial,coordinates given before, where he thought the pluses were the “elegant surroundings, gorgeous art and antiques” and the minus that it got a “bit noisy when full.”
This week in l’Express, Francois-Regis Gaudry wrote a review of Le Bistral noting that henceforth a new Japanese chef, Yasuhioro Kanayama, exl’Astrance + le Bristol would be cooking after having gently “parachuted” in; in addition Pierrick Jegu reviewed Au Vietnam in the 5th and Marie-Amal Bizalion covered Chez Navarre in Toulouse. In the print version there was a mild rebuke of Mama Shelter in the 20th but on-line they called it a “resto-flop” and asked ”what’s happened to its esprit?”
Saturday, Jean-Clause Ribaut in Le Monde had an article about the 10th anniversary of Alain Ducasse’s going to the Plaza Athenee.
Saturday-Sunday, Francois Simon’s Croque Notes in Figaro discussed Le Petit Verdot + la Marlotte, the latter where his reservation got screwed up but where he eventually had a good meal; alongside it was a long article on 71 year old Alain Senderens and his technophilia – in this case use of a Gastrovac, apparently in use at Au Bascou + l’Astrance [and El Bulli]; which sucks out oxygen, cooks things low and slow and maintains ingredients’ colors and tastes.
In Bonjour Paris, Margaret Kemp published articles about 39V and the 120th anniversary of Aux Lyonnais and John Talbott published an essay called “Chefs Working the Front Room: A Drastic 180° Change.”
Saturday in the IHT print version, Ed Alcock is attributed as the author of a review of Rino but in the print and online versions of its Mother House, the NYT, Alexander Lobrano is; in any case it’s a nice warm review.