Monday/Tuesday in A Nous Paris, Jerome Berger reviewed and gave 3/5 dots to Saturne, coordinates given last week, which he says was full the first day and where he liked the bass carpaccio, pintade and chocolate tart and his compatriot Philippe Toinard gave 3/5 to Desvouges, 6 rue des Fosses-St Marcel, in the 5th, 01.47.07.91.25, closed Monday and Tuesday lunch and weekends where he mentions the Basque charcuterie, Toulousian nem, confited lamb and rice pudding.
And Tuesday, in Le Fooding, there’s a review by Grégoire Maurel of the Les Grandes Tables du 104, 5, rue Curial in the 19th, 01.40.37.10.07, closed Monday and Sunday nights, with menus (at lunch) of 17 € and (at dinner) 28 €, where he noted the avocado soup, samosa with piccalilli, sauteed lamb, and French-toasted brioche with fruit.
Wednesday, in Figaroscope, Emmanuel Rubin gave 3/3 hearts to three places: the Minipalais, coordinates well-known, now under the guidance of Eric Frechon, serving a lunch formula for 28 and a la carte about 40 E for encornets, sweetbreads and Irish coffee ice cream; Saturne, coordinates given before, menus for 35 (lunch), 37 (dinner) and 59 E for 6 dishes such as duck brioche, pintade and 28 month comté; and Arnaud Daguin’s Café Pleyel on the second floor of the famous music hall, serving lunch every day and dinner when there are concerts, running one 40 E for items such as a tartare of maigre, a brandade of foie gras and mesclun. He also gave 2 hearts to Philou, 12 ave Richerand in the 10th, 01.42.38.00.13, closed Sundays and Mondays, with 20 and 25 lunch menus and one at 30 for dinner, serving eggplant cannelloni, veal kidneys and a baba. One heart went to Les Quilles, 123 bd de Menilmontant in the 11th, 01.47.00.03.66, closed Sundays with 21 and 28 E menus on which appear beets, sausages and a flambéed banana dessert.
The Dossier in Figaroscope this week was all about restaurants around Les Halles and included:
La Regalade St Honoré
Chez la Vieille Adrienne
La Cloche des Halles
La Robe et le Palais
Chez Vong &
and the oldest of the old
La Poule au Pot
Au Pied de Cochon
Chez Denise, La Tour de Monthery where Francois Simon went for his “Hache Menu,” noting especially, the presence of foreigners and big portions.
Wednesday as well, Richard Hesse in ParisUpdate reviewed Saturne as well, noting that it served great food in a nice space, albeit very noisy.
This week in l’Express, François-Régis Gaudry also reviewed Saturne as his Resto of the week ; Pierrick Jégu named the Thai Kinnari in the 7th (it’s in the old Agassin space) as his resto under 30 E; and Marie-Amal Bizalion named Le Baron Perché in Marseille as her restaurant under 30 E.
Friday, DirectMatin preprinted an article from Le Monde, in anticipation of the Nuit Blanche, in which Jean-Claude Ribaut put together a list of places open all night or almost. Here's my rendering of it:
Au Pied de Cochon in the 1st
l'Alsace in the 8th
Le Maison de l'Aubrac in the 8th
Le Grand Cafe des Capucines in the 9th
Le Cafe de l'Atelier in the 6th
Until 5 or 5:30 AM:
La Tour de Monthlery-Chez Denise in the 1st
La Poule au Pot equally in the 1st
Les Filles de Paris in the 4th
Until 4 AM:
Le Tambour in the 2nd
Saturday, in Le Figaro, Francois Simon wrote about 39V, the new place in the 8th, coordinates given before.
Sunday in the JDD, Aurelie Chagneau wrote about Ducasse and team’s re-evolution at the Plaza Athenee where there’s a new dining room, new chef and new dishes with simple names and Astrid T’Serclaes wrote up l’Agape Bistrot, Les Grandes Tables du 104 & Le Saturne, all coordinates given previously.
This week in Bonjour Paris, John Talbott wrote an essay entitled Ronaldo, Rose and Rubinstein: Sportsfolk, Chefs and Musicians.