Spring in the 1st: again, but this time for real; how does he make everyone feel so special?

8.5 Spring, coordinates given before, is a place Colette and I and two Paris By Mouth pals went to during its "soft-pre-opening" week giving all sorts of free but soliticted and largely ignored advice to Daniel and Marie and crew.

Today I went with the RFC (Real Food Critic) and as I was approaching, out came Daniel himself and we had a chat which reminded me of what someone said not so long ago: "He makes you feel like you're the most important person."  She was right.

Now thinking about writing Spring up I had two thoughts that came into alliance: since he changes the food served twice a day (which the RFC suggested maybe he relax from the pressure of) and since he (admittedly) never cooks the same food the same way - I quote roughly: "When I cook something the same, I don't know why I came to work" - I've decided to post the pix and then a bit of description but 99/100 you won't see any of these again.

 
 

 
I just changed my mind; the pictures reminded me how unusual the first two were: simple, elegant, incredible - Rose's trademarks - at the top slices of a huge whole raw daurade (seabream) with marigold leaves (I swear that was what my deaf ears heard) and XXL fried gambas.

 

And then 2 meat dishes - how could I have forgotten to take a pix of the first? - a fantastic combo of sweetbreads and cepes (in the bouillon of what his originial concept of lunch would be centered around and some poached veal - poached veal, who ever heard of such a thing?

 

Then something that was a mid-station between the meat and dessert; a pate of potatoes - again quite unusual - potatoes in a croute - no wonder the guy never sleeps, he's up all night thinking this stuff up.

 

 

 

Finally, a Gagnairian cascade of desserts: let's see if I got them correctly (I had trouble even though they were told me in English): a roasted apple on an apple puree with creme fraiche, a lemon-thyme ice and frangipane bits; caramel/chocolate/ginger/cocao bean with tuiles; and an olive oil genache.  Wow.

The bill?  Well, disclosure: Daniel did comp me for some 800 year old rhum for a amateurish consultation, which I considered an uneven trade, but for two folks taking the "menu" at 38 E with a fine wine, the damage without bottled water would be 109 E per couple.  For that show, an incredible price-quality ratio.

Go?  As the RFC said "The place gets better and better."

Comments

[Cherjr]

so that's indeed was you! :) we were this Russian couple in front of you. I was too shy to check :)
still, as I wrote before, IMHO entree wasn't on par with truly remarkable meat and desert, as well as wine, which were suggested by young lady, really impressive Vire-Clesse 2004, Dom.de la Bongran (Eur 54.0)

[John Talbott]

Next time please do.
I'm really not as antisocial as my publicity agent implies - and my friends, of whom, one, the Real Food Critic, was with me, are chat-'em-ups.
Since you've read my comments, you know he, the RFC, and I disagree with you on the fish entrees; while I try not to be trendy, I guess I really do like both great raw and deeply but gently fried things from the sea.
Walk in Peace,
John

[John Whiting]

John, I've added the following to my own write-up:

October 2010 Spring has reopened in a new location (address given below). This is a review of its previous incarnation, but the infallible John Talbott assures me that, if possible, it’s better than ever. In fact, his latest review [linked] puts it at the top of his list of personal favorites.

[John Talbott]

Thanks John, for those out of the wind, John writes Whiting's Writings and is #1 on Paris Bistros.