8.0 L'Antre Amis, 9, rue Bouchut in the 15th, 01.45.67.15.65, closed weekends, opened (gasp!) 18 months ago and made nary a splash in the critics' pond. A couple I know here, who introduced me to Stephane Pion, Baptiste Anguerin and Thierry Lebail's cooking at Guifeli almost a decade ago and Sophie Brissaud are about the only folks singing its praises: A sad commentary because their cooking is some of the best, solid and inventive stuff I've had in a long time.
It's in that cool area over near the Avenue de Breteuil, which has incredible buildings I wish I could afford an apt in. The carte is equally incredible, confronting me with one of the first times that I truly could not decide what to have.
However, I pulled myself together and after an incredible amuse gueule of an avocado puree, salmon and sorbet - Wow! - had an incredible dish of wok'd chipirons, quinoa (best use of which this year), Bellota, tomato "petals" and purslane leaves. Zowie! And kudoes for their providing a spoon for the emulsion and quinoa.
When I read the carte I thought there must be a mistake in listing both the heart of rumsteak and joue de boeuf but no, an incredible hunk of beef came out with a phyllo-type wrap of the other beef; along with two huge morrels and other wild mushrooms in an intense wine sauce covered with an amborsia of beaten to a pulp potatoes. Pow!
As I had entered the resto, I was struck by the three cheese items in bell jars sitting opposite the door - must be a message I thought - "we think these are great." So for the final incredble Zap I had them: a goat, sheep and cow's cheese, but that hardly does justice to their fine affination by Marie Quatrehomme and presentation with doctored (algae was it?) butter and berry confiture. Even the coffee and sugar and cookie presentation was lovely.
My bill (without bottled water) but with the 32 E "menu," very decent bread and passable coffee and of course, some wine, was 46.50 E.
Go? Joke you? If there were a "France has (culinary) talent show" this team would win hands-down. Plus you gotta love a place that has black stones in the washbasin and two types of hair gel (for those who have hair) - firm and fever (hummmm).