8.0 Sensing, 19, rue Brea in the 6th, 01.43.27.08.80. Guy Martin (three stars at the Grand Vefour,) has placed chef Rémi Van Petegen in the kitchen and kept front-room lady Sophie Jousseaum (from its predecessor Dominique,) in this hot spot near Vavin/Le Dome, etc. and my, oh my, it’s some combo in a dazzling remake of the space.
Aside from ultramodern furniture, there is a wall of glass containing a “museum” of Baccarat crystal behind it. Two of us ate there its third day and while the service is not yet seamless, the cooking is.
My partner started with a mixture of appetizers that looked like sushi meets mezzes (salmon, tuna, etc) and I had a halved lisette with an incredible sauce of confited fennel and some revised version of crème fraiche – both divine.
Then we split (1) a pigeon (which we agreed was the best we both have ever had) with a sauce that had either coffee or chocolate and (2) veal with pasta “cigarettes” stuffed with mushrooms, simply beyond description.
Then she finished with a panacotta topped with sliced apples and granny Smith ice cream and I had a baba-like cake au rhum.
The bill = 135 €. Go back? You bet! But for how long will one be able to reserve easily?
* Originally published in September 2006
Thanks to Jean-Claude Ribaut in Le Monde (reprinted by Direct Matin October 1st, 2010) here is a list of places open late night/early morning:
La Tour de Montihery-Chez Denise (until 5 AM) for Bourgeoise cuisine
La Poule au Pot (7 PM to 5 AM)
Au Pied de Cochon (7/7 night and day)
Le Tambour (until 4 AM)
Filles de Paris (until 5 AM) for seafood
l'Alsace (24/24) choucroute
La Maison de l'Aubrac (24/24) aveyronnaise
Le Grand Cafe des Capucines (24/24) a brasserie
L'Atelier (night and day)
7.0 Chez Cedric, 13, rue Denis Poisson in the 17th, 01.44.09.03.30, closed Sundays.
Another great place, open since the beginning of March and reviewed by both Pudlo and Figaroscope, but featuring totally different food now than they had (the blackboard is correct when it says the chef got what was at Rungis today).
For instance, I had the menu (23 € for 2 courses, 29 for 3) with the first petoncles of the fall season mixed with diced carrots and leeks, wrapped in a crepe and sauced with a nicely spiced coral sauce; a paupiette of fish (4 almost fish roll-looking rounds) on top of a zucchini “flan” with a sauce that also had a little kick to it; finishing with a “struzel” (never saw that before, but Google coughs up one made by Jean-Luc Rabanel in Tonneins) of peche de vigne, marinated, I assume, in red wine and sitting on top of a spice “cookie,” accompanied by a shot glass full of puréed peche de vigne.
Superb product, superbly prepared. The host was elegant but friendly, the room elegant but friendly, the cooking ditto.
The wines were terribly reasonably priced for the locale and clientele (all ties) – lots of 20 € ones that were also a la ficelle.
My bill - 44 € for the second best meal of the rentrée.
Any downside? Probably the only one is that on the “menu” they have only one starter, one fish or meat entrée and one dessert, a la carte is a bit pricier, but I think one can make do.
*Originally published in September 2006
Here are the top restos from January to July 2011 (all are reviewed and can be searched):
8.0 Sola & l'Antre Amis
7.5 Qui Plume la Lune, Tintilou & Vivant
7.0 L'Auberge du 15 & Les Ambassadeurs
6.8 Le Dauphin & C'est Mon Plaisir