6.9 Atao: La Dame des Huitres, 86, rue Lemercier in the 17th, 01.46.27.81.12, closed Sunday dinner and Mondays, has occupied the F Landrieu oyster shop space where I had a very nice meal in September 2007 since early spring and I've been meaning to go and simply haven't found time. What an error.
They have a carte (38-60 E for three courses, many of them small or large plates) and an 18.50 E two course "menu". There is long story behind this place but in brief it was/is the creation of Laurence Mahéo, a former dress-designer, now oyster-grower, who took over the family business (est 1929) and who hired a Japanese chefesse for the kitchen. Laurence is the only person I know of, whom l'Express has written up in both the Style Mode and Style Food sections.
Anyway I ordered the enormous Assiette Francoise (Landrieu) with oysters which reminded me of those salty assertive ones from 1950, palourdes which were spot-on, langoustines which never have a lot of taste here without aoili (provided), crevettes which were most tasty and bulots which were not as good as my home-made, but were OK with the mayo provided. My guest had the lieu, which was fabulous (with yuzu sauce) and undercooked veggies, equally so.
The bill, with my-oh-my bread, good coffee, a bottle of fine and reasonably priced wine was 68.50E. This may be the prix/qualite winner of 2011.
Go? Well, Colette's scheduled in two weeks if that's any indication.