4.5 Le Sauvage, 7 Rue Roy in the 8th, 01.45.22.22.46 (Metro: St Augustin), closed weekends and Monday lunch was opened in June by the folks at 154 Haussman, chef'd by two guys that the buzz indicated had passed through the House of Robuchon. I'd read one review by one big boy, many hints in others pubs that a big thing was coming, and took a giant leap of faith against the generalization/advice of my old Masterchef pal that if "it's in the 8th; beware!" taking two new friends there.
The decor is cool, the settings cool, the greeting warm, the service abundant and the clientele coat-and-tied. But the food, John. One look at the menu and the portions and prices of the dishes being served to our neighbors told me, anyway, that this was a one-course-max place and my friends (she a teacher of French cooking, market tour guide and generally savvy culinary consumer) and her companion agreed. Besides, to be frank, none of either the starters or desserts sounded out of the ordinary.
Madame had the lamb chops that came with aubergines and a side of polenta and the two men had what sounded enticing - the daily special - rognons de veal (I think it was supposedly in a Port sauce) with vegetables - which consisted of a lot of corn and some beans. All the meats were drastically over-cooked by my gauge and the veggies only mildly interesting.
Our bill - for only 3 mains mind you, a bottle (they had depleted and not substituted/replaced many bottles on their wine list) and glass of yesterday's wine, a tiny 5 E bottle of Perrier, so-so bread and three coffees was 82 E a couple.
Go? It certainly is not on Colette's "recommended list." As I was leaving I asked my companions if they'd eaten at the Bistro Volney, which is not too far away, because it reminded me of it, it had the same feel, decor, clientele, but has great food. Regretfully "no."
Had lunch there on 27.09.2011
Great room/food/service from an incredibly friendly staff. Unfortunately the ris de veau was sold out for the day. While many establishments are closed for dinner, lunch or weekends, do NOT beware of the 8em!
Posted by: Rober Chase | October 01, 2011 at 05:29 PM