No, instead, in his July 30th piece he mentions:
And that’s the best we have to offer; outside the big cities he excoriates the:
interchangeable chlorinated salads
spiritless fries and
He finishes the article with a photo of an immensely obese lady on a scale.
Now I suppose there are plenty of Americans who think French food consists only of snails in butter, frogs’ legs, tripes, steak and spiritless frites but certainly not our premier food critics. It’s surprising that this article got past the fact checkers at Figaro or Simon’s American pal Joe Ray.