The bare wooden tables, open kitchen and warm, warm welcome from the front room and culinary staff tell it all - this is a place for serious eating - forget the frou-frou, amuse gueules, fancy butter and mignardises - we're into satisfying your palate and stomach. As they always have had at lunch, there are few choices on the menu but the price (26 E for three courses) is right and the choices adequate.
Madame, our friend the Professor of Culinary Arts, had the egg in a broth she found bewitching with shaved exotic vegetables and the other three of us had squid with a crab fluff and a puree of squash -quite exceptional.
Then the ladies had the carrelet (plaice, dab) with brussel sprouts that Colette found characterless and the men - a poitrine of pork with perfectly crisped skin, luscious meat within and not too much fat in totality - a dish I found better than any I've had in a long time.
Three of us had the great block of chocolate with an incredibly intense coffee semi-freddo and an nice ice cream; the other choice was cheese which looked fine.
Our bill with two bottles of wine and no bottled water but three coffees and one tea, was 77.50 a couple.