Tuesday, July 17th in Le Fooding, Matthieu Jauniau-Dallier reviewed Clandestino, 8, rue Crozatier in the 12th, 09.80.68.08.08, closed Sundays, costing 16-35 E for what sounds like both world wines and world food such as marinated mackerel, yuzu, meats, fish and chocolate cake; on July 24th, Andrea Petrini reviewed the Italian epicerie Palegrie in Lyon; July 31st Yves Nespoulous covered L’U.NI in Nantes; August 7th, Gilles Dupuis covered La Terrasse du Mimosa in Montpeyroux; August 14th Marie-Sophie Boivin reviewed Solena in Bordeaux; August 21st, Julia Sammut visited the Mas de l’Amarine in St-Remy-de-Provence and August 28th they wrapped up the summer with a review by Matthieu Jaunier-Dallier of the seafood-centered L’Ilot, 4, rue de la Corderie in the 3rd, open Saturday and Sunday for lunch and Wednesday-Sunday for dinner, running one 16 to 35 € for items such as oysters and shrimp, tuna and eel and kouign amann.
Monday-Tuesday, August 27-28, in A Nous Paris, Philippe Toinard reviewed and gave 3/5 dots to Pirouette, 5, rue Mondetour in the 1st, 01.40.26.47.81, closed Sundays, lunch formula at 15, menu = 36 E for items by two chefs who passed through the Ritz, dishes such as octopus a la plancha, abats, cheese and dessert. His compatriot covered the third version of Nanashi (3/5), this one called Nanashi Tournon in the 6th, serving Japanese « tapas. »
Wednesday, August 28th, Colette Monsat in Figaroscope had a preview of things to come, mentioning:
- Guy Martin Italia opening in the former Sensing space
- La Dame de Pic at 20, rue du Louvre in the 1st, run by Anne-Sophie Pic
- Ma Cocotte, in the Clignancourt flea market, 110, rue des Rosiers in St Ouen in October
- Pierre Sang in Oberkampf, getting lots of buzz
- Palais de Tokyo opening its second restaurant Sept 27
- Grandes Marches, 6, place de la Bastille, 12th, reopening
- Nanashi opening a third place and
- Stube opening a second.
And Wednesday the 29th of August, Emmanuel Rubin had his first "Les Nouveauties a la Carte." He started with a bang, giving three hearts/five to the former Top Chef Pierre Sang Boyer 5, rue Oberkampf in the 11th, (Métro: Parmentier), no telephone or reservations, open everyday but Saturday and Sunday lunch and Mondays, costing about 35 E for such items as caviar d'aubergines, albacore tuna and white and black chocolate dessert. Then he awarded 2/5 hearts to Minimes, 36 rue de Terenne in the 3rd, 01.42.71.36.70, open 7/7 (Metro: Chemin Vert) running one 35 E for items such as gaspacho with gambas croquettes, fish & chips and Trotte cheeses and to Le Brigout, 54, rue d'Argout in the 2nd, 01.45.08.05.23, closed Sundays (Métro: Sentier or Les Halles), which for 35 E a la carte and 14.50 & 19 E lunch menus serves one eggs, Boeuf Bourguignon and cheesecake. He gave one heart to the American Chipolte in the 9th and American Kitchen in the 10th (NB new policy is not to give coodinates on one or busted hearts.
In his first Hache Menu of the Fall, Francois Simon goes back to Lipp and says Go !
And Saturday, he followed with a Croque-Notes on Season’s in La Baule while Stephane Durand-Souffland occupied the adjacent columns with an article on the culinary demise of Les Vapeurs in Trouville using adjectives such as sad (twice), without spirit, mediocre, overpriced and tired.
Sunday in the JDD version femina, Francois Lemarie reviewed a Franco-Austrian couples’ place – Pan, 12 rue Martel in the 10th, 09.52.51.63.70 where he commented on the lamb-stuffed pasta, eggplant and yogurt, chick peas with spices and a raspberry dessert concoction. In the main newspaper Aurelie Chaigneau named as her restaurant of Sunday the Mini Palais (7/10) and discovery of the week and great surprise of the summer – Pirouette, also 7/10 (coordinates and details above.)