Monday-Tuesday, in A Nous Paris, Sylvain Ouchikh published an article on caves and wine-bars, giving ones that are Modern (Wine by One, Lavinia), Established (CavesTaillevent, Legrand Filles et Fils, Au Verger de la Madeleine), the Originals (Philovino, Le Siffleur de Ballons, La Nansouty) and the Exclusives (Maison du Whisky, Chapitre 20).
In addition, Jerome Berger gave 3/5 dots to the gastrodinette L’Epi Malin (near L’Epi Dupin, got it ?), 4, rue Dupin in the 6th, 01.45.49.22.53, closed weekends, selling microwavable food as well as serving real meals containing dishes such as pumpkin soup, confited lamb shoulder and fromage blanc with figs on a 15 E formula ; while Philippe Toinard awarded 2/5 to the world-food-sounding Bistrot de Mauna Loa, 25, rue Jouffroy d’Abbans in the 17th, 01.47.63.43.63, closed weekends, which is a bistro de quartier at lunch (21 E) and gastro-aspiring restaurant at dinner (38 E.)
Tuesday in Le Fooding, Julia Sammut reviewed the Japanese Sushiqui in Marseille.
On Wednesday in Figaroscope’s « Nouveauties A La Carte » Emmanuel Rubin gave 3 hearts to La Dame de Pic, 20, rue du Louvre in the 1st, 01.42.60.40.40 closed Sundays, costing 49 E for the lunch menu and 79, 100 and 120 E at dinner for tomatoes & mozzarella, « berlingots fumés » [sic] and a baba. He also awarded 2 hearts each to Loulou, 3, rue Mouton-Duvernet in the 14th, 01.45.42.29.59, closed Saturday lunch and Sundays, offering items such as Burgundy eggs, pork ribs and a brioche with caramel for 17 at lunch and 30 E at dinner and Mamou, 42, rue Taitbout in the 9th, 01.44.63.09.25, closed Saturday lunch, Sundays and Monday nights, which has a formula at 19 and menu-carte at 35 E with items such as carrots and herring, beef tartare anda financier. He then gave 1 heart to the Italian I Quattro Mori in the 12th and a broken heart to Le Dorcia in the 2nd.
The Dossier by Alice Bosio, Hugo de Saint Phalle and Colette Monsat was on restaurants featuring South-West food:
The fundamental ones
The last babies
La Cantine du Troquet
Bistroy [sic] les Papilles
And don’t forget La Cerisaie.
And Francois Simon went to the L’Abri in the 10th. He says go ; it’s his best find of the rentree.
Saturday, Francois Simon went to Gaya in his Croque-Notes, which for 80 E (not what I paid at all), he loved and called « jazzy ».
In L’Express, M.V. (he/she must be an intern to not get a byline) reports that the Japanese restaurant Kinugawa, in the 1st has been redecorated by Gilles & Boissier ; and François-Régis Gaudry reviewed Crom' Exquis, 22 rue d'Astorg in the 8th, 01 42 65 10 74, closed weekends, where for 28-39 E at lunch and 80-100 in the evening (à la carte) one has echoes of Michel Guérard’s stuff – foie gras, sole and crème brûlée au safran et à la grenade and Mina Soundiram finally got around to reviewing L’Apibo in the 2nd.
Finally, Sunday in the JDD Aurelie Chaigneau’s address for Sunday was the La Quincaillerie in the 10th (6/10) and her discovery of the week was L’Ilot in the 3rd. In the version femina, Francois Lemarie found La Cave de l’Insolite in the 11th one of the wine stores/bistros that was « incontourable ». Makes no sense to me but maybe it does to you.