6.3 Les Jalles, 14, rue des Capucines in the 2nd, 01.42.61.66.71, closed Saturday lunch and Sundays (Metro: Opera or Madeleine) has been revived by a new team, who inherited it from Delphine Alcover and Magalie Marian; so let's get the problems out in front right away - you won't get their fabulous welcome, their attentive service and their spot-on attention to detail; like the Bistro Volney, things are different. "But are they worse, John" you say? Not necessarily. The front looks the same, the carte and menus are intriguing and the chef, despite taking a smoke himself, before service started, recoiled when a customer puffed huge vapor clouds out in front of the pass-through kitchen.
I swooned over the ardoise special of cromesquis with foie gras and ordered it (despite our waitperson's suggestion that I have the nicely priced (23 E) formula which came with a glass of wine and pork with orange sauce) and Madame went directly to a steak tartare which she swooned over as I stole some of her wonderful fries. I finished with scallops that had a thick sweet (as in balsamic maybe) wine sauce with sun-dried tomatoes (I thought the scallops could have been over-cooked but since I hadn't specified that - my bad!)
Our bill, with a bottle of fine Bordeaux, no bottled water, inconsistent bread (mine had a soft crust and dried interior - hers was a crisp outside and moist interior - go figure) and two coffees, was 95 E.
Go back? Well, I gave it away in the headline - yes. And I'll leave you with a photo of a paper butterfly, one of hundreds in the air downtown.