5.0 The Square Trousseau, 1 rue Antoine-Vollon (but on the Square Trousseau), 01.43.43.06.00, open 7/7, (Metro: Ledru-Rollin) is a place Colette and I and our best friends in Paris used to eat at, 20, no make that 30, years ago.....and then we stopped. Why? Who remembers? This week however, a usually reliable food critic said it was the best meal he had in Paris recently. Alright, that's enticing. So the French friend I've known the longest and I went - she and I both looked at the menu and thought "it's pricy and the starters sound more interesting than the mains, soooooo"
We ordered two starters apiece: she began with a nice tartare of bar, cut thickly and I had an onion soup that was not my dreamy remembrance of those served in the days before they tore down Les Halles. Then we both had fried calamari, with a strange batter but a wonderfully spicy sauce; and shared a tarte tatin, made really "old school, old boy" well.
Somewhere along, I looked out the window and saw myself, 10 years from now peddling a mediocre painting and taking handouts and restaurant tickets equally.
Our bill, with a bottle and 2 glasses of wine, good bread and salted butter and 2 coffees, was 121 E. The dB level was 96.2, which is off the charts, in power mower territory.
Go? I'm afraid not, not for the good service, old décor or tarte tatin.