7.4 Jaïs, 3 rue, Surcouf in the 7th, closed Saturday nights, Sundays and Mondays at dinner, 01.40.62.96.75, Metro: La Tour-Maubourg or Invalides is not terribly impressive from outside, but the interior, replacing Le Petit Thiou, is beautiful - 1/2 open kitchen, with 3 guys working silently but efficiently, nice chairs and banquettes and stunning lights. One's impression is Wow!
The formula at 27 E for 2 dishes and menu at 34 E for 3 are certainly beautifully priced, but our eyes fixed on the carte which offered traditional as well as modern dishes. While waiting they served us some freshly cut ham (I saw them slice it), perfectly toasted bread from Breton and spot-on sweet butter.
My co-eating pal chose to start with the tartare of veal with an egg and greens and I went with wonderful girolles also with an egg (one of the new trends this decade). Both of us really wanted the ris de veau with peas and despite the hazzard of ordering the same thing in a new place we placed our trust in the hands of Jaïs Mimoun (who with his brother Yanice, in the front room, run the place) and we were not disappointed. In fact we were thrilled.
I always hate it when people say the desserts were spectacular overshadowing the rest of the meal but in this case only the first past was true - they, at least our lemon tarte with yuge meringue was spectacular but complemented the excellence of the rest of the meal.
My partner, having written at least two wine books and received at least one prize, got to pick the wine, avoiding my tendency towards the cheapos, and that as well as two coffees and a Chateldon brought our check to 145 E.
Go? Without hesitation. Warm welcome, great range of choices, expert cooking and relatively quiet (78.9 dB) even when our Yankee friends elevated the level.