8.0 Loiseau Rive Gauche, 5, Rue de Bourgogne in the 7th (the very spot where the House of Loiseau's Tante Marguerite was), 01.45.51.79.42, closed Sundays and Mondays (Metro: Assemblee Nationale) has a new chef, Maxime Laurenson, who my dining partner quoted Telerama as saying "a sacrément modernisé l'assiette... rigoureux dans la techniques, audacieux dans les alliances, pour décoiffer l'air de rien." Well that was enough to pique my interest. The daily menu du Marche is 39 E no-choice but a quick bit of addition of the carte shows one exceeding 120 E very quickly before liquids so we both went for it - plus it did sound interesting.
Before the listed items, however, came 3 amuses - a piece of smoked haddock on a shrimp wafer on a bed of green algae I think; shaved beets with elderflower in vinegar; and pieces of foie gras with tiny rounds of turnips on top (photo being developed).
Now to the menu du marche: shaved cauliflower bookending a piece of smoked eel and other vegetables with cauliflower mousse; two splendid, perfectly undercooked pieces of Challans duck with acidulated cherry halves and potato balls; and a dessert of wild berries with pistachio ice cream.
Along with coffee came two lovely mignardises; one chocolate, the other financiers.
With a bottle and glass of wine and no bottled water, our bill was 135 E a couple.
Go? At lunch, in a minute, for one of your best meals of the Fall.