7.5 Belle Maison, 4, rue Navarin in the 9th, 01.42.81.11.00, closed Sunday and Monday (Metro: St Georges) is the third of Franck Baranger's places after Pantruche and Caillebotte, the latter I liked infinitely better than the former, in contrast to close friends who think Pantruche is the cat's meow. I any case, it's got two floors and I decided it would be easier on the knees and more fun to be near the bar, kitchen and friendly staff.
We started off sharing rillettes of mackerel with lime juice and espilette which was an extraordinary riff of what could be a boring dish; then a veloute of coques and Jerusalem artichoke with Chantilly with lemon and herbs; and rouget with braised been and onions - again both sounded OK but were dynamite.
For mains, we had the raviolis of lamb and carrots, with butternut mimolette and crème de menthe; rascasse with kale and a veloute of cepes; and the sole (graciously and gratefully deboned by our surgeon-manque waitguy) with kale etc.
At this point, none of us wanted a full dessert so we shared 3 poached figs with goat milk ice cream and slices of a financier that were above heavenly. Oh my I can still taste them.
With a bottle of fine pinot blanc, a bottle of sparkling water and 2 Illy coffees, our bill for three was 132.50 or 88.33 E a couple.
Go? Unless you're allergic to seafood or shellfish this is a new must in the 9th.