5.4 Chez Julien, 1, rue du Pont Louis-Philippe in the 4th, 01.42.78.31.64, open 7/7 (Metro: Pont Marie or St Paul) was not the primary destination today but my dearest old friend from the Marais said she was not up to schlepping from her cabinet/apartment up to Belleville and I wracked my brain for something nearer - and indeed in Figaroscope, Emmanuel Rubin November 2nd noted that Chez Julien had a new chef, one Helmi Derbal, ex-Rendez-Vous des Camionneurs, so how bad could it be? Backstory: The last time I was here was in September 2006, just after it came into the hands of the Costes Empire and some dishes were terrific but the fish was bad product, nasty-nasty.
My friend ordered the formule at 26 E of a salmon tartare and veal with 5 spices (a nice osso buco) while I had the 28 E blanquette of beef with a sauce I couldn't stop soaking up with the rice, superb bread and my fork. The bread with its great crust deserves mention itself.
Our bill with a bottle of fine Brouilly, no bottled water, but 2 coffees, was 91 E.
Go? You know, I usually advise visitors to avoid tourist traps, but given the scarcity of beautiful venues serving half-decent food in the Marais, I'd say yes if only for the décor, beautiful view and fantastic bread.