5.5 Le Café du Commerce Barbes, 13, rue de Clignancourt in the 18th, 01.46.06.25.63, open 7/7 (Metro: Barbes-Rochechouart) is the poor sister of the stunning Café du Commerce in the 15th, which while no great shakes for food, at least has the décor in its favor; here it looks like some decorator's idea of his grandmother's rural kitchen and has the bums and hangers-onto make it look genuine.
The menus and carte are very reasonable and they insist the food is house-made so with reckless abandon I started with a tartare of salmon which needed too much salt to bring out the flavor; then went on to the steak with a "true" pepper sauce (which I guess meant it didn't come out of a bottle) that was truly horrible tasting albeit peppery and "good" fries, which were indeed pretty good; and finally a dessert that saved the day - chocolate mousse with crushed MnM's.
My bill with 50 cl of Petit Pont red wine, no bottled water, rather decent bread, a coffee and friendly but inattentive staff, was 35.10, so under 70 E a couple. dB level 77.2
Go? If I lived above it and there were a snowstorm, no; but for my college grand-daughter and her back-packing friends - Maybe.