6.8 Aux Bons Crus, 54, rue Godefroy Cavignac in the 11th, 01.45.67.21.13 (Metro: Voltaire), closed Sundays has garnered great buzz and is located on a street named for an antiMonachiste active in the 1830 revolution, I thought you’d want to know that. It describes itself as a truck stop place with big “Les Routiers” signs, checkered table clothes on tables so jammed together you need a helicopter to get to the banquette, with waiters who have rugby level beards and food that is straight from the 1950’s. And really straight food - no froufrou, no seeds, fancy herbs, no pretense. But it’s jampacked with locals, anglophones need not apply.
I arrived without my camera to find my eating partner already installed looking at the huge carte with every imaginable truck stop item, some in black, some in red - the difference? Who knows. Not even our waiter.
We both started with a classic - a salad frisée with a perfect egg, just the right amount of vinaigrette, real lard and young fresh frisée sprouts.
Then he had a steak tartare and I the entrecôte cooked blue, with Bearnaise sauce, with an extra of fine frites. Once again, pure classics, no bullshit.
To finish I insisted we try the chocolate mousse and it too was perfect as was the Madeleine, really perfect.
With the equivalent of two bottles of wine (they have it in carafes as well), no bottled water but one coffee, our bill was 94€ for two. Db’s a bit high at 87.2
Go? For those seeking meat and potatoes without a lot of new inventions, just like the Bouillon Pigalle, this place delivers. All the chowhounders seeking nonadventuresome meals shouldheed this.
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