7.4 Pianovins, 46, rue Trousseau in the 11th, 01.48.06.95.85, closed Sundays, mondays and Tuesday at lunch (Metro: Ledru Rollin) is in the space previously occupied by first Rino and most recently the Deserteurs, so it has my friend N’s fengshui going for it. It’s run by two graduates of the Savoy empire, who couldn’t have been nicer.
We started with an amuse of a cream of coques with chive oil and then each had three stalks of al dente white asparagus with a terrific espuma (noted especially by Le Fooding) we soaked up with great crusty bread.
Then we had the main event, two pieces each of perfectly sourced and cooked pintade with an intense sauce; more bread.
Finally we couldn’t resist thick slices of creamy Sancerre cheese followed by pannacotta topped with nice rhubarb.
Our bill, with filtered water (3€), a bottle and glass of wine and two coffees, was 114€? I did not measure the noise level because there was none.
Go? Thus is the opposite of Innocence, just great seasonal products cooked beautifully without any frou-frou. If the bunch around me is any indication (a famous cookbook author, a famed restaurateur and an seasoned entrepreneur/restaurateur), the word is already out.