Zebulon in the 1st is a place we only ate at last week but Colette insisted we return to with a very dear old friend whose brother just happens to work in the Palais Royal in the Ministry of Culture, so he could join us and show us around - the Ministry has a lot of original art, not usually accessible and a wonderful view of the Buren courtyard and Bourse de Commerce.
Our friend chose to start with a dashi (Japanese bouillon; the chef is French, from Cameroon, worked in Japan many years) with foie gras, magret de canard and cilantro that gave it a kick; her brother had the entree du jour - aubergine and its caviar plus slices of a terrine de campagne and Colette and I both had their ever-splendid quail with crosne(s) and razor clams which also had a kick.
Then the table split 50/50 between lovely slices of veal filet, artichoke and white asparagus and the pigeon royal with with potato crisps.
For desserts we sort of shared a deconstructed tarte tatin and some pineapple with sorbet.
Our bill with two bottles of wine, no bottled water and 4 coffees, was 256 E or 128 E a couple (lots of supplements to their 45 E "menus").
Our afternoon was devoted to four art exhibitions: Perrin at the Maison de l'Amerique Latine which was exciting to the eye; Velasquez at the Grand Palais which was exacting as only he can be; and the Lumiere Brothers also at the Grand Palais which was so exhaustive I think it's best for specialists. Colette saw the American Icon exhibit at the Grand Palais and did not think it was a WOW.
This was the first French retrospective of the German artist/sculptor Markus Lupertz and I was not much impressed; the sculptures were lumpy and the paintings raw; the closest I can come to describing them is a combination of Lucien Freud and Frances Bacon on steroids.
Colette spied an article about a photo show at the Eglise des Billettes in the Marais featuring the tomb statues in Saint Denis and we went to this charming old church in the midst of Fendi-type stores and bars. It didn't blow me out of the water but if in the nabe - drop by.
Colette was reading Heidi Ellison's review in Paris Update of the exhibition of "Lumieres - The Play of brilliants" in the newly restored ElephantPaname on the rue Volney (where Goust resides and next door to the fabulous Bistro Volnay) and said, "we gotta go." "Yes Ma'am." I thought it was OK, but if one has been to the shows at the Espace Electra and the Guggenheim/NY it was not a revelation.
You cannot go on the Metro or take a bus or walk the streets without seeing posters for Au Temps de Klimt, la secession a Vienne aka In the time of Klimt, the Vienna secession and I swear everyone in Paris was there today - my! But it is glorious and not just the Klimt's but Schieles and Kokoschkas, etc.
A show, intriguingly titled ""Entrer dehors Sortir dedans" by the Bolivian/Swiss artist Carmen Perrin opens Saturday at the Maison de l'Amerique Latine in the 6th that promises to be very lively. Colette and I were at the House today for lunch and saw the work on the first floor which is hard to hide, although we will be back for that in the basement. 'Til 16 May. Two if not 3 Wow's!