Another book on the death of French cuisine? I’m afraid so. But this one is by the French critic we love to hate – Francois Simon of Le Figaro.
Will you learn anything? Not if you stayed awake the last 30 years.
Why? It’s a repeat of known history and his known opinions; a very long essay not a book.
Nothing? Actually I did learn that the giant Metro store which I go by every morning running/walking/limping is source to many chefs rather than Rungis.
Is it entertaining to read? Well, I guess if you like Simonspeak laced with clever English.
Would you have completed it if you weren’t writing a review/report? No.
So what does he write about?
- That Bocuse is so 1960, Choukroun, the current fog-master
- The Fear of Ferran (Adria)
- The joke of their trying to get the UNESCO to call only French cuisine a world treasure
- The metastases of chefs all over the globe (a point made over and over and over)
- The obligatory slaps at the Michelin and the other guides
- The plague of copying of dishes rather than innovation
- The high prices at fancy places vs the solid, well priced food at Chez Georges
- The death of the good butter and ham sandwich
- Their deafness to the Slow Food movement
- The story of Gordon fucking Ramsay and the fact that the Veranda is better than his primo place
- The silliness of the “Restaurant” magazine rankings
- The deserved but cruel kicking of Allard in the shins.