John Talbott's Paris

L'Alchimie in the 15th: "A better standard of ordinariness."

5.5 L'Alchimie, 34, rue Letellier in the 15th, 01.45.75.55.95, closed Sundays and Mondays is a prime example of a restaurant that adheres, as my friend John Whiting, says, quoting Jane Grigson, to "a better standard of ordinariness."  I went with my friendly French neighbor (FFN), who's always game for an adventure at another great friend's, who lives nearby, advice and we did better than ordinary.

The menu is adventuresome and comprehensive and you really have difficulty deciding what to have.  Since I'm paying she always feels obligated to order what she thinks I want to try but I insist her choices are often pleasant surprises I wouldn't ordinarily have (like a fine blanquette at Mori Venice Bar, who would'ave guessed?)

She started with 4 scallops, perfectly toasted on their exterior, almost-raw on the inside, on their half-shells, for which there was no supplement.  Perfect product, perfectly sauteed. I had a rich, thick soup of artichokes with nuggets of nuts and a generous piece of ris de veau that I thought was a bit over-cooked but no matter.

Then she had a nice slab of turbot with an intensely smoky-nutty-flavored endive and a "chantilly" with subtle tumeric and I had a filet of chevreuil that was not (as it often is) too dry and tough but was tasty and tender; with a kaki confiturey-side and two too-big barrels of white raddish/daikon (which seems to be the "in" ingredient of the year.)

At this point my FFN called it quits, invoking her ligne, but I really wanted the chestnut creme brulee, and am I glad I ordered it; superb.

With two coffees and their accompanying chocolate truffles, superb rolls (hot, fresh, crusty) and a bottle of wine our bill came to 81 Euros.

Go?  If I lived as my buddy Pierre45 does, down the street, I surely would.  It indeed represents "a better standard of ordinariness."

Le Marcab in the 15th: Another successful revisit

Le Marcab in the 15th: I've been a few times alone and with Colette and have never been disappointed.  I assumed on Sunday it would have no "menu" but only a la carte and was steeled for it, but no, there were two - one at 25 and the other at 35 €.

Colette despirately wanted scallops (out of season no?) and I loved the sound of the four (4) course 25 € menu.  So we ordered.

The first I got was a terrific cold (actually tiede) soup of winter squash with a dollop of creme atop and pumpkin seeds and I guess a hint of mace/nutmeg but not overpoweringly spiced by any means.  Then came some mi-fume, mi-cuit salmon with an "emulsion of cepes" with supposedly white truffle essences - terrific - or did I say that before?

My main of pork tenderloin rounds with a foie gras emulsion was terrific (I know) and Colette's salmon with veggies was just fine for a salmon expert (but she'd, or more accurately I'd, ordered the scallops); no matter, the Spanish cow'll get you every time.

For dessert we secretly shared the pear crumble (I hate crumble so she helped me out) with warm chocolate. 

With two coffees, great bread, jazz music (sorry, I'm not American) and attentive service, our bill came to 64.40 €.

Go?  Please, only the front room was full, a shame, for such food at such prices.

Au Bistrot d'a cote in the 14th: The old “U” shaped meal problem; great start and end, poor centerpiece.

 

2.5 Au Bistrot d’a cote, 18, rue Lalande in the 14th, 01.43.20.00.28, closed Sundays, got a stinking one-heart review from Emmanuel Rubin but raves from two of my trusted pointers. So….., I had to go, with the oldest friend I have in Paris (55 years and counting).

(Back story: Colette and I were sitting, but separated, in bulkhead seats in Economy en route to Paris in the late 1980’s and we asked a nice guy if he’d switch seats to allow us to sit together; sure, and subsequently, he told us he was heading “back” to Paris to eat that night at a fabulous new place opened by Michel Rostang next to his primo place in the 17th. We went, we loved it and frequented his series of other off-shoots, including the Bistro Cote Mer, for years).

I entered ahead of my old pal and it looked terrific; the chalkboard was ample and the prices correct. We decided to share the pounti d’Auvergne that is commonly described as a pork meatloaf; but that’s most inadequate; it’s a mix of pork, prunes, etc (Clotilde’s Chocolate & Zucchini has a great recipe). It was great.

Then we both (I know, I know, big mistake ordering the same thing) the gigot of lamb with beans – (1) they didn’t ask us how we wanted it, (2) the meat was tough, poor product and full of connective tissue and (3) the beans almost made up for it.

Finally we had one of the best ever tarte tatin’s with both ice cream and whipped cream.

With a pot of Bourgeuil (via my favorite folks, the Bretons), one coffee and no bottled water = 63.50 €. Oh yes, the addition was delivered in a mousetrap, that’s an extra 0.5 points. 

Go? If you can figure out how to avoid the middle, yes.

What makes Ze so great? An archival* essay and update.

Why is Ze so great? Let me count the ways.

Every once in a while, a restaurant comes along that is so consistantly great, while still changing its menu with inventive regularity – that you find yourself going back time and again. In the early 1990’s, it was the Bistro Du Dome that was such a place, although it was more consistent than changing; a few years later it was the Bistro Cote Mer; and now it’s Ze Kitchen Galerie. It’s probably no coincidence that all three lean heavily on their fish supplier, since that’s what made and makes, especially in the case of Ze, them sing.

But that’s not the only reason. While I liked William Ledeuil’s cooking and menus at Les Bookinistes, it wasn’t until he moved 50 feet away that I was captivated.

I think the quality of the experience starts with the reservation taker and door greeter. Every resto has the capacity to have “caller ID,” but few do have it (cf La Cerisaie) and fewer still know how to capitalize on it. One of the countless books on what makes a good business, noted that when hotel staff-members recognize you, the customer, it’s an indication of caring and it gets your visit off to a good start. No different with restaurants. (In the spirit of disclosure, while I try to make my first visit to a new place anonymous and accept no free rides, once I’ve reviewed a place and my feelings/judgments are in print, I don’t mind being identified, as long as I continue to pay.)

Then there’s the “acceuil” which can be perfunctory or warm or resentful, but at Ze is always warm. I recall many years ago at Boulay in New York being treated by the maitre d’ like a leper, until the person making the reservation came in and indicated that I was with him - suddenly snottiness turned into relectant acceptance. I blamed David Boulay for the attitude conveyed by his “face” to the world and I hold William Ledeuil equally responsible for ensuring that Ze’s face is warm, welcoming and personally engaging (you feel the “how are you” is genuine and answer genuinely.)

Then there’s the prompt offer of aperitives and prompt delivery of menus, no fussing about searching for available ones, and prompt taking of orders. And watch M. Ledeuil. He usually stands just outside the kitchen entry, like a midfielder able to dash back into the kitchen to show someone how something should be done, finish a dish or help out when the pressure’s high, or move slowly to the front to welcome or thank a regular diner, fix something at the bar or survey the situation. Not one, like Passard, to avoid the kitchen, or Lalanne at La Cerisaie, to never leave it, like Dominique Bouchet, you get a sense that it’s all his domain.

Now, however, to what really makes it great – the food. I can only imagine the hours and days of thought that went into his menu-planning before opening several years ago or the attention that goes into the product and supply ordering weekly and daily but both are integral to the place’s success. The fish is incredibly fresh, it has to be, to prepare so much sushi-style. And the veggies and meat are impecable.

Would that be enough? Probably. But then, what he does with the basic ingredients, the spices and preparations and finally the presentation are all uniquely Ledeuil. It’s no wonder that the Generation “C,” “Le Fooding” and “Le Jeune Chef” bunch see him as a role model for breaking into the next level of French cuisine.

And all the while, that great smile, handsome face and winning manner. If Hollywood needed a prototypical chef for the movies – he’d be my nomination.

Why is Ze so great? I have counted the ways, but I suspect underpinning each is one overwhelming element – M. Ledeuil.

My favorites:

Ze Kitchen Galerie
4, rue des Grands Augustins, 6th (Metro: Saint Michel)
T: 01 44 32 00 32
Closed Sundays.
A la carte 30 €.

La Cerisaie
70, Boulevard Edgar Quinet, 14th (Metro : Montparnasse-Bienvenue)
T : 01.43.20.98.98
Closed Saturdays and Sundays
A la carte 25-30 €.

Dominique Bouchet
11 rue Treilhard, 8th (Metro : St Augustin or Miromesnil)
T : 01 45 61 09 46
Closed weekends
A la carte about 60 €

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Just a week ago today, as Colette and I were settling our bill at Ze, one of the head-guys came over and said he apologized for the first which was being served for the first time that day.  I countered that such great innovations were exactly why we came here - no apologies necessary at all - it was terrific.

*Originally published in July 2006

What’s the matter with French chefs?

In 2003, August 10th, to be exact, the New York Times fired off its first salvo in an attack on French cuisine and French chefs in an article by Arthur Lubow, called “ A Laboratory of Taste” that essentially declared French cuisine dead and French chefs comatose, rigid or at best, indifferent to worldly trends. El Bulli and Ferran Adrià were declared the new Kings.

This week, November 27, 2008, to be exact, inevitably the other shoe dropped, when their mini-Times, aka IHT, published an article by Michael Johnson, entitled “Want a good French meal? Don't go to France.” For “simple, honest cooking” he says look elsewhere, including the USA.

I read it, threw it out (that is, recycled it in the yellow bin) and dismissed it as just another attempt on the part of the print media to save themselves from the Internet tsunami. But then a wonderful friend, a real France-based food critic for decades asked me today: “Did you see the badly written story……?” and I could no longer ignore it.

What is it that the Times thinks it’s doing? Selling print papers, generating controversy, kicking the French chefs in the shins (as my friend suggested they indeed do need)?

Let’s look at several facts:

1. When Alain Ducasse, Joel Robuchon, the Pourcels, etc., I could go on, open a place in NY, Los Vegas, Dubai or Tokyo, people are stomping all over themselves as at Walmart, to get in? Why? Because it’s a bargain, because this is new stuff, because they can’t get into El Bulli? Sorry, no.

2. When the French chefs, notably guys like Gilles Choukroun, William Ledeuil, Daniel Rose ( I know, he was born in Chicago), again I could go on, travel to Japan or Spain for inspiration they don’t come home with empty creative or real bags, they’re ready to translate stuff into everyday practice.

3. The leading French culinary press pubs, which many critics don’t look at, like Omnivore and Le Fooding are already “kicking the French chefs in the shins.“

4. I dare folks to name a few restaurants such as Jadis, la Table d’Eugene + Spring or older ones such as Ze Kitchen Galerie in New York, LA or elsewhere that deliver innovative meals for under 100 € a couple, including service, wine and coffee.

So, to return to my title, there’s nothing the matter with French chefs, if you know which ones to frequent. Two nails do not a coffin make.

These thoughts were prompted by my friend’s email and my lunch at the Ducassian protogé, David Rathegber‘s 2 course plus amuse bouche, wine and coffee spread for 28 € at:

L’Assiette
181, rue du Château, 14th (Metro: Pernety)
T: 01 43 22 64 86
Closed Mondays and Tuesdays
Lunch menu 25 €, evening menu 50 €, a la carte: 25-40 €.

L'Assiette in the 14th: Another Ducassian protegé succeeds.

 

6.0 L’Assiette, 181, rue du Château in the 14th, 01 43 22 64 86, closed Mondays and Tuesdays, lunch menu 25 € (even on weekends), evening menu 50 €, a la carte: 25-40 € is the old Lulu monument, taken over this fall by the Ducassian protégé, David Rathegber. I thought it was nickel.

At the start, the clientele were all foreign speaking but by meal’s end they had tilted towards France. The tic-like keening of the four classically beautiful Japanese women on the left, who were surely models, at the recitation of the menu (in English) was counterpunctuated by the yelling from the kitchen from the right that sounded like someone who kept burning himself.

The meal started off wonderfully well, with delicious bread, butter and sliced ham off the bone as an amuse bouche. The carte could push you up easily into the 50-60 € range and so when I heard the 25 € lunch menu’s offerings, I was pleased.

I started with a “salad” of tiny warm leeks with diced spiced beef and teeny croutons that was more than good.

Then I had two ecrevisses and a big quenelle of fish with a Nantua sauce that was pretty much like the gold standard that I had at the source in Nantua and certainly better than my last one at Les Ombes/Bellecoeur.

The chef had the nice habit of poking his head around the corner of the open kitchen, much like Dominique Bouchet or William Ledeuil, to check the pace of service, delight of customers (me thumb up), etc,.

One glass of wine came with the 25 € menu so with coffee it was 28 € (they did have a fair number of glasses of wine from 7-9, half-carafes at 18-27 and bottles on up to 150 €.)

Go? You betcha; Ducasse’s aura rubs off on the acolytes.

Blue Skies and Clear Sailing: La Table d'Eugene, Le Jeu de Quilles and Cantine de Troquet redux

Boy oh boy, was I ready for Colette to try some of my August and September finds. 

We started at our new local "old haunt," the Table of Eugene which is simply marvellous for a place within a few blocks of home; the 17 euro ardoise special as well as the 25 E "menu" dishes were all terrific and once again our tariff with wine and coffee was very reasonable (71 E).

We had dinner with nine of Paris's finest food writers of blogs, books and bouquets - at the Jeu de Quilles, sampling their charcuterie, merlan rillettes and cuttlefish with a tad of oil; starting with a soup of foie gras and truffle oil; then mackerel and zucchini and fennel and tomato chunks; moving on to Desnoyer's incredible veal with incredible potatoes; three quite fine cheese(s); terminating with a trio of desserts (a berry "soup," creme brullee and "sandwich").  With white as an apero, a Chiroubles as the red, coffee and very friendly but professional service, the bill was 70 E each.

The next day, we were still "coming down" and walked in (per necessity) to the Cantine de Troquet and while watching a Basque travelogue and the chef's preview of this week's TV show (with him commenting), ate his best toasty/burned crevettes a la plancha, merlu with a Basque sauce, (again for me) the wonderful poitrine de porc with frites and the apricot tarte with a great crust; with coffee and a liter of vin de Pays (14 E) = 61.50 E - take that Bush-Paulson-Cox-Bernanke et al.

All this mind you - with a brilliant blue sky on a wonderful day - clear sailing behind and ahead -

 

Le Jeu de Quilles - What are they putting in the water up here?

8.0 (if you're a normal person) - 6.0 (if you're exigent) Le Jeu de Quilles, 45, rue Boulard in the 14th, 01.53.90.76.22, open for lunch only Tuesday-Saturday and dinner Wednesday and Friday if you're 12 or so and book in advance.

This was my second meal in three days in this part of the 14th and both of them have been quite special, quite good and quite interesting places.  Both the Cantine de Troquet and Jeu de Quilles are seemingly uncomplicated and simple but serve up astonishingly good chow, Jeu de Quilles in part because it's right next to Desnoyer (see pix above).  The chef came through Fines Gueules and has the same respect for fine products they do.

We started with glasses of white wine which with the offered charcuterie were perfect.  Then we shared supposedly small platters of cheese and charcuterie that typified the approach to good product, simply served.  Both were ample, indeed more than that.

The chalkboard has only 6 other items, but we both chose the veal which with sliced veggies and fries were all again (sorry) very good product.  Our dessert was a shared clafoutis of mirabelles and again was quite good.

Our bill with a bottle of Chiroubles and two Illy's (extra points) was 54.40 Euros per person.

Go?  Fast! They only have 17 covers so call in advance; Simon called it the resto for the rentree and A Nous Paris lauded it today.

La Cantine du Troquet - Whoa, not wow, but maybe both!

8.0 (for country food)- 5.5 (for city food.)  This is where my numbering system breaks down.

La Cantine du Troquet, 101, rue de l'Ouest in the 14th, no telephone/no reservations, closed Sunday nights and Mondays, a la carte from 30-40, is Christian Etchebest 3rd venture after Le Troquet and Grand Pan and is simply great.

I went on a Sunday and arrived about 12:15 and there were already 8 persons (there are 29 places set and 2 bar stools).  As mentioned elsewhere, and obviously intentional, there is a big screen TV turned to l'Equipe (with the sound off) and the walls are lined with photos of his compatriots - Camdeborde, Jego, Faucher, Bluy and Duboué with their restaurants.

There is one giant chalkboard (duplicated outside) with 12 starters, 8 mains and 10 desserts; wines are on another and start at 14 E a liter.  So you know for the start he's not there to soak you.

As I was ordering, himself came on a motorcycle and joined his family and friends at a big table, clearly working on this or next week's menu, not cooking.  He greeted everyone as if he knew them; maybe he does and he recalled my half-dozen visits but it was a nice touch anyway.

I had the pigs' ears that were wonderfully crisp and toasty with nicely-dressed greens and some bread that was quite good.  Then the poitrine de porc that was even more crispy and crunchy, topped with a fluffy sauce and accompanied by huge portions of thick-cut fries and a green salad.  I cannot tell you how good that pork was, incredible!

For dessert, on a country-roll, I had the tart of the day, with apricots and between the (you've got it) crispy crust, custardy filling and fresh apricots, it was the perfect end to an honest meal.

With coffee, made correctly serre, a half-bottle of wine and tap water, the bill was 37 Euros.

As for my score, if you take the product, care in preparation, cooking and classic presentation, it's an 8.0, but if you think that because it ain't got flowers and frou-frou table settings, has a sports-TV and provides just simple, plain-old, traditional and not particularly-inventive cooking, you might only give it a 5.5.

Go back? In three weeks to be exact.

L'Ordonnance, an archival* review: Is there a doctor in the house?

3.8 NNN* l’Ordonnance, 51, rue Hallé in the 14th, 01.43.27.55.85, closed Saturday lunch and Sundays, 3 courses for 29, two for 23 €. The name means prescription not artillery (that’s ordnance) and I’d read that it was the moral equivalent of a hospital canteen, perhaps in Miam, serving the faculty at the two hospitals nearby (Rochefoucauld + Sainte Anne’s, the psych hospital) so I suggested to a French colleague [who works at the latter] that we hold a planning meeting there.

It has a no-smoking room and we were all alone for 2 hours. My friend indicated that it had been a mediocre resto before, called the Auberge du Petit Tonneau, but had really been spiffed up and the carte indicated one dish called sabodet Bobosse, so I thought the chef had probably spent time in Michel Bossard’s Le Quincy kitchen, a good sign.

We had a pretty good meal; he had cantaloupe with ham and then veal with wild mushrooms which he deemed pretty good; I had a wonderful cassolette of escargots, industrial and wild mushrooms and a terrific demi-melted chunk of cheese followed by a rather banal civet of duck with the identical sauce with wild mushrooms as he did; our shared mashed potatoes suffered two bites.

Our wine (from the Sologne, near from where Quincy comes) was cheap (20 €), fruity and very good with all dishes. But back to the name; it turns out that it’s named not after the nearby hospitals, but after the street it’s on, the rue Hallé (Jean-Noel Hallé was a noted physician of his time who defended Lavoisier, you remember him from Chemistry 1, eh?,) unsuccessfully, alas, before the Convention; he was guillotined in 1794, (now you didn’t recall that did you?),

The bill, oh yah, the bill = 71 € for 2 with two menus, two coffees and one wine.

Should one go? Not if you’re schlepping from the Right Bank; but my friend will be back and I’m telling another friend staying at the nearby Marriott to go.

*Originally published in October 2007

NNN* = If I lived nearby it would tilt to the bigger grade.