6.9 AG Les Halles, 14, rue Mondetour (the old Autobus Imperiale space, which I last visited in early 2005) in the 1st, closed Sunday nights but open other days for all 3 services, (Metro: Les Halles, Etienne Marcel), 01.42.61.37.17, is Alan Geaam's 3rd place (L'Auberge Nicolas Flamel and AG having preceded it but now running on their own very good steam) opened or reopened this week in the midst of the pounding of construction around it (but muffled once inside (7.5) - which is gloriously refurbished personally by the chef, including the Braque-Picasso-esque mural).
We argued among us as to who would order what, but finally settled on a reasonable set of choices.
But Chef Geaam thwarted our intent to order minimally by sending out some champagne, brioches with olive oil and black grains and mascarpone on a noisette sable with cracked nuts.
We stuck to our guns, however and ordered only two firsts: a tartare of huge oysters and bar with sticks of Granny Smith, fennel, pistachio and yuzo and sautéed wild mushrooms with chestnuts, parsley sauce and miso sabayon. And then suddenly, appeared three portions of raviolis with foie gras, butternut squash and citrus slices that perfectly offset the sweetness of the foie gras - just wonderful!
For mains we ordered crisped chicken, cochon de lait made like pot-au-feu and a pave de Chevillard (apparently what the wholesale butches in the ancient Halles put aside for their retail restaurants nearby) with l'os a moelle made like cromesqui, crispy fried balls of heaven.
They had three desserts on the ardoise and we asked for descriptions of each, declining our very terrific waiters' suggestion we order one of each, settling for one "No cheese cake" but were thwarted again by he and the chef, getting the chocolate, praline and caramel sauce and savarin with rum and wonderfully offsetting pineapple as well. We loved each one.
We finished up with fine coffees and mignardises and on her wanderings Colette snapped a pix of the cheese tray from chez Sanders which looked great. Next time.
All of us went to their toilets and were blown away by the floor tiles wall tiles and hanging faucets - wonderful!!!!! Best of the year.
Our bill with no bottled water, much comp'd, good bread, 1.5 bottles of wine and 3 coffees, was 125 E for 3 or 96.66 E a couple.
Go? While not quite up to the original AG's level, I predict in a few weeks it'll be there.