Le Lulli in the Grand Hotel du Palais Royal, on the Rue de Valois in the 1st, just past the Daniel Buren sculptures, 01.42.96.72.20 has become a favorite of ours in the very short time it's been open. It's elegant but inventive and the staff from Chef Jean-Yves Bournot, who came through the houses of Marx and Alléno, through the manager to the head wait-guy to everyone else are stupendous.
There were two amuse-gueules, one that looked like an eclair but was a slipper of cheese bread with either creme-fraiche or fresh cheese or both and the other a soup/fluff of herring, with slices of what we think was Poncirus Trifoliata (green Japanese bitter orange) and other wonderful things.
For real firsts I had the tourte of foie gras and pigeon with an incredible rich sauce and Colette had agnolotti of carrots with safranated mussels and a poutargue foam/sauce. Then the chef sent out some delicious slices of asparagus with ham bits.
For mains Colette had the St Pierre with five flavors, turnips, avocado and orange and I had the poularde Souvaroff with fresh chestnuts - both were star-gazing.
Once more the chef sent out an extra to keep us busy - these, dishes of tiny meringues on an orange sorbet and we ended with a chocolate tart with caramel bits. Oh and mignardises, of course.
The bill, with a bottle and glass of wine, no bottled water and two coffees - and terrific bread and butter - was 120 E.