4.0 Le Gaigne, 2, rue de Vienne in the 8th, 01.45.22.23.62 (Metro: Europe), closed Saturday lunch and Sundays, is a restaurant with the same name and same chef (Mickaël Gaignon) as his former gem in the 4th which I loved beyond measure. But oh what a difference;
- a cool, discrete outside
- designer inside
- 40 rather than 16 covers
- Madame (Aurélie) nowhere to be seen, replaced by two jolly, friendly male professionals
- a huge wine list and
- prices many times that at the old haunt.
We were served amusing dainty amuses just as one would expect in an 8th joint, then my fellow-blogger ordered the cold soup of green leafy things which was extraordinarily soul-less while I scored with a toasty baked egg in a bed of mushrooms and their sauce.
For our mains we decided to go 50-50 but she started off with an overcooked, oversalted ray saved by a very tasty tasting lentil concoction and I had a good but not mind-blowing pintade.
For dessert, we again decided to order both and see; well, the mirabelle/sorbet thing was simply nowhere and the crepes without any ooompf. The mignardises were 8th-stuff once again - but the coffee was great.
With a bottle and two glasses of wine, no bottled water, excellent bread and that superb coffee, our bill was 127 E. dB level = 68.2 befitting the suit and tie 8th clientele.
Go? I've got to hear a lot more reports from trusted sources showing that Gagnon has upped his game before I return. But return I will because I know how good his food can be. Transiting to the center, especially the 8th, works for some (Eric Frechon) but not all for all (Mark Singer & Catherine Guerraz).