John Talbott's Paris

L'Office in the 9th: Challenging Ze and Spring for constantly changing and creative cuisine.

L'Office in the 9th is a hot, new, bistro-restaurant that could easily now rest on its laurels, slack off service, raise prices and downgrade products, but no, Kevin O'Donnell keeps kicking it up a notch.  I went today with two women who seem to use L'Office as their office or at least office cantine, since they've been here tons more times then I.  The greeting we got was on a par for what The Queen of England is now receiving and I was honored to be with them but puzzled why the reservation was in my name.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The firsts were impossible to choose from but my partners had the thin slice of watermelon that almost covered the plate, with feta and cucumber on top and I had the almost-raclette-like scamorze cheese with raw zucchini (remember, Kevin toiled at Del Posto), a gamba and two sauces, one tomatoish.  These two dishes have to have been two of the best ones I have and shall have this summer.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Then for mains, the ladies both had the tuna , almost (but not enough for me) raw on the inside, cooked on the outside with vegetables, while I had a starter as a main - a crisp-skinned piggy delight with girolles and an egg of all things on top.  If I described the latter as divine I would be doing it a disservice. 

For dessert, two of us had the superb strawberry tarte with creme anglaise and (I think) basil ice cream.

With a bottle and a glass of wine, no bottled water but three coffees, our bill was 106.40 E or 72.27 E a couple.

Go?  ALERT - Now open Monday-Saturday, so please do.

Le Laffitte in the 9th: Just like a 1,000 other joints in Paris?

5.2 Le Laffitte, 43, rue Laffitte in the 9th, 01.42.80.07.66, closed weekends, was proposed to me by a geographobic/ombrephobic (that is, she hates dining outside her quartier or in dark restos) pal.  She said "there's often a big line waiting to get in."  Sure, I thought, just like "J'ose" where the PSalistes, including Segolene who took her daughter to a place characterized as "le purgatoire, le paradis et l´enfer" fled to avoid being photo'd with DSK Saturday.

But this is hardly the same thing; it's a quick-in-and-out place to be sure, but just culinary/business-wise.  I went early to make sure we got a table and the place was nigh empty but waves of salarymen flooded it at two points making her observation spot-on.

Perusing the chalkboard, I was convinced it was a Metro/crappy food place until I realized that the folks next to us had waited quite a bit for their plates - that's not Metro/sous-vide stuff thought I.  So emboldened, instead of ordering safely (Margaret) some charcuterie, terrines or salads, I/we went with the peppers with sardines and lovely olive oil, which we shared.  First rate.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Madame ordered the bavette and I the rumsteak and both of us were very happy - she reveled in the potatoes, which of course, due to my faulty DNA, I'm unable to judge.

With a glass of Sauvignon to keep me occupied during the early wait, a bottle of quite drinkable Bordeaux, no bottled water (here, are you kidding?) or dessert, our bill was 59.20 E.

Go?  If you were staying nearby, as her uncle will soon, I'd say why not?

The exception that proves the rule: A well-reviewed American chef at l'Office in the 9th.

I recently wrote and posted an essay substantiating some persons’ belief that Paris restaurants with North American chefs open to the sound of one hand clapping while every crummy pizzeria gets star treatment by the French critics.

But there is one exception that proves the rule and that is L’Office in the 9th. Opened several years ago and chef’d by French chefs it was not bad at all. In fact I called it the best value of the spring in 2007.

Then the chef/owner (Nicolas Scheidt, Gregory [Frenchie] Marchand’s brother-in-law departed for Belgium and it had a number of British chefs (at least one trained by Jamie Oliver), during which period I did not go. And I heard no buzz prompting me to revisit.

However, last October it was acquired by yet another French guy, Charles Compagnon, who Le Fooding says has worked at the James Beard Foundation in New York and he brought in two Yanks, Kevin O’Donnell and his compatriot Mike, both of whom trained at, among other places, Del Posto as well as other continental restos.

Get to the point Dad.

OK, in October the culinary world shifted its opinion about L’Office and I daresay of American chefs and it’s been garnering kudos ever since. I’ve only eaten there twice but have been mightily impressed.

If one looks up “The exception that proves the rule” various sources say that the phrase is really contradictory but that a small exception proves that the more general rule is valid. So while I rejoice that L’Office has been acclaimed, it remains a shame that places like Spring, Verjus and Catherine Reed remain underappreciated.

Coordinates:
L'Office
3 Rue Richer in the 9th (Metro: Cadet)
T: 01.47.70.67.31
Closed Saturday lunch and Sundays
A la carte 16-35 €

 

Le Bouclier des Bacchus in the 9th: A wonderful feast for 11.

Le Bouclier des Bacchus in the 9th is a place my energizer bunny friend N. and I ate at a few weeks ago and when another friend suggested a group lunch, I charged N. with setting it up in their upstairs' room, thinking (1) it would be a "forced" menu and (2) the wines would be much more than last time when I blindly looked over my right shoulder and picked out a 12.50 E Ajaccio from the wine shelves, that was surprisingly good (they charge the same whether one has the bottle their or apports it.)

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

For firsts they had a pissaladiere that no one availed themselves of (no pix), green salads (made on request), a jambon persille (that was [sorry folks] the best I've ever had), a melted container of Maroilles cheese (that was [sorry again folks] the best all of us but the poor guy who ordered it and thought it was "doughy", the best we'd ever had), and a salad Chasseur aka with 1/2 deboned quail leggies (that was [sorriest folks] the best I've ever had).

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Then the table split between Bony's favorite - the veal Marengo - and pintade with a creamy sauce with the kick - my favorite.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

For desserts we again split between the cold Grand Marnier souffle (not bad) and pain d'epice with caramel (pas mal).

We started with the same wine N. and I had had before and after depleting their supply moved on to another Corsican just up the road which some in the crowd found better and others worse.

Our bill, oooh la la, the bill; for 11 persons, who all had their astounding 26 E 3-course "menu", 5 bottles of wine, no bottled water, pathetic bread, 6 coffees and 1 tea = 250.70 E, thus about 64 E a couple.  Top that budgeteers!

Les Saisons in the 9th: "The best I've ever had" they say again.

Les Saisons in the 9th is a place that I was astonished by a month ago and I took Colette and our downstairs' pals today and our reception approximated the Second Coming.  My goodness.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Colette skipped a first but Paga had the Scots salmon with horseradish sauce he declared (once again) nearly perfect and I certainly agreed; Madame and my decontructed artichoke barigoule was pretty damn good as well.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Then he had one of the two daily specials, the boudin noir which he declared equally approached perfection and Colette and I had the other special, a fine piece of turbot with asparagus and mashed potatoes (not pictured), while Elan had an onglet of veal with asparagus and pleurotes which inched towards the perfect piece of beef country.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

For desserts, Paga and Colette had the crumble of strawberries and rhubarb which broke his "best I've ever had run", Madame had a sabayon with strawberries which everyone but she loved and I had a Baba which Colette said was "the best she's ever had."  My goodness, you'd think these three lived on a desert isle.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

We had started off with a Bordeaux which Colette deemed "bitter" and revenging herself ordered a 1 E pricier bio Languedoc.  With these, plus fine bread and butter, no bottled water but four coffees our bill per couple was 96 E.

L'Office in the 9th: Another (successful) American in Paris.

Gene Kelly has nothing on Kevin O"Donnell at L'Office in the 9th; he's landed on the ground of the 9th running and has been getting great reviews since I came here October 31st with Paris' most successful Yankee cook.  It's a joy and pleasure to see (PS Everyone today at lunch except for our table was Francophonic and the joint was jumping and full).

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Two of us started with the white and green asparagus with a soft-boiled egg and I had a carpaccio of turbot with EVOO, melon (were they?) balls, sliced giant radishes (I think) and other veggies  with an avocado puree - quite fine all.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

For mains, two of us had the chicken with (get this, crisp'd croutons & pureed chicken livers), parsnips and other veggies; and the other two had the veal butts with pois, advertised as petit but really quite grand, and carrots. Colette thought the chicken was outstanding!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

For desserts we shared a panna cotta with mango cubes and a financier with pear, nuts and a caramel sauce.  Again, quite nice.

Our bill with two bottles of a Cotes du Rhone, a bottle of their own filtered water, fine bread and four coffees was 157.20 E, thus 78.60 E a couple.

Le Bouclier de Bacchus in the 9th: A three-point Jeremy Lin shot.

6.6 Le Bouclier de Bacchus, 18, rue Saint-Lazare in the 9th, 01.48.74.94.99 (Metro: ND de Lorette) is a place my Chinese-American friend who lives nearby and insists on eating at nearby places, found, and since her name is but one consonant shy of the Haavaad/Knicks phenom, I suggested she get her name changed to be more recognizable.  The place advertises itself as - Caviste (A Table Ou A Emporter Votre Bouteille Reste Toujours Au Meme Prix), Tables D'Hotes, Rugbyman & Independant - now how can you not love a joint that says that?

I was taking a pix of the carte outside when my almost famous friend pulled up and we both loved the carte.  We entered and regarded the bar and chalkboard around it but

the wait lady arrived and said she was the carte and rattled off the choices.

 

 

 

 

 

 

She chose the terrine with foie gras, which, contrasted with others I have known, was not overpowered by the foie gras but gutsy and full of oomph; and my three charcuteries - a spicy chorizo, spicy sausage and andouillette 5A (of course), contrasted with others I have known in wine bars/etc. - were on another level - we asked where they were from, "nearby maybe?"  Nope, out of town.  Damn!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

We both had delicious chicken dishes but very different preparations; hers in Grandma's style (not hers nor mine but somebody's); while I had what was called a fricassee but should have been subtitled heavenly and spicy - it was 5 Wows!

We both ended with a cold Grand Marnier souffle, again quite special.

Our bill, with a bottle of 12.80 E Ajaccio (they meant what they said about the prices), no bottled water, decent bread and two coffees was 60 E.

Go?  I cannot wait to bring Colette back in a couple of weeks.

La Classe in the 9th: Surprisingly good, packed and fun.

5.9 La Classe, 6, rue de Maubeuge in the 9th (Metro: Notre Dame de Lorette) is one of those "theme" restaurants where the theme really works.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Everything from the maps on the wall, copy books of menus and wine lists, inkwells for water glasses and swings in the basement remind you of school, places like the Cafe Cache in the old city mortuary and the 2006 book "Cantines : Recettes cultes corrigées par les chefs" by Sebastien Demorand, Emmanuel Rubin and Sophie Brissaud.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

My guest, who actually is quite familiar with the citation above ordered the very nice eggplant caviar with poached egg and I had "All about langoustines" which turned out to be an incredible langoustine bisque with one sauteed/placha'd langoustine on a thin slice of toasted bread.

Then we did what I always counsel myself, friends and co-diners never, ever, to do - order the same thing - but bingo - luck was on our side and the daube of beef was terrific, with a rich red wine sauce and smoky bacon which totally wrapped the eating experience in pure pleasure. I neglected to photo the three scoops of ice cream (vanilla, fresh milk and basil) but they were a fitting finale to a fine find.

Our bill with good bread, no bottled water, a bottle of Corsican wine and two coffees and, and, and, just to remind you of school - a Carambar - was 72 E.

Go?  Oh yes.

 

Les Saisons in the 9th: My goodness, my gosh, my golly.

6.9 Les Saisons (cool logo eh?), 52 (not 2 as A Nous Paris has it) rue Lamartine in the 9th, (the old great Villa Victoria space, before that the awful Velly location), 01.48.78.15.18, closed Sundays and Mondays, is a place under the direction of Jonathan Lutz who had chef'd at Glou, which I liked not at all, versus everyone else in the world of food criticism, and

has lunch formulas at 15 and 20 E as well as running one about 35 E a la carte for many more selections.  My newest dining partner and I sort of mixed and matched and didn't do badly at all.  I should note that nothing Philippe Toinard mentioned in his ANP article, only January 10th, was apparent today, which is a very good sign indeed.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Madame my new friend, had the ardoise leek salad with vinaigrette and I a small but perfectly cooked chunk of duck foie gras on a bed of Jerusalem artichoke puree - both damn good.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

She then had the cod with a crackling crispy crust in broth and I the pigeon with both forcemeat and foie gras again - both came with many vegetables and (for me) too many potatoes.  Both dishes were way above standard quality and miles above the stuff we'd had at Glou just 3 years ago January.

With extremely fine bread, 2 quite good coffees, a nice Loire red and no bottled water or dessert, our bill came to 89.90 E - which (full disclosure) she picked up under the impression that she had invited me, even though I picked the day and restaurant.

Go?  You bet.

Les Affranchis in the 9th: Still solid albeit not dazzling.

Les Affranchis in the 9th is a place I considered "Another fine neighborhood bistrot" 3 weeks ago and couldn't wait to bring Colette.

The ardoise was quite similar and the prices not yet elevated.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Our friend, my former co-host at eG, ordered the oeuf mollet meurette (which sauce was spectacular) and I boringly repeated the foie gras I had last time, this time with a different chutney (onion rather than citrus).

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Then we diverged: Colette having the cod with a superb frothy cream of fennel over and fennel under; P. had the blanquette of joue de pork, very soft; and I repeated the thick slice of calves liver with onion and roasted garlic.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

We finished up with a rice pudding Colette found not flavorful (I'm not able to judge them) but my chocolate pot which consisted of hard, soft and creamy chocolate all together was a wonder.

With a bottle and glass of wine, Illy coffee, terrific bread and a chocolate nummie at the end or bill was 124.50 E = 83 E a couple.

Go?  If only to see what happens to a friendly/welcoming Spring alum in the front room.