John Talbott's Paris

Les Premices is as promising as my first visit.

 

 

 

 

 

I had been so taken by Les Premices and its wonderful chef last month that when to friend-diners suggested we go back I jumped.  We had two amuses: a mint cream with celery and what I swear was monkfish but without a scream from Colette must have been cod.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

For firsts M. Anonymous had the asparagus four ways and I had a delicate Thai soup with rolled-up almost Japanesey wrapped bits of lobster.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The women then had the Landes farm chicken and the guys the daily special - crispy outside sweetbread with artichoke hearts and peas that were in between ptit and gross - all just fine, thank you.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

We finished up with a cheese platter and two rice puddings with caramel (Colette declared hers "one of the best ever."

Our bill, with 2 coupes of champagne, 2 bottles and 2 glasses of wine, no bottled water but 3 coffees was 252 E, but taking away the champagne, it would have been more like 112 E a couple.

Charlot, Le Roi des Coquillages in the 9th: Open May Day.

5.0 Charlot, Le Roi des Coquillages, 81, Blvd de Clichy in the 9th, 01.53.20.48.00, open 7/7 hasn't changed a bit since our gang went there in the 1980's on "cook's night off."  Elegant, reasonable prices and stunning decor.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

One of our friends had already busted her chops trying to find a restaurant she needed to review for a guidebook she was contributing to, that was open May 1st and after about 7 places - gave up.  When the gang suggested Charlot last night at supper I put up a brief fight:  "Remember my last time - the grand aioli? It was awful"  "But, John, the only thing to order is the bouillabaisse."  Full stop.  "OK"  So aside from an amuse bouche of tomato soup, that sure tasted like store-bought pasta sauce, with parmesan, topped with a large glob of creme fresh, that's what we had, and lots of it.

With two bottles of Muscadet, no bottled water and three coffees, our bill came to 88.74 E a couple.

Go?  Under the circumstances yes, despite the ever mounting decibel level (at 79.2 dB I quit) but on our way home I saw that both Lui L'Insolite and Le Cafe Qui Parle were open, so next May Day, that's where we'll be headed.

Premices in the 9th: Wow! One more for Colette in April.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

7.5 Premices, 24 rue Rodier in the 9th (Metro: St-Georges, easier by #85 bus though), 01.45.26.86.26, closed weekends and lunch Mondays, has been open 3 months but hardly caused a ripple, which is amazing since chef Alexandre Weill has an amazing cv; HEC School of Management; VP Morgan Stanley (Paris & London); then saw the light and followed his passion to the Ecole Ferrandi, the Restaurant du Marché, Ambroisie, Apicius, Bigarrade, the Ritz and Troisgros and cooks amazing food.  The menu looks familiar and the prices not so easy but choices are difficult to make.

 

The amuse gueule was a glass with a base of celery puree with a touch of mustard grains on top of which was a small but beautiful piece of cod (cod was also on the 24 E "menu"); my Food Goddess Friend who's eaten everywhere, ordered the declinaison of green asparagus (done 4 ways: with fleur de sel, nuts, sauce and some other way I couldn't distinguish) which she thought was over-cooked but since she gave me the ends not the tips to sample - was perfect; and I had a sauteed lobe of foie gras with a puree of carrots with a touch of curry - superb.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

For mains she had the lobster, potatoes and teeny-tiny mushrooms, which I tried to discourage her from having after my Lobster Roll disappointment yesterday, but was I proven wrong; and I had the duck pithiviers, which the charming waitress had made sure I understood was a tarte (having read the Bluffing for Dummies book I was ready for anything) that came with fingers of winter vegetables - wunnerful, except I thought several dishes had a tad too much salt.  We finished by sharing a Paris-Brest, which she, a Paris-Brest expert declared very good (I agreed but not because I'm an expert, just because it was good).

With wonderful bread, a bottle of Cotes du Rhone Villages and two coffees, our bill was 110 E which I think was too little but maybe M. Weill comp'd us after engaging us thusly in French: "So, am I hearing an Anglo-Saxon accent."  "Oh, oh, a horrid one?"  "No, no, very light."  And then commenced to speak in "London City" English about his two careers."  Very personable chap indeed and a great chef.

Go?  It's on Colette's list, a definite "must."  And a dB level of 75.1 despite stark walls and ceiling.

La Regalade Convervatoire in the 9th: Not as gutsy as the first two but some unexpected flavors.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

5.8 La Regalade Conservatoire, 7-9 rue du Conservatoire in the 9th (Metro; Grandes Boulevards), 01.44.83.83.60, closed Saturday lunch and Sundays is sited in the newly renovated Nell Hotel and the decor is Wilmotte dazzling.  It conforms to Doucet's formula of 3 dishes for 35 E - albeit there are several specials calling for 4-10 E supplements - plus his (and to give him credit - Yves Camdeborde's) great crusty bread, terrine a volunte and madeleines book-ending the meal.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I started with the black (from squid ink) risotto, wonderful roast gambas and an emulsion of Vache Qui Rit (I'm not kidding) diminished a notch by some (unnecessary), over-smoky espilette; then moved on to the half-salty cod a la plancha with chopped veggies and (again, I'm afraid) an unnecessary shellfish sauce as well as pistachio topping; and ended with the Grand Marnier souffle which thankfuly he didn't mess with the standard version thereof.

With some glasses of Reuilly, no bottled water, but a coffee, my bill was 57 E.

Go?  As F.  Simon says "Once, you must," but please reserve a week in advance (they were turning people away) and don't expect it to be populated with locals, it's already been discovered by our Yankee bretheran and Japanese eaters.  And don't expect a gutsy repetition of the old original in the 14th or somewhat more refined St Honore version, to my taste-buds he's gone a bit over the top with #3.

Le Caviste Bio in the 9th; Really cool wines; some OK food.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

5.2 Le Caviste Bio, 50, rue de Maubeuge in the 9th, (Metro: Cadet), 01.48.78.30.03, open everyday for wine and dinners for food but only on Fridays for lunch is a place Dominique Bry (the wines) and Junko Kawasaki (food) opened with the intent of being 100% bio, bread included.  I arrived early seeking a table for two (there's a big Table d'Hote in the front for 12, but only on going to the toilet realized they did have tables in a second room - oh well); anyway, while waiting for my companion, I had a wonderful glass of Muscadet (3.50 E) and heard our gracious host explain his mission, etc., to the two others already seated.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

My "date" started with mussels in white wine cooked en papillote but in aluminum and I had an (unpictured) mini-cocotte of rillettes of tuna whose spice kicked in big time with the second bite on the superb bread.  Then she had the merlan meuniere and I the pork with ginger; both OK but my pork, almost microtomed in the Japanese style was almost like thin  bits of veal.  Both came with plenty or rice and greens.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

We shared the fondant of chocolate with ice cream and finished off our bottle of Saumur Champigny.

With 2 coffees our bill was 62.50 a couple.

Go?  Tough call.  For the wines, for sure; for the food, I dunno'.

Mamou in the 9th: Another fine place in the 9th; it's becoming a culinary Boboville.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

6.1 Mamou is a city in Louisiana, a Cajan band and a song as far as I can tell, but it's also a new restaurant in the 9th (and therein lies a tale*) at 42, rue Taitbout, 01.44.63.09.25, closed Saturday lunch, Sunday and Monday dinner.  *The tale involves the Queen of Paris Feng Shui, who prefers to lunch within walking distance of her flat/atelier in the 9th, which suits me just fine since the 9th is exploding with what the Wall Street Journal failed to recognize in its article on December 10-11th, 2005, on “Trendy….New ‘Hood”'s as a bursting new resto scene.

In any case, not only the Queen and I but her hard working husband, who hardly ever joins us for lunch, settled on Mamou when I told them the chef Romain Lalu had passed through the houses of Lasserre and Camdeborde.  And we started off on the right foot; he having a terrine of queue de boeuf and foie gras, delicious; she a tartare of herring and beets (long on the beets, short on the fish); and I a perfect soup for a freezing day - crushed peas with crisped bacon bits - Yum!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Then M. had the onglet of beef with uncooked endives livened up with a raspberry/sherry sauce; Mme had the fish of the day - a piece of grondin - that while usually used in soups such as bouillabaisse, stood by itself very well indeed with some wild mushrooms and assorted vegetables; and I had what was the winner in my mind, a gremolatta of veal cheeks - soft, tasty and perfecly paired with purees of spinach and potatoes. 

At this point M. and I called it quits but Madame still had some room left and ordered what was the super-hit of this day, a ganache of speculos (never seen/heard of such before) with a jelly of intense coffee and chantilly nuage - Wow!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

From their nice wine list (they do say outside "bar a vins") we had a fine bottle of Luberon Ch. La Canorgue. which with a glass of Pinot Grigio and no coffee (they were off to their publisher) amounted to 90.33 E a couple.

Go?  You bet, in a flash; I see Glory for Romain Lalu; catch a rising star.

 

Le Flamboire in the 9th: Carnivores queue up.

 

6.4 Le Flamboire, 54, rue Blanche in the 9th, 06.95.01.77.38, closed Sunday (Metro: equidistant from Blanche and Pigalle) opened 2 January and was, according to its genial patron, master rotisseur and host, Jean-Yves Chesneau, only discovered by Francois-Regis Gaudry 2 weeks later when he stumbled out of the horrible 2 inch snow (take that Colorado and Siberia) and wrote it up in L'Express Styles.

Vegans, vegetarians and others with serious concerns about their arteries, despite the three crustacean and fish dishes, should probably avoid it, but for those of us who will believe in Fame's "I'm gonna live forever," this is Carnivore-Central - right up there with but a bit after Severo, Bis, Les Quilles, Le Meating, etc, etc.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

We started with three "naturals" for boys eating out before the ballet - a multo-superior salade Flamboire of toasted bread, warmed goat cheese and chorizo (I think) - I mean really superior; foie gras and terrific bread; and a terrine Flamboire, which suited me just fine.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Then, showing us that all their products were nickel, they served us up top-of-the-line pork, beef (filet) and lamb (3 chops) with, oh my gosh, incredible potatoes, very differently flavored cornichons with herbs (not your Monoprix variety), 3 sauces (ciboulette and creme fraiche, something only my buddy Randy D. could identify and cauliflower in a creamy but not cream sauce).

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

At this point I called for a cessez-le-feu or cessation des hostilités (which is correct, I dunno?) but my buddies, who were eating like they'd just arrived from Romania (inside joke), hadda have dessert - thus a creme thing with red fruits and a chocolate fondant which M. Chesneau immediately declared insufficiently fondant (which it was) and commanded a second - which was.

With 1.5 bottles of Faugeres, 1 coffee, very, very decent bread and both an extra fondant and digestif (offered because M. was so sympa about my leaving my friend sitting here yesterday while I was sitting 1000 meters away) our bill per couple would truly be 109.33 E.

Go?  Oh my; if you want superior product, cooked on the grill exquisitely, and served with a dash of pride and provenance - this is your spot.  Plus the NYT hasn't figured it out yet.

L'Atelier Rodier in the 9th: It's hard for me to come to a decision on this one; puzzling.

5.1 L'Atelier Rodier, 17, rue Rodier in the 9th, 01.53.24.90.94, closed weekend for dinner and some weekday lunches, is a place that has been bumping through my cranium because it sounded like it could really be a hit and a not a faraway one at that.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I made three reservations in the 9th this week and told several friend-dining-companions, but as memory, age and jet-lag would have it, I conflated at least two.  I should have realized this when I showed up at the Atelier and thay had no rez but seemed to recall my name and seated me despite being fully booked (and later turned 3 tables).  I waited, scoped the menu (18 E), waited and finally ordered, figuring my "date" was ill (which he, at the other resto I had reserved at, thought as well.  The amuse-bouches were a nice tapenade on hard/soft toast with an almost honeyish sweet butter and a veloute of chestnuts and foie gras.  Good but not perfect.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

For a first I chose croustillant langoustines on swooshes of carrots and cress; for a main, a merlan, I was told fried in the classic manner, with fritecut veggies and grapefruit (huh?); and for dessert a financier with whipped cream, caramel (supposedly but couldha fooled me) and chopped pineapple.  In all cases, the central ingredient/s - langoustines, merlan and financier - was/were quite good product/s and tasty, but the stuff around it somehow didn't complement or augment it/them.  I got the sense that these two talented chefs from Congo and Columbia, whom Alexander Lobrano indicates passed through the houses of "Robuchon, the Bristol, the Westminster and the Plaza Athenee,...the Raphael and Guy Martin" thought that these swooshes and add-ons were classy but I found them an inferior distraction.

With pretty poor bread, 1/2 bottle of wine, no bottled water and an OK coffee my bill was 54 E (dB level seemed higher that 75.5 recorded too).

Go?  If Colette hasn't got too much on hier dance-card next visit, I'd like her to try it.

Le Martel in the 9th: Metro Food + Truffle Oil Spray = Yech.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

1.0 (for the bread, fries and wine) Le Martel, 3, rue Martel in the 9th, 01.47.70.87.56, Metro: Chateau d'Eau, is a place found by my great friend, the Chinese agitator, as a back-up for Restaurant Blah-Blah a few feet away when it didn't answer the phone.  It looks like a thousand other crummy bistros circa 1950, with 9 confusing "menus" and a carte full of couscous and tagines.  I entered before her and thought I must be in the wrong place, so I went up & down the street and saw nothing else except the place next door - the Soul Kitchen - hummmm, maybe we should'ave gone there.  But no, she assured me, reliable sources (whom she's never actually eaten with) reported it was good, it looked good to her and it was listed in Zagat's.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

We ordered salads that looked and tasted suspiciously like the same, except my (out of season) asparagus was double the price of her lentils - but both had this strange taste - what was it?  Where is Randy nowthat I need him?

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

For mains, she had the magret and I the sweetbreads and you know what - they looked and tasted suspiciously like the same, except my dish was double the price of hers - but both had this strange taste - what was it?  Got it?  Truffle oil spray; yech!  To give them their due, despite the braised endives being subordinary, the fries, wine and bread were quite good.

Our bill = 83 E - What?  For a meal 0001% the quality of that at 6 Paul Bert.  A shanda.

Go?  I'm may have been trained as a psychiatist but they didn't teach me why locals would go to a place like this with this level of food - plus there was no door-knob on the exit door from the toilet.

Richer in the 9th: Lovely food, lousy photos.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

5.5 Richer, 2 Rue Richer in the 9th, 01.48.24.44.80, open 8-1 AM 7/7 is the sort of bar/cafe/bistro everyone wants on his corner.  Especially on a cold, snowy, icy day.  It's the brainchild of Charles Compagnon, of L'Office across the street and a welcome addition to a quickly growing food area in a previously strange area.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

They have about 4 entrees, 4 mains and 4 desserts which are nicely spread across the food chain.  My dining pal, a former food critic in Paris who left for love a year ago, had a very nice soft egg in a soup of mustard-flavored corn - interesting eh?  And I had marinated salmon trout with shaved teeny tiny veggies that were equally tempting.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

For mains, my friend had confited lamb which I think was sort of a parmentier and I had nice files of duck withe beets and nougatines of mole, if you know what I mean.

With a bottle and glass of Combier Crozes, 2 coffees and no desserts or bottled water, our bill was 92.60 E.

Go?  As I said, I wish I had one like this on my corner.  Decibel level 69.2 at the start but exceeded the acceptable range at the end of the meal.

PS Apologies for the washed-out pix, long story, but thanks to Paga and Elan for useof their hi-speed internet connection while Freebox/France Telecom figure out how to get to the 21st Century.