6.0 Panache, 1 rue Geoffroy-Marie in the 9th, 01.47.70.85.87, closed Sundays, is located in an old Jewish bakery in this section of the 9th that a pair/couple of translators I know, knew from a past era. Next door is the Hotel Panache, formerly the Hotel Madrid, and the bakery was taken over by David Lanher, the restaurateur behind Racines, Racines 2, Racines New York, Caffé Stern and Le Bon Saint-Pourçain and is eye-poppingly new. My friends prefer to walk to and from lunch and work before and afterwards, so I keep a separate list of places for us in which to dejeune. We did a little bit of negotiating over what to choose, as the place began to fill with hipsters and Bobo's and geeks, whom my friends tell me have become overlapping categories - anyway sitting at the comptoir eating with brilliant red headphones on, surely puts you in at least one of them.
So, one of us started with the carpaccio of cooked veal with a sweet cream of anchovies and red beets; her husband had the soft egg with ail des ours ("Allium ursinum – known as ramsons, buckrams, wild garlic, broad-leaved garlic, wood garlic, bear leek or bear's garlic.....a wild relative of chives native to Europe", sez Wikipedia), watercress and bacon; and I had the warm lentils with mackerel and an orange Bergamote sauce; all quite nice.
As mains one of us had and shared the pork ribs with BBQ sauce and the other two had terrific pieces of cod, cooked to perfection - oddly the chef Paul Landre (whom we later learned was American, but perhaps not from a state where BBQ is done low and slow), cooked neither the leeks nor ribs til they were supple. For finals we shared one portion of a terrific almond cake with confited pears and a tarte of seasonal fruits.
Our bill, with a bottle and glass of Foulards Rouges, two coffees and average bread, was 113.00 E or 75.33 E a couple. dB= 88.1
Go? This is a tough call. I'd say given the locovore slant, good producers and mixture of flavors - yes, and I trusted the waiter when he told us the chef had taken our comments to heart.