John Talbott's Paris

Reviews of reviews: The week of June 10th, 2013

Monday-Tuesday in A Nous Paris, Jerome Berger reviewed and gave 3/5 dots to Le Cette, coordinates in the 14th given before and Philippe Toinard gave 3/5 to the previously mentioned Les Climats in the 7th.

Tuesday, Matthieu Jauniau-Dallier in Le Fooding, reviewed Frenchie To Go, another offshoot of  Frenchie at 9, rue du Nil in the 2nd, closed Sundays and Mondays,  running one 16-35 E for sandwiches and hot dogs as well as fish and chips.

On Wednesday, in Figaroscope, Emmanuel Rubin reviewed his usual five new restaurants, giving 2 hearts to four places:  the H. Kitchen, coordinates given before, mentioning the vegetables and foie gras, merlan and mango-chocolate parfait; the cantine Nano, 14, rue Bachaumont in the 2nd, no telephone, closed weekends, costing 10 E for four glasses of things such as dorade ceviche, gambas and a deconstructed citron tart; the Thai Aux Trois Nages in the 16th; and the Italian Luisa Maria in the 6th.   Garnering one heart was the Cabinet de Sa Majeste, 4, rue de la Fontaine-au-Roi in the 11th.

Figaroscope’s Dossier by Alice Bosio and Colette Monsat lsted place to go for Fathers’ Day:
Ma Cocotte
Zen
L’Atelier d’Epicure
L’Hotel Costes
L’éclair de Genie

And Francois Simon’s Hache Menu reviewed the Café de la Paix, coordinates well known, where he said the biggest problem are the clients.

In L’Express this week, Kathleen Bousiquier reported that Alain Ducasse, saver of zombie restaurants [my wording] is going to give Allard a try at resuscitation and reports on a resaurant in Sydney Australia ; and Francis-Regis Gaudry reviewed Noma and several other restaurants in Copenhagen.

Reviews of reviews: The week of June 3rd, 2013

Monday-Tuesday in A Nous Paris, Carine Chenaux and Agnes Ruskowiak listed their places for great terrace eating this summer:
Le Royal Monceau
La Green 211  de Villette Enchantee
L’Ile
Le Café “Le Jardin du Petit Palais”
Monsieur Bleu
Les Climats
La Maison Blanche
La Maison des Polytechniciens, Ma Cocotte
Le Sparkling Garen Hotel W Paris-Opera

Tuesday, Francis Morteau in Le Fooding, reviewed Le Cette, 7, rue Campagne-Première in the 14th, closed weekends but weekdays serving three meals a day, running one from 36-50 E with items such as herring, hachis parmentier and a blanc-manger with rhubarb.

On Wednesday, in Figaroscope, Emmanuel Rubin reviewed his usual five new restaurants, giving 2 hearts to three places: the Oyster Bar Desssirier, 9, pl du Marechal-Juin in the 17th, 01.42.27.82.14, open 7/7 and mentions the oysters and lobster club sandwich running one 30-50 E; Les Mots Passants, 7-11 rue Saint-Benoit in the 6th, 01.42.61.53.53, closed Saturday diner & Sundays with formulas at 21 and 29 and a la carte about 50 E for poached eggs, petit pois soup, lieu jaune and strawberry éclair; and the previously mentioned Chez Graff in the 7th.  One heart went to Dolan in the 5th which serves a mix of Asian food found between China and Marco Polo and rated Medi Terra Nea in the 9 a broken heart.

Figaroscope’s Dossier by Colette Monsat, Alice Bosio and Sophie de Santis was a  teaser for their new book on cocktails (AperoScope) where they gave 20 favorites:
L’Embuscade
Le Coq
Sherry Butt
Le Duke
Little Red Door
Le bar de nuit du Bristol
 Le Sake Bar
L’Hotel
The Club
L’entrée des artists
Le Rosebud
Le 228 du Meurice
La Terrace du Raphael
Le Bar du Shangri
La Vue de l’Hotel Concorde Lafayette
Le Bellerive
Bar Ourcq
O’Paris
Les Etangs de Corot
Chez Gegene

And in another article on Tops and Flops of famous sites in Paris Lena Lutaud, Francois Aubel, Anne-Charlotte de Lanche, Colette Monsat and Francois Simon came up with the following:
The cancers
Le Grand Bleu
Café Branly
Le Café de l’Homme
Le Zyriab
Opera de l’Opera Garnier
Le Pavillion du lac
Les Jardins du Bagatelle
The good students
Le Mini Palais
La Grande Cascade
Le Saut du Loup
Le Jules Vern
Georges
Monsieur Bleu
Le Ciel de Paris
Le Resturant du Palais-Royal
Ambiance Ambiance
Le Train Bleu
Le Lido
Rosa Bonheur
Wanderlust

Finally, Lena Lutaud notes some new concessions:
Le Café de la Musique a la Villette
Cite des Sciences, Jardin d’Acclimation & Palais de la Decouverte
La Gare St Lazare (Eric Frechon)
Restaurant au Theatre des marionettes du jardin du Luxembourg and gives some upcoming openings at:
The Terrasse de la Petite Venise at Versailles
Palais Brongniart (Yannick Alleno) and even more that open starting with the rentree.

And Francois Simon’s Hache Menu reviewed the Chalet des Iles, coordinates well-known, where in response to Go? He says “Humm, jouable mais rique.”

In L’Express this week, Mina Soundiram, rerviewed three new food trucks : Mozza et Co, La Frite and Banh Mi Nomade and ; Francis-Regis Gaudry reviewed the Costes-Piege collaboration -  Le Café Francais in the 11th, coordinates already given.

Reviews of reviews: The week of May 27th, 2013

Monday-Tuesday in A Nous Paris, Philippe Toinard gave 3/5 dots to Monsieur Bleu, 20 ave de New York in the 16th, 01.47.20.90.47, open 7/7 and serving (for about 60 E) ham, salmon unilateral, a bacon cheeseburger and various desserts; meanwhile Jerome Berger gave 4/5 to the previously mentioned O Divin in the 19th.

Tuesday, Matthieu Jauniau-Dallier in Le Fooding, reviewed Le Petit Pan, Le Grand Pan’s offshoot at 18, rue Rosenwald in the 15th, 01.42.50.04.04, closed Sundays, running one 16-25 E for items such as sauteed chorizo, pigs’ feet, bulots, duck hearts and tapas which run about 4 E.

On Wednesday, in Figaroscope, Emmanuel Rubin did not review his usual five new restaurants.

Figaroscope’s Dossier by Hugo de Saint-Phalle, Colette Monsat and Alice Bosio concerned terraces that included (cute descriptors not given):
Monsieur Bleu
Le Café Francais
Ma Cocotte
Le Saut de Loup
L’Ilot
Jeanne B.
Paris Breizh
Wanderlust
Pirouette
Edgar
Les Climats
Le Poulpry
Plus a few others: Le MOB, Chalet des Iles, Les Ombres, Le Minipalais, Le Relais du Parc, La Maison Blanche & Le Roof top du Mama Shelter.

And Francois Simon’s Hache Menu reviewed Chez Graff, coordinates given before which he recommends to eat at if you live nearby not far away.

In L’Express this week, Mina Soundiram reviewed three new food trucks : Mozza et Co, La Frite and Banh Mi Nomade and ; Francis-Regis Gaudry reviewed the Costes-Piege collaboration -  Le Café Francais in the 11th, coordinates already given.

Sunday in the JDD Aurelie Chaigneau went to the old brasserie (closed for 7 months) Valois 1868 where she commrented on the oysters and Quatrehomme cheese and Francois Lemaire in JDD version femina went to the boulangerie Gontran Cherrier, cave Postiche and Vincent Ferniot's bio Boco.

Reviews of reviews: The week of May 21st, 2013

Monday-Tuesday in A Nous Paris, Philippe Toinard gave 4/5 dots to the previously mentioned Table of Bruno Verjus in the 12th; and Jerome Berger gave 3/5 to the thai-influenced Lanna Café, 16, rue des Dames in the 17th, 09.80.33,60,44 *=(but no reservations) open Tuesday-Sunday from 12-14h30 (uniquely on weekends) and 18h00-22h30 (except Sundays), where the carte is about 30 E for foie gras with yuzu, chicken raviolis, duck tartare and panna cotta.

Tuesday, Matthieu Jauniau-Dallier in Le Fooding, reviewed O Divin, 35, rue des Annelets in the 19th, 01.40.40,79.41, closed Sundays and Saturdays and Mondays for lunch, serving (for 16-35 E or on 16 & 18 lunch formulas) items such at tete de veau, grilled mackerel, rouget, escabeche of rabbit and a rhubarb-strawberry dessert.

On Wednesday, in Figaroscope, Emmanuel Rubin reviewed his usual five new restaurants and gave 2/5 hearts to three places - Manger, 24, rue Keller in the 11th, 01.43.38.69.15, closed Sundays and Mondays, where for 35-50 or 55 E menu one can have polpo ceviche, stuffed encornets and a Paris-Brest;  La Pointe du Groin, coordinates already given; and Les Climats, ditto.  Garnering only one heart were Les Bobines in the 10th and Blueberry in the 6th.

Figaroscope’s Dossier by Colette Monsat and Hugo de Saint-Phalle talked of places on/near the Rue Richer:
La Regalade Conservatoire
L’Office
RicherLes Sardignac
Pas Vu, Pas Pris
Big Fernand
L’Atelier Crepier
And always: Supernature, Kiku, Green Pizz
And also Le Jardinier

And Francois Simon’s Hache Menu reviewed Leo Dupont, coordinates given before.  As to whether or not to go: he says if you live nearby you’ll soon be an habitué.

In L’Express this week, Francis-Regis Gaudry reviewed two places, Medi Terra Nea, 13, rue du Faubourg-Montmartre in the 9th, 01.47.70.53.04, closed Sundays where tapas are 2.50-6.50 E and one spends about 20-30 E petit pois soup, Lebanese salad, tzatziki and yogurt as well as the Maison d’Uzes in the Gard.  In addition Charles Patin O'Coohoon reviewed La Pointe du Groin, coordinates given before and Irene Platet reviewed O’Quotidien in Nice.

Sunday in the JDD Aurelie Chaigneau went to a cantine called Nano, 14, rue Bachaumont in the 2nd, open for lunch to apero-time, closed weekends which serves aperos and small portions in glasses; and Francois Lemaire in JDD version femina went to H Kitchen, coordinates given before.

Reviews of reviews: The week of May 13th, 2013

Monday-Tuesday in A Nous Paris, Jerome Berger gave 4/5 dots to the Rose Bakery Tearoom, in Le Bon Marche Rive Gauche, 24 rue de Sevres in the 7th, no telephone, closed Sundays and when open it’s from 10 AM-7 PM, costing 20-40 E a la carte for items such as granola in the morning, veggies and crab cakes at lunch and cakes in the afternoon; and Philippe Toinard reviewed Thierry Breton’s third place (giving it 3/5) - La Pointe de Groin, 8, rue de Belzunce in the 10th, no telephone, open 7/7, serving things such as a sausage cake and sandwiches of pork as well as Breton desserts.

Tuesday, Yves Nespoulous, in Le Fooding, reviewed Hugo Desnoyer’s new Restaurant/Butcher Shop/Table d’Hote, the Boucherie Hugo Desnoyer, 28, rue du Docteur-Blanche in the 16th, 01.46.47.83.00, closed Sundays and Mondays and for 25-40 a la carte and 45-60 E for the menus serving plain grilled meats, including pintade, vegetables, cheese and tarts.

On Wednesday, in Figaroscope, Emmanuel Rubin reviewed his usual five new restaurants and gave 3/5 hearts to Es, coordinates given already, where he commented on the cream of onion soup, foie gras with cream of watercress and pigeon with cocoa sauce.  Edgar, coordinates lso already given got 2 hearts with comments about the smoked herring, burrata and peach and bavelle with fries.  One heart only was awarded the Grand Café Convivium, Pas Vu, Pas Pris and Reparate.

Figaroscope’s Dossier by Colette Monsat concerned itself with new places for choux and eclairs and listed:
Popelini
Odette
La Maison du Chou
L’Atelier de l’éclair
Meert
La Republique PatissiereLa Mere Poularde
Premiere Pression Provence
La Fabrique des cookies
Les Suceries de Melodie
Arnaud Lahrer
La Patisserie des Reves
Pierre Marconi
Patisserie Cyril Lignac
La chocolaterie d’Alain Ducasse
La Patisserie de Jean-Francois Piege
La Tarte Tropezienne
Da Rosa (the latter two soon to open)

And Francois Simon’s Hache Menu reviewed Invictus, coordinates given before.

In L’Express this week, Mina Soundiram reviewed the P’tite Ardoise in Montpellier, Francois-Regis Gaudry reviewed the Japanese fusion restaurant Les Climats in the 7th and Claire Solery wrote about her 30 years at the Japanese Hanafousa in the 6th.

Reviews of reviews: The week of May 7th, 2013

Monday-Tuesday in A Nous Paris, Jerome Berger gave 3/5 dots to Es, 91, rue de Grenelle in the 7th, 01.45.51.25.74, closed Sundays and Mondays, with unique menus at 45 (for lunch) 65 and 85 E at dinner, serving items such as onion soup, turbot and pigeon prepared by a Japanese chef who has passed through l’Astrance and Noma.

Tuesday, Yves Nespoilous, in Le Fooding, reviewed the sushi place Blueberry in the 6th.

On Wednesday, in Figaroscope, Emmanuel Rubin reviewed his usual five new restaurants and gave 3/5 hearts to Bruno Verjus’ Table, 3, rue de Prague in the 12th, 01.43.43.12.26, closed weekends, where a la carte 50-70 E one has green asparagus, echine of pork and roast pineapple.  He also gave 2/5 hearts to Chameleon, 70, rue Rene-Boulanger in the 10th, 01.42.08.99.41, closed weekends, with lunch menus at 15, 16 and 19 but dinner at 50 E for raw langoustines, pintade and smoked eel.  One heart each went to the Café Francais in the 4th, Valois 1868 in the 8th and Shabestan in the 16th.

Figaroscope’s Dossier was all about pizza places in town.

And Francois Simon’s Hache Menu reviewed the Japanese chef Taku’s Jin in the 1st where he dropped 270 E on fish and says one must go.

In L’Express this week, Mina Soundiram reviewed Cuistance, coordinates already given, in the First; Francois-Regis Gaudry reviewed the Bistrot de la marine in Cagnes-sur-mer; Charles Patin O’Coohoon covered L’Elephant Blanc in Lausanne and Kathleen Bousiquier reviewed Phare de la Mediterranee in Palavas-Les-Flots.

Reviews of reviews: The week of April 29th, 2013

Monday-Tuesday in A Nous Paris, Philippe Toinard reviewed and gave 2/5 dots to Aux Vieux Garcons, 213 Blvd St-Germain in the 7^th, 01.42.22.06.57, closed Sundays, lunch formula at 20 E, a la carte 40 where he admired the oeuf mayo, kidneys, and rice pudding but felt the risotto felt short; meanwhile Jerome Berger gave 3/5 to the latest Costes production – the Café Francais, 3, place de la Bastille in the 4^th, 01.40.29.04.02, open 7/7, a la carte about 50 E, where he mentions the salmon, cod and Paris-Brest.

Tuesday, Yves Nespoilous, in Le Fooding, reviewed the Medi Terra Nea, 13, rue du Faubourg Montmartre in the 9^th, 01.47.70.53.03, closed Sundays, costing 16-35 E for items such as cold petit pois soup, lamb, raw beef and clementine soup.

Saturday in Le Figaro, Francois Simon reviewed Spring, coordinates well known, saying there was no way he could not highly recommend it.

And Sunday, in the JDD, Aurelie Chaigneau’s address of the week was the Fontaine de Mars (7/10) coordinates well-known; her discovery was a sandwich shop La Pointe du Grouin (7.5) in the 10^th; and her “return to” place was the Big Fernand in the 10^th (7.5).  Francois Lemarie in the JDD’s version femina reviewed En vrac, coordinates given before, in the 18^th.

Reviews of reviews: The week of April 22nd, 2013

Monday-Tuesday in A Nous Paris, Philippe Toinard reviewed and gave 3/5 dots to Cuistance, coordinates given before and Jerome Berger gave 3/5 to Edgar, ditto.

Tuesday, Yves Nespoilous, in Le Fooding, reviewed Thierry Breton’s third (after Chez Michel & Chez Casimir) called the Restaurant La Pointe du Grouin, 8, rue de Belzunce in the 10th, no telephone, open 7/7, non-stop 8h to 2 h, costing less than 15 E for 4 E sandwichie-type stuff at lunch (andouille, ham, smoked salmon) and 4 E hors-d’œuvre stuff at dinner (tuna, pigeon) plus 2 E desserts such as kumquat tarts, yogurt and pots of chocolate (glasses of wine from a magnum run 2-4 E.)

In Figaroscope this week, Emmanuel Rubin rewarded the new chef at Antoine (coordinates well known) in the 16th with three hearts for his 90-140 E a la carte offerings of items such as langoustines, rouget and pistachio souffle.  He then gave the Marc Meneau-directed Saut du Loup, coordinates given before, two hearts, for the 25 E lunch menu (40-60 E a la carte in the evening) that contains ham and milk-fed lamb.  Single hearts went to the Italian Il Goto in the 12th ; the Chinese Nanchang in the 11th ; and the wine & cheese joint En Vrac in the 18th.

The Dossier this week by Colette Monsat, Alice Bosio, Lena Lutaud, Hugo de Saint Phalle and Francois Simon reviewed the “new brunch” restaurants:
Colorama
Auberge Flora
Epicerie Musicale
Le Bel ami
La Compagnie de Bretagne
Bozart Bistrot
Les Sardignac
Café Louise
Noglu
Le Castiglione

And Francois Simon went to the Italian Gustibus in the 11th.

This week’s L’Express had a review by Francois-Regis Gaudry of the Japanese-French Es, 91, rue de Grenelle in the 7th, 01-45-51-25-74, closed Sundays and Mondays, menus at 65 or 85 and 45 E at lunch starting in May, mentioning things like a caramelized Jerusalem artichoke and emulsion of anchovies; Charles Patin O’Coohoon of Chez Graff, 62, rue de Bellechasse in the 7th, 01-45-51-33-42, lunch formulas at 20 and 24 and a la carte 30-35 E, closed weekends, chef’d by a Japanese guy as well who serves items such as green aples, cucumber jelly and wild watercress; and Kathleen Bousiquier wrote up Bloempot in Lille.

Saturday in Le Figaro, Francois Simon reviewed Maxim’s, coordinates well-known where for 400 E a couple one can dine pleasantly.

And Sunday, in the JDD, Aurelie Chaigneau’s address of the week was the Daily Syrien in the 10th (7/10), her discovery was Edgar in the 2nd (5.5) and “return to” place La Mascotte in the 18th (6.5).  Francois Lemarie in version femina reviewed La Regalade Conservatoire in the 9th.

 

Reviews of reviews: The week of April 8th, 2013

Reviews of reviews: The week of April 8th, 2013Monday-Tuesday in A Nous Paris, Philippe Toinard reviewed and gave 2/5 dots to the cave a manger Le Zag a vin, 18, rue Duphot in the 1st, closed Saturday lunch, Sundays and Mondays, 01.40.15.06.69, formulas 22 and 27 at lunch, menus 28 and 38 E serving overly creay cream of cauliflower soup, smoked magret, cod and cheesecake and lots of wines in the old Vin Chai Moi space; and Jerome Berger gave 3/5 to two steakhouses whose coodinates have been given before – Ma chere & tendre and Le Boeuf Volant.

Tuesday, Yves Nespoulous, in Le Fooding, reviewed the Edgar, 31, rue Alexandre in the 2nd, 01.40.41.05.69, open 7/7, chef’d by an ex-Petit Cheval de Menage, costing 16-35 E, serving fresh seafood (oysters, clams, herring, cod) and items such as an echine de porc and a bavette as well as rice pudding and home-made ices.

Wednesday in Figaroscope, Emmanuel Rubin reviewed and gave 2 hearts to two places – Leo Dupont, 16, rue de la Grande-Chaumiere in the 6th, 01.43.29.43.31, closed Sundays and Mondays running one 35-40 E without wine,  for items such as a haddock tart, lieu jaune and a salad of dates and oranges as well as Les Petits Plats d’Emile, coordinates given before.  He also tested the one-heart Broken Arm in the 3rd and Slice in the 2nd.   He gave a busted/broken heart to the Lobster Bar in the 1st.

The Dossier this week by Hugo de Sainte Phalle and Colette Monsat was on business meals at:
Sola
Pirouette
Cobea
Terroir Parisien
Les Tablettes de Jean-Louis Nomicos
Garance
Le Coq Rico

And Francois Simon tried one of them, Cobea, which he thought was good and you should go to.

This week’s L’Express had a review by Charles Patin O’Coohoon of La Grande Cremerie, coordinates given before; Anne-Laure Pham covered the Lobster Bar, ditto; Marie-Amal Bizalion wrote up Lumineux Café Edmond by Serena in Marseille and Francois-Regis Gaudry went to Pierre Sang Boyer in the 11th.

Reviews of reviews: The week of April 1st, 2013

Monday-Tuesday in A Nous Paris, Philippe Toinard reviewed and gave 2/5 dots to Les Petits Plats d’Emile, 8, rue Jean Jacques Rousseau in the 1st, 01.42.60.08.00, closed Sundays, with a lunch formula at 13 E and lunch menu at 19 E with items such as brandade, sweetbreads, choux with chocolate or a Paris-Bresst; and Jerome Berger gave 3/5 to the Italian Il Goto in the 12th.

Tuesday, Yves Nespoulous, in Le Fooding, reviewed the Mediterannean sandwicherie Reparate, 128, rue Charenton in the 12th, 01.40.19.15.68, closed weekends, costing less than 15 E for take-away sandwiches or socca.

Wednesday in Figaroscope, Emmanuel Rubin reviewed and gave 2 hearts to Ma Chere et Tendre in the Hotel Meridien Etoile, 81, dlvd Gouvion-Saint-Cyr in the 17th, 01.40.68.30.40, open 7/7, running one 40-60 a la carte but 35 E on a menu – featuring items such as crabcake, angus onglet and a cobbler-crumble as well as the new team at Afaria, coodinates well known & given before – now serving items such as a boudin, parillada of seafood and Basque cake on 22 and 26 E lunch formulas and 40-50 E a la carte.  He awarded one heart to La Colere du Gorille in the 16th, Le Café Blanc Courreges in the 8th and Duplicata in the 11th.

The Dossier this week by Colette Monsat, Alice Bosio and Hugo de Sainte Phalle was on new meat places in Paris and included:
Le Flamboire
Drugstore Steakhouse
Chez Boris
Atelier Vivanda
L’Aller Retour
Les Provinces
The Beef Club
Le Boeuf Volant
Bang
Les Tontons (the newest in the 13th)
La Maison de l’Aubrac
Aux Lyonnais
Sergent Recruteur

And Francois Simon went to the new fish restaurant, Helen in the 8th, 3, rue Berryer, 01.40.76.01.40 costing 100 E.

This week’s L’Express had a review by Francois-Regis Gaudry of Masa in Boulogne-Billancourt.