Monday-Tuesday in A Nous Paris, Philippe Toinard reviewed and gave 2/5 dots to the henceforth fish-serving Café des Ministeres in the 7th where his meal sounds awful (a la carte 45-60 E), closed Sundays; and Jerome Berger gave 3/5 to the American food (hamburgers, San Francisco beer and cookies) centered Lockwood in the 2nd (closed Sundays, running one 15 E).
Tuesday in Le Fooding Yves Nespoulous reviewed Blue Valentine, 13, rue de la Pierre Levee in the 11th, 01.43.38.34.72, closed Mondays and Tuesdays, chef’d by a Japanese guy from the Mandarin Oriental, who for a 19 E lunch formula, 29-36 E menus and 54 E at night, serves sourced items such as marinated octopus, a poitrine de porc and a Mont-blanc.
Wednesday in Figaroscope, Emmanuel Rubin reviewed and gave 2/4 hearts to two places: Les Nicois, 7, rue Lacharriere in the 11th, 09.84.16.55.03, closed Sunday dinner & Mondays, which runs one 25-30 or at the 25 E brunch serves coffee, fresh fruit and tartines and L’Envie du Jour in the ex-Bigarrade space at 106, rue Nollet in the 17th, 0142.26.01.02, closed Sundays, serving items such as veal piccata, beef with carrot puree and a macaroon with chocolate for menus at lunch 16 E and dinner 24 and 36 E. Three places merited one heart: the Japanese Street food Peco Peco in the 9th; Clint in the 11th and the Lebanese Chez Nagi in the 7th.
The Dossier this week by Colette Monsat, Alice Bosio and Hugo de Saint Phalle was on “concept-stores:”
The Broken Arm
Mel, Mich & MartinLe
Le Beef Club et le Ballroom
Le 68 Guy Martin
Nanashi chez Bonpoint
Gossima Ping Pong Bar
In another article on spring happenings, Colette Monsat mentioned the “best addresses of the moment:”
And Francois Simon went to the Japanese “bobo” Café Kitsume where he had an espresso and chocolate cookie for 6 E.
Wednesday as well, Heidi Ellison in Paris Update continued her review of places to get quality fast food: the previously mentioned Grillé, Jules et Shim, and Holybelly.
Thursday, in l’Express, Francois-Regis Gaudry extolled the merits of L’Assiette in Reims and Charles Patin O’Coohoon liked the pretty bistro run by an ex-Ribouldingue chef – l’Atelier Ramey, 23, rue Ramey in the 18th, 01.42.51.04.78, closed Sundays, which has a formula for 19, a menu for 35 and a la carte runs on 25-35 E for items such as a lentil soup, veal poitrine and chocolate quenelle.
Saturday, Colette Monsat, in le Figaro, revealed that most wasabi in France is faux – a mélange of horseradish and mustard and that only 10% of Japanese places have people of that origin actually are involved in Japanese restos.
Sunday in the JDD, Francois Lemaire wrote up the previously mentioned Tsubame and Aurelie Chaigneau gave the previously mentioned: Degustation a 8/10, Coretta a 7.5 and Isse a 7/10.
Monday-Tuesday in A Nous Paris, Philippe Toinard reviewed and gave 4/5 dots to the previously mentioned Balls in the 11th and Jerome Berger gave 4/5 to the aforementioned Le Lulli in the 1st.
Tuesday in Le Fooding, they reviewed the Bar de la Releve in Marseille.
Wednesday in Figaroscope, Emmanuel Rubin reviewed and gave 2/4 hearts to the previously mentioned all dessert place Dessance in the 4th, Hai Kai in the 10th and the Japanese Shinseki in the 6th. One heart each went to the wine bar Monsieur Henri in the 3rd and La Ferme St Simon in the 7th.
The Dossier this week was on the kids’ dishes:
Balls – boulettes
Terroir Parisien Bourse – Croque-monsieur
Little Fernand – hot dog
Sunken Chip – fish nuggets
Lazare – saucisse puree
Pozzetto – chocolate ice cream
Café Constant – escalope Cordon-Bleu
Café Germain – coquillettes –jambon
Rebellato – Nutella pizza
Breizh Café - crepes
And Francois Simon went to L’Auberge du Roi Gradlon for Breton fare, especially crepes, urging one to go; his meal was 249 E but he had lobster.
Wednesday as well, Heidi Ellison in Paris Update reviewed places to get quality fast food: the previously mentioned Frenchie to Go, Freddie's Deli, Caluc and the Viet Namese Bulma.
Thursday, in l’Express, Francois-Regis Gaudry extolled the merits of David Toutain and his new restaurant, coordinates given before and Charles Patin O’Coohoon called L’Eclectic deceiving; it’s located in the Centre Beaugrenelle, 2, rue Linois in the 15th, 01.77.36.70.00 charging 40-70 E a la carte, open 7/7. Outside Paris they reviewed the Café Jean in Biarritz and the Comptoir Breizh Café in St Malo.
Monday-Tuesday in A Nous Paris, Philippe Toinard reviewed and gave 2/5 dots to the previously mentioned Maison F in the 9th and Jerome Berger gave 4/5 to Coretta, mentioned previously as well, in the 17th.
Tuesday in Le Fooding, Yves Nespoulous reviewed Hai Kai (aka as haiku), 104, quai de Jemmapes in the 10th, 09.81.99.98.88, closed Sundays for dinner and Mondays, chef’d by Amelie Darvas (ex-Bristol and L’Ami Jean) running one 17-22 E for lunch menus and 16-35 E for items such as a cold white bean soup, cod, sweetbreads and charcuterie.
Wednesday in Figaroscope, Emmanuel Rubin reviewed and gave 3/4 hearts to the previously mentioned Coretta and 2 hearts to the Italian Viola in the 17th. One heart each went to: the Italian Bianca, the Comptoir des Rillettes and the bar a vins Chai d’Adrien in the 11th.
The Dossier this week was on the Best Hamburgers in Paris which I suspect doesn’t interest my readers (or me frankly).
And Francois Simon went to Burger King in the 9th.
Wednesday as well, Heidi Ellison in Paris Update reviewed the aforementioned Balls.
Saturday-Sunday in Le Figaro, Lena Lutaud wrote a piece on the possible end of foie gras (at least via gavage) in France and replacing Francois Simon’s column was one by Stephane Durand-Souffland on Le Violin d’Ingres.
Monday-Tuesday in A Nous Paris, Philippe Toinard reviewed and gave 3/5 dots to the aforementioned David Toutain and Jerome Berger awarded the same to the also aforementioned Bistro Bellet. Two brief notes mentioned Balls in the 11th and the Japanese Peco Peco in the 9th.
Tuesday in Le Fooding, Yves Nespoulous reviewed Clint (Eastwood), 174, rue de la Roquette in the 11th, 01.44.64.07.36, open 7/7 8h30-23h, running one 16-35 E for items such as butternut soup, trout , cheesecake and all sorts of beers and coffees (and tee shirts of Clint.)
Wednesday in Figaroscope, Emmanuel Rubin had a week of one-star disappointments – at the Table de La Grande Epicerie at Bon Marche in the 7th, Maison F in the 3rd, Café Pinson 2 in the 10th, Alharmbar in the 10th and did even worse at the French Beer Factory in the 2nd, which broke his heart.
The Dossier by Colette Monsat, Alice Bosio, Lena Lutaud and Hugo de Saint Phalle covered 10 Chop Stick Favorites – the Shang Palace, Chez Vong, Shan Gout, Noodle Bar, Jardins de Mandchourie, Taverne de Zhao, Chen Soleil d’Est, Delice de Confusius & Wen Zhou-Chez Alex and also Mirama and Les Pates Vivantes as well as Tong Yen.
And Francois Simon went to Juveniles, which he says to go to.
Wednesday as well, Heidi Ellison in Paris Update reviewed the aforementioned Clamato.
Thursday, in L’Express, Francois-Regis Gaudry reviewed Neva-chef Beatriz Gonzales’ Coretta, 151 bis rue Cardinet in the 17, 01.42.26.55.55, open 7/7 (but brunch Sundays) with a lunch menu at 24 and dinner 33 for 2 courses, 39 E for three, serving veal head and tongue, sweetbreads and a sable as well as Le Palégrié in Lyon and Jan in Nice.
Sunday in the JDD, Aurelie Chaigneau gave a 7/10 to the aforementioned Miznon, a 7.5 to the Thai Lanna Café and a 7/10 to the Italian l'Altro and her colleague Francois Lemaire reviewed Le BAT in the 9th.
Monday-Tuesday, in A Nous Paris, Jerome Berger gave 3/5 dots to Tsubame, 40, rue de Douai in the 9th, 01.48.78.06.84, closed Sundays and Mondays, costing 11.50 and 12 (bento) E for lunch and about 25 E a la carte for dinner – run by a Japanese-Vietnamese couple from Atao who serve Asian food as well as writing a little squib on the previously mentioned Degustation by Westermann; meanwhile Philippe Toinard gave only 2/5 dots to the previously mentioned Terroir Parisien Bourse as well as writing a little squib on the return of the previously mentioned David Toutain.
Tuesday, in Le Fooding, Yves Nespoulous reviewed Dessance, 74, rue des Archives in the 3rd, open from 15h00-23h00 most days (noon on weekends) for tea and pastries although they do have vegetables and salads and wines for 6-44 E.
In the Figaroscope, Emmanuel Rubin tested his usual 5 new restaurants, awarding 3/4 hearts to the previously mentioned David Toutain and 2/4 hearts to the neocantine Balls, 47, rue Saint-Maur in the 11th, 09.51.38.74.89, closed Sundays and Mondays which has a lunch formula for 13 E and a la carte runs 25 E for items such as boulettes (meatballs/dumplings, hence the name Balls) of lamb or vegetables or polenta. One heart each was awarded to Trois-Quart in the 17th, Tsubame in the 9th and Mamma Roma in the 6th.
In their Dossier, Alice Bosio, Hugo de Saint Phalle and Colette Monsat described the new places along the Grands Boulevards:
Medi Terra Nea
Pret a Manger
And the places in the Passage des Panoramas: Racines, Gyoza Bar, Passage 53, Noglu & Les Grands d’Espagne.
And Francois Simon's Hache Menu tried the previously mentioned L’Hotel where he says to go and plan on spending about 150 E per person.
Monday-Tuesday, in A Nous Paris, Philippe Toinard gave 4/5 dots to Napoleone and Jerome Berger awarded Clamato 3/5 dots – both have been mentioned here before.
Tuesday, in Le Fooding, Yves Nespoulous reviewed David Toutain, 28 rue Surcouf in the 7th, closed weekends, which for 51 E serves a variety of dishes from eggs to foie gras, from chicken innards to desserts.
Emmanuel Rubin tested 5 new restaurants, awarding 2/4 hearts to a champagne bar Degustation, 93, rue Lepic in the 18th, 01.46.06.25.20 open 7/7 and costing about 25 E for items such as eggs with spinach, foie gras en croute and a filet of beef. He gave 1 heart each to Caluc, Les Nautes, Papacionu and John Weng.
In their Dossier, Alice Bosio, Colette Monsat and Hugo de Saint Phalle gave a list of what one can get for 10 Euros and where:
A tart du jour & boor at the Tuck Shop
A dish & drink at Boco
A burger at Blend 2
A cocktail at La Faille
A café gourmand at the Mini Palais
A pulled pork sandwich at Frenchie to go
A jambon-beurre & coff at Lazare
6 oysters at La Cabane a Huitres
A sandwich & ice at the Verre Vole
A cocktail at Calbar
A formula at Caluc
A breakfast at the Café Francais
A sandwich &tisane at Lockwood
Four-Five verrines at Nano
A tonkatsu at Hunitoraya
A tartiflette at 58 Quality Street
A formula at the Breizh Café
Three pastries at the Gateaux Thoumieux
A bo bun at the Rouleau de Printemps
Three tacos & fresh water at El Guacamole
A marguerite at Da Vito
A clap's at Gustave
An Ole Moly at Freddie's Deli
A galette & kouign amman at the Pointe du Groin
A pita with meat at Miznon
A children's menu at the Café Grenadine
6 Choux a la crème at the Maison du Chou
8 gyoza & green tea at Gyoza Bar
A kebab & mineral water at Grille
And Francois Simon's Hache Menu tried the previously mentioned 68 Par Guy Martin where two ate cod and had a bottle of Cloudy Bay and Chateldon for 118 E (he says go).
Monday-Tuesday, in A Nous Paris, they featured holiday items and announced the opening of a Brie Bar in the Hotel Renaissance Paris-Arc de Triomphe, 39, ave de Wagram in the 17th, 01.55.37.55.57, open 7/7 costing about 10 E per person tasting.
Tuesday, in Le Fooding, Yves Nespoulous reviewed Caluc, 11, rue des Petits-Ecuries in the 10th, 01.42.47.17.29, closed weekends for take-out calucs, a sort of Aveyronnaise wrap.
In Wednesday’s Figaroscope, Emmanuel Rubin did his traditional end of the year (2013) “Best 15 Restaurants” that included:
Frenchie to go
In a listing of the best “vins chauds” Alice Bosio and Colette Monsat gave:
Le Stube Verdeau
And in the 5 best fondu-raclette places they listed
Le Chalet Savoyard
Pain, vin, fromages
Les Fondus de la raclette
Heureux comme Alexandre
Chalet de Neuilly
And Francois Simon devoted his Hache Menu to the aforementioned Paradis.
Thursday, in L’Express, Ulla Majoube had a piece on the aforementioned Le 68 of Guy Martin. And in a year-end summary, François-Régis Gaudry, Charles Patin O'Coohoon and Mina Soundiram listed their top restos of the year:
Frenchie to go
La Pointe du Groin
La Boite a Sardine (the latter three outside Paris)
Monday-Tuesday, in A Nous Paris, Jerome Berger gave 3/5 dots to the previously mentioned La Table de Vietnam; and Philippe Toinard awarded the same to Les Pieds dans l’eau, 39, bvd du Parc ile de la Jatte (Neuilly), 01.4747.64.07, closed Sunday night, costing 30 E at lunch for eggs, entrecote, steak/fries and grilled lamb.
Tuesday, in Le Fooding, someone reviewed Bloempot in Lille.
In Wednesday’s Figaroscope, Emmanuel Rubin awarded 3 hearts to 68 Guy Martin in the Guerlain boutique, 68, ave des Champs-Eylsees in the 8th, 01.45.62.54.10 open 7/7 from breakfast through dinner, costing 50-70 E without liquids for items such as foie gras, cod and a Mont Rose with chestnuts. He also awarded 2 hearts to Christian Etchebest’s newest venture – Napoleone, 25, ave des Champs-Elysees in the 8th, 01.42.25.60.80, open 7/7, costing 35-45 E for plates such as marinated mushrooms, echine de cochon and rice pudding. One heart each went to Amaryllis in the 6th and Le P’tit Comptoir du Grand Blond in the 11th and a busted heart was awarded La Mere Denis in the 10th.
The Dossier this week was all about places serving small plates, including:
L’Atelier Robuchon Etoile
Les Cartes Postales
Les Petits Plats
L’Opportun and also
Les Petits Plats d’Emile & Le Paris.
And Francois Simon devoted his Hache Menu to the Café Moderne where he recommends you go for the 2-course 14 E euro lunch.
Saturday, in the Figaro, Colette Monsat reported on the end of the 18 month renovation of the Grande Epicerie at Bon Marche which features boutiques within the boutique – for fish, charcuterie, cheese, etc.
Monday-Tuesday, in A Nous Paris, Jerome Berger gave 3/5 dots to Les Nautes, waterside at 1, quai des Celestins in the 4th, 01.42.74.59.53, closed Mondays & Tuesdays with lunch menus at 17.50 and 20 and dinner at 29 and 35 E, serving items such as 4-vegetable soup, tuna and an apple dessert; and Philippe Toinard reviewed and gave 3/5 dots to the Bistrot Valois, 1 bis, place de Valois in the 1st, 01.42.61.35.04, closed Sundays, costing between 30 and 50 E a la carte for items such as beef, hambourgeois and andouillette.
Tuesday, in Le Fooding, the review was of the restaurant Miles in Bordeaux.
In Wednesday’s Figaroscope, Emmanual Rubin awarded 3 hearts to the previously mentioned Le Caillebotte in the 9th, plus two hearts each to 2 two places, the Spanish Iperber in the 3rd and Paradis, 14, rue de Paradis in the 10th, 01.45.23.57.98, closed Sundays, where for about 35 E one can dine on a perfect egg, abalone & sweet onion gratin. One heart each went to 2 places, the Restaurant Marignan in the 8th and Ma Poule in the 16th.
The Dossier this week was all about new gourmand boutiques in Paris.
And Francois Simon devoted his Hache Menu to Le BAT where he recommends you go.
Sunday in the JDD, Francois Lemaire wrote up the previously mentioned Bistrot Belhara in the 7th and Aurelie Chaigneau wrote about several places already mentioned for the holidays – Monsieur Bleu, La Regalade Saint-Honore, the Beef Club and the Rose Bakery at Bon Mache.