John Talbott's Paris

Reviews of reviews: The Week of November 2nd, 2009

Tuesday, in Le Fooding, M.Au. reviewed Le Compoir des Mers, 1, rue de Turenne in the 4th, 01 42 72 66 51, closed Mondays, where the owner, coming from a fishing family, features fish straight off the boats of Trouville, Fécamp and Dieppe, serving sea urchins, wild salmon, bar, etc for about 27-32 € and desserts that aren't worth it.

This week in l’Express, Pierrick Jégu reviewed Aux Provinces as his resto under 30 E, coordinates and my review already given, and François-Régis Gaudry reviewed Yves Camdebord’s Avant Comptoir, a next door «bar à hors-d'œuvre ».

Tuesday in A Nous Paris, Jerome Berger reviewed and gave 3/5 dots to Passage 53, coordinates given before, where he commented on the sure technique in making the pumpkin soup, veal and oyster tartare, calamari, cod and chocolate tart, and Philippe Toinard gave 3/5 dots to the classic bistro l’Ogre, 1, ave de Versailles in the 16th, 01.45.27.93.40, closed Saturday lunch and Sundays, with an 18 lunch formula and a la carte 20-40 €, serving oeuf mayo, Poujauran bread, boudin noir, andouillette, rumsteak, tartres Tatin and crèmes brulees. They also have an XL (extra large) os a moelle.

Wednesday in Le Figaroscope, Emmanuel Rubin gave his opinion on five new places : three hearts went to the Jacques Maximin version of Alain Ducasse’s Rech, coordinates well-known ; dishes prepared with great finesse and La Fourchette du Printemps, coordinates given before, where he liked the products and preparation. He also gave two hearts to two places : the first [of which I strongly disagree] to l’Ogre, coordinates given before, where he commented on the rabbit rillettes, andouillette and petit suisses and Le Secret, 16 ave Friedland in the 8th, 01.53.53.02.02, closed Sundays with Club sandwiches and nems for 18-36 E a la carte. Finally, he awarded only one heart to Le Carre du Pou Volant, 55, rue de Bretagne in the 3rd, 01.42.72.09.39, closed Sundays, which serves hamburgers and Caesar salads for 20-30 E.

Wednesday as well, in Figaroscope, Claire Bommelaer and Colette Monsat’s « Dossier » was about where politicians eat when they eat out rather than in their cantines and dining rooms :
Around the Assembly
Chez Francoise
Le Cafe de l’Esplanade
Thiou
le Petit Thiou
Tante Marguerite
Auguste
Thoumieux
Cafe Germain
Hotel Amour
Around the Elysee
Lipp
L’Assiette
Le Divellec
Tong Yen
le Bristol
Laurent
Ledoyen
Le Pichet
Le Maxan
Around the Senate
La Mediterranee
La Cigale-Recamier
La Marlotte
La Coupole
La Closerie des Lilas

As usual, Francois Simon follows the theme and ate at Le Bistrot de Paris, 33, rue de Lille in the 7th, 01.42.61.16.83, where he reported that although few young stars were there, there was a table full of loud Americans and one with three Chinese ; his passable mini-meal of sole with girolles and apple tart cost 112 € for two.

Additionally, Wednesday, Claire Bommelaer wrote and article on where the « young guard » eats that included :
La Fresque
Le Temple
L’Amourette in Montreuil
Auberge du Bon Rivage in Villeneuve-le-Roi
La Foggia in Longjumeau
Ravi
Le Cafe des Lettres
Bellota-Bellota
La Galoche d’Aurillac
Le Canal in Courcouronnes.

Wednesday, Richard Hesse in Paris Update lauded Bernard du 15, coordinates given before, where he liked his meal much better than I, although we had strikingly similar experiences in this « cozy home away from home. »

Saturday in Le Figaro, Francois Simon’s “Croque-notes” praised Thoumieux reprised by Thierry Costes (hotel) and Jean-François Piège (e-Crillon (kitchen), which he had trashed 7 months ago, and said it’s one of the best things happening this season, and reasonable.

Over the weekend, in Bonjour Paris, Margaret Kemp wrote an essay entitled Moulin Rouge, Café Moderne & GaultMillau and John Talbott wrote an essay entitled “The Rating Game.”

Reviews of reviews: The Week of October 26th, 2009

Tuesday in l’Express, Pierrick Jégu reviewed Aux Provinces as his resto under 30 E, coordinates and my review already given, and François-Régis Gaudry discussed Italian places in France.

Tuesday’s Le Fooding’s review was by Gilles Dupuis about Table 28 in Daniel Rose’s old location in the 9th where he’s (face covered a la three monkeys) serving coucou de Rennes; ¼ for 29 €, ½ for 35 €, along with other items. He’s now serving 8:30-10:45 PM except Mondays and Tuesday and Saturday and Sunday 12-2 PM (sandwiches and rotisserie) but since it’s changing as he proceeds call 06 42 87 79 64 to make sure.

Tuesday in A Nous Paris, Jerome Berger reviewed the Sicilian place Non Solo Cucina, in the 16th and Philippe Toinard gave 3/5 dots to the classic bistro l’Ogre, 1, ave de Versailles in the 16th, 01.45.27.93.40, closed Saturday lunch and Sundays, with an 18 lunch formula and a la carte 20-40 €, serving oeuf mayo, Poujauran bread, boudin noir, andouillette, rumsteak, tartres Tatin and crèmes brulees. They also have an XL (extra large) os a moelle.

Wednesday on the web and Thursday in print, Figaroscope appeared and Emmanuel Rubin’s five new ones started off with three hearts awarded to Yves Camdeborde’s next door apero, hors-d’œuvre niche l’Avant Comptoir coordinates well known. Then he gives a series of one/four hearts to : the Viet Namese Bistrot Tao in the 6th, Music Hall, coordinates well-known in the 8th, a terrace/brunch place Chez Vous, 15, rue Choron in the 9th, 01 42 81 00 71, closed Sundays, costing 30-35 € and the wine bar Ma Cave Fleury in the 2nd.

Wednesday’s’ Scope Dossier by Alexandra Michot and Élodie Rouge featured the Haut Marais, the area between Rambuteau and Republique where they listed the following places:
Il Prezzemolo
Usagi
Rose Bakery II
Kitchen
Tartes Kluger
Chocolaterie Jacques Genin
Merci
Glou
Derrière
And also : Le Petit Curieux, La Focacceria des Vitelloni

And the pillars of the temple :
Le Breizh Café
Le Café des Musées
Le 404
Andy Wahloo
Chez Omar.

And everything in the Marché des Enfants-Rouges, eg Taeko & l’Estaminet.

In the same area, Francois Simon visited the neighborhood bistro which recently changed hands Le Baromètre, 17, rue Charlot in the 3rd, 01 48 87 04 54, open 7 :30-11 PM M-F and 9-6 pm Saturday where two had a terrine de foies de volaille, steak tartare and chocolate mousse for 86 €.

Wednesday, Richard Hesse in Paris Update lauded Les Grandes Bouches, coordinates given before, where he had a 1927 Pedro Ximenez for 11 Euros.

Saturday in Le Figaro, Francois Simon’s “Croque-notes” ravaged Lipp calling the chicken dry and its sauce Dead Sea tragic. In addition, Alexandra Michot wrote an article entitled “l'Art met les pieds dans le plat” on the interaction between art and dining that’s quite worth reading if gthey ever put it up on the web.

The weekend’s FT had a review of two of Paris’ “Chinatown”’s Viet Namese restos by Nicholas Lauder: Tan Dinh & Pho.

Sunday in the JDD Astrid T’Serclaes reviewed KGB in the version femina.

Over the weekend, in Bonjour Paris, Margaret Kemp wrote an essay entitled Jacques Maximin chez Rech, Gastronomy in the Metro and John Talbott wrote an essay entitled “The Spring-Table d’Eugene-Frenchie Problem?”

Reviews of reviews: The Week of October 19th, 2009

Monday in l’Express, Elvira Masson reviewed as her resto under 30 E the “New York Delicatessen” Joey’s Café, 34, rue de la Victoire in the 9th, 01-40-82-97-39, closed Saturday where bagels are 8-9, burgers 6.50-10.50 and hot dogs 6.50-12 E.

Tuesday’s Le Fooding’s review was by Nicolas Delesalle about Rosa Bonheur in the Buttes Chaumont (formerly just a glorified snack-food shop serving taboulé, serrano, chorizo, tomato salad, Basque pate, etc) in the 19th, 01.42.00.00.45, open 7/7, non-stop from 11-22h00, lunch from 13h30, dinner from 20h00 at which they serve chicken, 2 rotisseried roasts a day, veggies, bio cheese and wine.

Tuesday in A Nous Paris, Philippe Toinard gave 1/5 dots to the trendy bistro Le B 74, 74 rue de Tocqueville in the 17th, 01.48.88.90.19, closed Sundays, with 16 and 19 menus at lunch and 28 and 35 € ones at dinner where he had tasteless pea soup, a banal sauce on his marinated salmon and a burned bagel; while Jerome Berger reviewed Le 1 Place Vendome, 1 place Vendome (duh) in the 1st, 01.55.04.55.60, open 7/7, costing about 70 € a la carte for a pretty pigeon, potato “éclairs,” and a tartlette of sardines. In the sidebar they announced the arrival of a new chef at the P’tit Caillou in the 8th.

Wednesday, Emmanuel Rubin in Le Figaroscope reviewed two places that merited two hearts (2/4): the 1980’s favorite, then run by one Joel…., Jamin, coordinates known, now closed Saturday lunch and Sundays with lunch menus at 26 and 30 and a la carte from 50-60 € serving ecrivisses, merlan and a Paris-Brest as well as the Nicolas-like-food (Petit N not Pres N) La Cave Beauvau, 4, rue des Saussaies in the 8th, 01.42.65.24.90, closed Monday-Wednesday and Saturday dinner and Sundays, serving museau vinaigrette, entrecote and chocolate mousse. Then came two 1/4 hearters: Un des Sens coordinates given before where he talked of the charcuterie, antipasti and pasta and Les Fils a Mamam, coordinates ditto, with an “amusing” fishg, shellfish gratin and Petit Suisse. Meriting a busted heart was the self-proclaimed rascally bistrot 4 Pat, 4, rue St Merri in the 4th, 01.42.77.25.45, open 7/7 serving a 10 menu at lunch and 25 € a la carte array of charcuteries, pancetta and penne with cream sauce.

The Dossier this week was put together by Emmanuel Rubin and rates all the places opening this fall (all are rated x/10):
The tops
8.5 KGB
Neoclassic
7 1 place Vendome
6 L’Inattendu
5 l’Astor
3 l’Escargot Montogueil
Bistrots
7 Les Grandes Bouches
6.5 Tellus also reviewed by Francois Simon is his “Croques Notes” {see below}
6 Vin au Vert
Au rendez-vous du Marche
5.5 Café Tolo
5 Comptoir d’Alain le sommelier
Cosmopolitan
8 Kiku
7 Kiyomizu
6.5 Lin pour l’Hote
Le Kaveri
6 Non Solo Cucina
5.5 Sizin Montmartre
3 Senso
Fashionable and worldly
7 Les Enfants Terribles
Charbon Rouge
5 114 Faubourg
Les Cinoches
3 Ari
Cantines and diners
7 Tartes Kluger
6 Le Comptoir Baulois
5.5 H.A.N.D.
Aubrac Corner
Razowski’s
5 Rosalito
4 Focacceria des Vitelloni

As I said, then Francois Simon for his “Hache Menu” dined at Tellus, where he says if you live nearby you should go {I agree}.

Wednesday-Thurday, François-Régis Gaudry reviewed as his resto of the week in l’Express La Fourchette du Printemps, 30, rue du Printemps, at the angle of 27 bis, boulevard Pereire, in the 17th, 01-42-27-26-97, closed Saturday lunch .. and Sundays with lunch formulas at 18-30, a la carte about 42 Euros, serving a cold rocket velouté, seasonal salad, lots of fall veggies, a seafood waterzoï, formidable langoustines, entrecote and a delicious sounding complex, meringue dessert. I apologize for appparently not writing up his pick of October 8th which was Passage 53, coordinates and descriptions given before. Also this week, Pierrick Jégu reviewed as his place under 30 E Vertigo, 18, rue Lachamiere in the 9th, 01-55-28-70-07, 7/7, running about 25-30 Euros for « grignotages charcut'-fromage », eggplant a la plancha with parmesan, magret with honey and a chocolate mousse.

Saturday in Le Figaro, Francois Simon’s “Croque-notes” reviewed Julianon in Senlis (an hour away by train.) In addition, he wrote an article on the products and food of Brazil, both there and in Paris, mentioning Botequim Brasileiro in the 5th and O Corcovado in the 14th.

Sunday in the JDD Aurelie Chaigneau featured places with game: Le Carre des Feuillants, Le Bristol + L’Ami Jean and Astrid T’Serclaes reviewed Frenchie in the version femina.

Over the weekend, in Bonjour Paris, Margaret Kemp wrote about the refurbished Bistro Saint Ferdinand, La Sidreria, Le Boudoir, and Le Master Class Chocolat Pierre Herme and John Talbott wrote an essay entitled “Why Do I Like Ledeuil and Pacquin over Aizpitarte and Barbot?”

Reviews of reviews: The Week of October 12th, 2009

Tuesday’s Le Fooding review by Philippe Lafon was of Leonie in Biarritz.

Tuesday in A Nous Paris, gave 2/5 dots to two places (ouch): Jerome Berger reviewed the Vin a Tete natural wine store off-shoot Oh Bigre, 4, rue Bridaine in the 17th, 01.44.90.05.04, closed Sundays and Mondays, costing 12 E for a lunch formula, where the tarte savoyarde au reblochon et pommes de terre lacked character and the sardine rillettes de sardines weren’t convincing and Philippe Toinard talked 95% about everything but the food at I'Inattendu, coordinates below, talking unenthusiastically about the beef cheeks, ray and chocolate fondant.

Tuesday, l'Express Francois Regis Gaudry picked as his resto of the week Le Pied a Terre in Bourges.

Wednesday, Emmanuel Rubin in Le Figaroscope reviewed his usual five new restaurants, giving 2 hearts to only one place this week: the contemporary BBQ place Le Charbon Rouge, 25, Rue Marbeuf in the 8th, 01.40.70.09.99, open 7/7, with lunch formulas of 15 and 23.50 and a la carte 40-50 € serving grilled squid, ceviche, entrecote of American beef and bavette/frites. one can have foie gras poele, Scots langoustines and figs as well as to the Indian Le Kaveri in Asnieres. The rest got 1/4 hearts: l’Inattendu, 99, rue Blomet in the 15th, 01.55.76.93.12, closed Saturday lunch and Sundays, costing 15.90 (lunch), 23 and 29 € for tete de veau, magret and prunes; the Italian-French Les Sourires de Dante in the 14th; the second American deli-hamburger place Razowski’s in Neuilly; and a “nouvelle Turkish” place Sizin Montmartre in the 9th.

The Dossier by Colette Monsat et al is devoted to a ranking of the best millefeuilles in Paris:
1. Stephane Vandermeersch
2. Patisserie de l’Eglise
3. Angelina, etc.

And Francois Simon for his “Hache Menu” dined at Carette, Number 6, in the 16th that has prices like the Bristol.

Wednesday, Richard Hesse, went to two places; Ratatouille and Tellus saying he’d go back to both because they are “a credit to their profession, turning out excellent food that is great value for money.” This is the first mention of Ratatouille I’ve seen; it’s coordinates are 168, rue Montmartre in the 2nd, across from Chez Georges, 01 40 13 08 80, 2-course lunch menu = 17 and dinner at 22, a la carte about 30 €.

Saturday in Le Figaro, Francois Simon in his “Croque-notes” reviewed Au Bascou where he called his dish an anthology.

Saturday/Sunday, in Bonjour Paris, Margaret Kemp wrote about the Metropolitan in the 16th and John Talbott wrote an essay entitled “The Perfect French Restaurant: Au Petit Marguery.”

Reviews of reviews: The Week of October 5th, 2009

This week’s Le Fooding review by Andrea Petrini was of Rue Le Bec in Lyon.

Tuesday in A Nous Paris, Jerome Berger gave 3/5 dots to Aux Provinces, 37, rue Cambronne in the 15th, 01.47.34.62.27, closed Saturday lunch and Sundays with menus at 18 (lunch), 24 and 36 E (dinner), serving stuffed guinea fowl, Belgian fries and a faux filet; while Philippe Toinard gave 3/5 dots to the creperie West Country Girl, coordinates in the 11th, given before.

Tuesday, l'Express published two reviews of restos under 30 E: Pierrick Jégu reviewed Tellus in the 2nd, full coordinates given before, where the 15 E lunch menu features items described as honest and without pretention, such as rabbit rillettes, cod and a brioche/apple dessert; meanwhile, Marie-Amal Bizalion wrote up the Château de Berne in Lorgues.

Wednesday, Emmanuel Rubin in Le Figaroscope reviewed reviewed his usual five new restaurants, giving 2 hearts to two places: 1, place Vendome, coordinates given in its name in the 1st, 0155.04.55.55, closed Saturday lunch and Sundays where for 70-80 € one can have foie gras poele, Scots langoustines and figs as well as to the Indian Le Kaveri in Asnieres. He gave one heart each to a fast-food off-shoot of the Maison de l’Aubrac – Aubrac Corner, 37, rue Marbeuf in the 8th, 01.45.61.45.35, closed weekends, serving (from 8-8) chopped beef, brioche, etc for about 10-15 € and the Italian La Focacceria des Vitelloni in the 3rd. A broken heart went to the pseudo-lounge, crypto-Italian Senso in the old Pourcel place Sens in the 8th.

The Dossier by Colette Monsat et al is devoted to the places in Paris featuring healthy food places:
Salmon
Kiku
Sprouts
Pousse-Pousse
Quinoa
Bob’s Kitchen
Beets
Bar du Park Hyatt Paris Vendome
Boudin noir
Les Papilles
Comptoir du Relais
Oysters
Goumard
Goji
Phyto Bar
Crudites
Cru
Carrots
Sesame
Tofu
Soya
Eggs
Coco & Co.
And also (superfood)
First and
Supernature where Francois Simon dined for 21.50 E for himself for his “Hache Menu.”

Wednesday, Richard Hesse, a UK-born but French-citizened adventuresome eater tried Razowski’s, supposedly the best American hamburger place in Paris and hated everything about it.

Saturday in Le Figaro, Francois Simon’s “Croque-notes” discussed herring at Chatillon and a less successful meal at La Matelote in Boulogne sur Mer.

Saturday/Sunday, in Bonjour Paris, Margaret Kemp wrote about the Le 144 Faubourg and John Talbott wrote an essay entitled “The Perfect French Bistro.”

Sunday, in the JDD, Aurelie Chaigneau gave four places to eat dinner in on Sundays: Le Comptoir de Relais, Mon Vieil Ami, Silk and Spice + La Coupole.

In the September-October Paris, a new magazine (4 E), Alexander Lobrano wrote a pretty tough overview of the Costes brothers restaurants. (Disclosure: I’m quoted).

Reviews of reviews: The Week of September 28th, 2009

Tuesday in A Nous Paris, Philippe Toinard gave 3/5 dots to Les Enfants Terribles in the 8th, coordinates given before, where he commented on the lettuce hearts, bio egg and pasta with parmesan; and Jerome Berger gave 2/5 dots to 114 Faubourg, coordinates also given before, where he essentially says that Eric Frechon has missed the fact that we’re in the midst of the Great Recession. The side-bar announces the opening of a new bistro Les Sourires de Dante, 37, rue Couedic in the 14th, 01.43.21.51.07, which they will report on later.

Wednesday, Emmanuel Rubin in Le Figaroscope reviewed his usual five new restaurants, giving 2 hearts to two places: Les Grandes Bouches, coordinates given before, where he had the pastille of confited goose, merou and a mi-cuit of chocolate and gingered-caramel; and Le Comptoir Baulois, 34, rue Godot-de-Mauroy in the 9th, 01.40.06.04.18, closed Sundays, with a slightly elevated addition (25-30 €) for ker-tapas, mackerel rillettes and a chocolate fondant. He awarded one heart to three others: Au rendez-vous du marché, 9, rue Lobineau in the 6th, 01 43 26 71 95, closed Sundays, lunch menu = 18 and carte about 25 €, where he had the herring, rabbit with carrots and lemon tart; the carafe wine bar’d Le Comptoir d’Alain le Sommelier, 5, rue Crillon in the 4th, 01.42.78.50.93, closed Saturdays, Sundays as well as dinner Monday-Wednesday, where he notes the antirecession bill of about 25-30 a la carte but menus at 17.50 (lunch) and 27 € (dinner) where he comments on the charcuterie plate, blanquette of veal and basque cheese. Finally he gave one heart to the Japanese Shiso in the 4th.

The Dossier by Colette Monsat et al is devoted to the new “boom” of tables d’hotes which include:
New
Le Barbezingue
Mama Shelter
Afaria
Nomiya
Tartes Kluger
Itineraires
Glou
Bon
Classics
Chez Michel
Granterroirs
La Famille
L’Epi Dupin
And always
Mon Vieil Ami
L’Ambassade d’Auvergne
La Cave de l’Os a Moelle
Le Pain Quotidien
Long bars
Lo Sushi
Novotel Paris Eiffel
Atelier Joel Robuchon
Les Cocottes
Garnier
Bar Laduree and
Grand Pan where where Francois Simon dined for 114 E for two for his “Hache Menu.”

This week, in L’Express, Pierrick Jégu reviewed as his place of the week, le Comptoir d’Alain le sommelier, coordinates given above and his team-mates covered Le Clos des Cours in Saintes, Le Verre de Terres in Colmar and Chhez Bruno in Dijon.

Saturday in Le Figaro, Francois Simon’s “Croque-notes” covered the green/SlowFoodish Le Jardins sauvages in Cournon.

Saturday/Sunday, in Bonjour Paris, Margaret Kemp wrote about the Chez Cecile, L’Escargot and Les Enfants Terribles and John Talbott wrote an essay entitled “The book by the door.”

Sunday, in the JDD, Astrid de T'Serclaes reviewed Mets Gusto in the 16th.

In October’s WHERE, Alexander Lobrano reviewed the Isse + Au Boeuf Couronne.

Reviews of Reviews: The Week of September 21st, 2009

Tuesday in A Nous Paris, Philippe Toinard gave 3/5 dots to Tellus in the 2rd, coordinates given before, where he liked the oeufs cocotte with honest foie gras, generous veal and brioche like French toast; and Jerome Berger gave 5/5 dots (a first in my recollection) to KGB, coordinates well-disseminated where he too loved the zors d’oeuvre, short ribs, mackerel and chocolate pot. In the sidebar they announce the transformation of l’Abadeche to the Franco-Italian BRG aka Bistro Resto Gusto which they will fully review later

Wednesday, Emmanuel Rubin in Le Figaroscope reviewed this weeks five places: giving 1/4 hearts to all five: Le 114 Faubourg, coordinates given last week where one dispenses 100 € for the likes of oeuf mayo with crab, cucumber soup, a joke of a salad and sole; the Italian Bella Genova in the 15th; a “why-not?” comptoir-cave Le Vin au Vert, coordinates given last week; the Basque Café Tolo, 3, rue Eugene-Varlin in the 10th, 01.42.05.22.51, closed Sunday dinner, Mondays and Tuesdays at dinner, lunch formulas = 12 and 15, a la carte 30-35 € for basque charcuterie, a bizarre axoa and gateau basque; and La Comete du Marais, 1, rue St Elizabeth in the 3rd, 01.42.74.10.18, closed Saturday lunch and Sundays, costing about 30 € for terrine de canard, rumsteak/frites and veal liver.

The Dossier by Colette Monsat et al is devoted to the new wave of Japanese places that includes:
Guilo Guilo
Isse
Hotaru
Kiyomizu
Momo Ni Ki
Rice & Fish
Youlin
Oto-Oto
Sous les cerisiers
Momoka
Zen
Shu
Usagi
Kiku by Francois Simon

In another article in ‘Scope , several writers, including Colette Monsat listed places up high; among them:
Nomiya
Jules Verne
Ciel de Paris
Le Zyriab
Les Ombres.

Wednesday, in L’Express, Francois-Regis Gaudry reviewed as his place of the week, the renovated l’Epi Dupin, coordinates well-known, where for 15 years chef François Pasteau has served food so very popular with Americans and Japanese visitors that it’s often full ; the lunch formula is 22 €, menu-carte: 33 €, menu dégustation: 48 €. It’s closed Saturdays and he liked the confit de canard pastilla, joue de bœuf, leeks with ginger, cod and rhubard crumble.


Saturday in Le Figaro, Francois Simon’s “Croque-notes” covered the Hôtel San Francisco in Auray in Brittany where Rodolphe Paquin of the Repaire de Cartouche and Bertrand Auboyneau of the Bistrot Paul Bert worked.

Saturday/Sunday, in Bonjour Paris, Margaret Kemp wrote about the Astor, Shu & KGB and John Talbott wrote an essay entitled “When the atmosphere is (almost) more important than the food.”

Reviews of reviews: The Week of September 15th, 2009

Monday in l’Express, Camille Wolff named as his resto for under 30 € the American smoothie/cocktail/bio/etc. Bob’s Kitchen in the 3rd.

Tuesday in Le Fooding, Frédérick-E. Grasser-Hermé reviewed Saison in Nice.

Tuesday in A Nous Paris, Philippe Toinard gave 3/5 dots to Les Fils a Maman in the 9th, coordinates given in my review, where he spends most of the review talking about Mom’s comfort food and precious little describing what he had; meanwhile, Jerome Berger reviewed and gave 3/5 dots to the “cave…[avec]….menu” Vin au Vert, 70, rue de Dunkerque in the 9th, 01 83 56 46 93, closed Sundays and Mondays, costing about 25 € for the usual wine bar stuff plus two specials (eg boudin noir).

Wednesday, Emmanuel Rubin in Le Figaroscope reviewed this weeks five places: giving 3/4 hearts to L’Astor, in the Hotel Astor St-Honore, 11, rue d’Astorg in the 8th, 01.53.05.05.20, closed weekends, with menus at 35 and 45, bar formulas for 31 and 35 and a la carte running one 70-80 € which is stiffer in the resto (chicken/foie gras and loin of lamb) and more nimble at the bar (vol-au-vent and citrus tarte). He gave 2/4 to the Japanese Kiku in the 9th and 1/4 to three places: l’Escargot Montorgueil, coordinates well-known, open 7/7, where a new team charges 50 € for lifeless eggs and over-cooked and calcified duck; the hamburger-breakfast, halfway between Harvard and the Hamptons H.A.N.D., 39, rue Richelieu in the 1st, 01.40.15.03.27, open 7/7 costing 15-20 €for items such as a fishburger tasting like pressed wood; and the Asiatic Ari in the 10th.

The Dossier by Colette Monsat et al is devoted to Sunday night dining:
Bistronomic
Le Comptoir du Relais
Le Café des Musées
Le Beaujolais d'Auteuil
L'Assiette
Microbrasseries
Cafe de l’Esplanade
Le Cafe de l’Alma
Le Zebra Square
La Veranda
The luxury liners
Le Boeuf sur Le Toit
Stella
Le Flandrin
Le Bistro de Breteuil
Chez Flottes
Nostalgic
Chardenoux
Benoit
La Fontaine de Mars
Astier
Le Pere Claude
With friends
La Cave de l’Os a Moelle
Mon Oncle
Glou
Breizh Café
Le Verre Vole
Chapeau Melon
Cosmopolitan
Enoteca
Casa Vigata
Fogon
Silk & Spice
Lao Lane II
Yam’Tcha
Starred restos
Le Bristol
Le Cinq
Le Jules Verne
L’Atelier de Joel Robuchon
Les Fables de la Fontaine
Francois Simon, in the same spirit, went to Mon Vieil Ami in the 4th, well-known by my readers and appropriately meriting his title “Mon Vieil Ami speaks American.”

In another article in ‘Scope , several writers, including Colette Monsat listed 25 places like home; among them:
Derrière
404
Andy Walhoo
Très Particulier
Salon du Panthéon
1728
Square Trousseau
Le Bar de la Gare
Used Book Café @ Merci
L'Apparemment Café

Wednesday as well, Richard Hesse in Paris Update wrote an enthusiastic review of La Boulangerie in the 20th.

Thursday, Francois Regis Gaudry reviewed KGB, coordinates now well-known and Friday briefly noted the opening of Le 114 Faubourg coordinates below, where three ate for 344 € (“too expensive?” “Yes.”) Apparently the full review appears in l’Express October 1st.

Friday, Jean Claude Ribaut discussed “Julie and Julia” and boeuf à la bourguignonne in Le Monde.

Saturday in Le Figaro, Francois Simon’s “Croque-notes” reviewed the eagerly-awaited “brasserie” at the Bristol called Le 114 Faubourg, Hôtel le Bristol, 114 rue du Faubourg-Saint-Honoré in the 8th, 01 53 43 44 44, where he largely gives prices of dishes (e.g., king crab oeuf mayo = 32 €, entrecote = 48 €) and his total bill for two = 243 €.

Saturday/Sunday, in Bonjour Paris, John Talbott wrote an essay entitled “Off-shoots, bistrots d’a cote, etc., update.”

Sunday, Alexander Lobrano weighed in on KGB – yes, very much and Les Enfants Terrible – terrible!

Reviews of reviews: The Week of September 8th, 2009

Monday in l’Express, Yves Nespoulous named as his resto for under 30 E as Le Verre de Terres in Colmar.

Tuesday, Philippe Toinard in A Nous Paris gave 3/5 dots to Un Des Sens, 10, rue de Cheroy in the 17th, 01.42.93.10.11, closed Sundays, lunch menu at 12, a la carte 23-28 E, serving Bellota, lomo, coppa, etc., and Jerome Berger awarded a similar 3/5 dots to Les Grandes Bouches, coordinates given before when they announced its opening in June, serving ox tail, rabbit and good wines on 16 and 30 € formulas every day but Sundays.

Tuesday in Le Fooding, Bruno Verjus reviewed the KGB aka Kitchen Galerie Bis, 25, rue des Grands-Augustins in the 6th, 01 46 33 00 85, closed Sundays and Mondays, with 27 and 34 lunch menus and 50-60 E a la carte, serving exotic and varied “zors-d’œuvres,” mains such as lacquered mackerel and a pot of chocolate;

Wednesday, Le Figaroscope Emmanuel Rubin reviewed his traditional five places awarding: 3/4 hearts to KGB, coordinates in my review, serving interesting hors d’oeuvres, lacquered mackerel and roast figs. Then he gave 2/4 to two places: the youngish French bistro Tellus, 4, rue du Mail in the 2nd, 01.40.20.40.04, closed Saturday lunch and Sundays, serving unpretentious food such as rabbit rillettes, veal chop and floating island for about 35 a la carte (15 € for the impeccable lunch formula) and the Sicilian Non Solo Cucina in the 16th. Then there were two that got ¼: Les Cinoches, 1, rue de Conde in the 6th, open 7/7, running one 50-70 € for veal Orloff, grilled tuna and avocado and sole with almonds and the grignotage Tartes Kluger in the 3rd, coordinates and description given before.

The Dossier by Elodie Rouge, Hugo de Saint-Phalle & Sylvain Vérut this week was devoted to Mediterranean places, including:
Les Delices d”Aphrodite
Le 404
Levant & Co
La Villa Corse
Paris-Main d’Or
Rosalito
Di Vino
Youmna’s
Le Zyriab
Le Comptoir de Tunesie
Le 2 sans 3
Chez Janou
Le Sud
Francois Simon, in the same spirit, went to Le Vinci in the 16th.

Wednesday as well, Richard Hesse in Paris Update wrote a glowing review of KGB.

Saturday in Le Figaro, Francois Simon’s “Croque-notes” wrote about Anne de Bretagne in La Plaine-sur-Mer Le Prieure.

Saturday/Sunday, in Bonjour Paris, Margaret Kemp wrote about the Cap d’Antibes Beach Hotel & Spa and John Talbott wrote an essay entitled “Eating in August.”

Saturday-Sunday, Nicholas Lander in the FT, reported on the Auberge de Chassignolles in the Auvergne.

Reviews of reviews: The Week of August 31st, 2009

Tuesday, in Le Figaro, Francois Simon wrote an article on the musical chairs now going on among famous chefs, mentioning that Didier Elena is leaving Les Crayeres for La Chevre d’Or where Philippe Labbe leaves for the Shangri-La in Paris and Jean-Francois Piege left le Crillon.

 

Tuesday in Le Fooding, Julie Gerber reviewed the Tartes Kluger, 6, rue du Forez in the 3^rd, 01.53.01.53.53, open 7/7 since July, serving 10 tartes salées and 8 sucrées with various toppings that are not “ultra-gourmand,” 15 E for a small one, 25 E for a big one.

 

Tuesday in A Nous Paris, Philippe Toinard gave 3/5 dots to l’Heteroclyte, ex-Autodidactes, 9, place Jean Zay in Levallois, 01.47.9.54.02, lunch menu 14.50 E, closed weekends, serving a cappuccino of mussels and leeks, Thai beef salad, black cod and pineapple tartare while Jerome Berger reviewed the ephemeral (until October) Café de l’Odeon in front of the theater of the same name in the 6^th, no phone, open 7/7, running one about 35 E for a carpaccio of heirloom tomatoes, gravelax and a white peach concoction.

 

Wednesday, Le Figaroscope starts off with an article on the 50 persons who show the most promise in various fields; in cuisine, it includes: Sylvain Sendra, Makoto Aoki, Daniel Rose, Contran Cherrier, Sebastien Bauer, Sven Chartier (Les Racines) and Adeline Grattard.  Continuing,  Emmanuel Rubin reviews his traditional five places awarding: 2/4 hearts to Les Enfants Terribles, coordinates given last week, where he mentions the sole and baba, 2/4 to the Japanese Kiyomizu, 2/4 to the Spanish Rosalito, ¼ to the Caribbean Lin pour l’Hote and ¼ for the Italian Alfio.  The Dossier by Colette Monsat et al is devoted to fancy gouters at:

Le Park Hyatt Vendome

Le Dali

Le Bristol

L’Absinthe

Le Grand Colbert

Helene Darraze, La Brasserie du Publisdrugstore

ZenZoo

Laduree

Berko Angelina +

Tea for two.

Francois Simon, in the same spirit, went to Bonpoint.

 

Saturday in Le Figaro, Francois Simon’s “Croque-notes” covered Le Prieure in Ambierle.

Saturday/Sunday, in Bonjour Paris, John Talbott wrote an essay entitled “Cheap meals: Sandwiches or Substance.” 

Sunday, in the JDD, Astrid T’Serclaes reviewed Caffe dei Coppi and Aurelie Chaigneau wrote an article on the 1000E meal at Cuisine Creative both of whose coordinates have already been given.

 

In September’s WHERE, Alexander Lobrano reviewed the Makassar, Chartier,  Le Reminet + Le Bistro Volnay and elsewhere in the magazine were reviews of  Les Bouquinistes, Le Chiberta + Le Jardin d’Ampere.