Monday-Tuesday, in A Nous Paris, Jerome Berger reviewed and gave 3/5 dots to the previously mentioned Sauvage; while Philippe Toinard reviewed and gave 2/5 dots to the previously-mentioned Table d’Ugo in the 17th.
Tuesday in Le Fooding, Yves Nespoulous wrote up the previously mentioned Heimat, 37, rue de Montpensier in the 1st, 01.40.26.78.25, closed weekends, costing 36-50 E for items such as chicory shoots, rigatoni, code and sorbets.
Wednesday in Figaroscope, in Emmanuel Rubin’s Hache Menu he reviewed (and awarded 3 hearts to) Guy Savoy’s L’Huitrade, 13, Rue Troyon in the 17th, 01.44.09.95.85, closed Sundays and Mondays, serving oysters that will run you 26-48 E for 8. He also reviewed the 3-heart Bouillon, 47, rue de Rochechouart in the 9th, 09.51.18.66.59, closed Sundays and Mondays, serving eggs with truffles, a doube of beef and apple tart (14 E for the plat du jour but 60 E for a meal. Then he covered 3 2-hearters: the previously mentioned La Faille in the 2nd, Le Triangle, 13, rue Jacques-Louvel-Tessier in the 10th, 01.71.39.58.02, closed Sundays & Mondays, with menus at 17 and 22 E at lunch and 15-25 E tapas at night with items such as salad and spicy sausages, salmon and apple crumble; and Sinople auKlay, 4 bis, rue Saint-Sauveur in the 2nd, 01.40.26.69.66, closed Sunday night costing 50-60 E for a perfect egg, duck breast and apple soufflé. Worthy of only one star was the burger place Garnett in the 17th.
In addition Alice Bosio wrote about 5 mini-restos that included: Le Verre Vole sur Mer Oka La Cave a Michel 6036 Boot Cafe
And Colette Monsat, Alice Bosio and Hugo de Saint-Phalle covered various types of raviolis: Gyoza Bar II-Le Marais Mandoobar Pierre Sang on Gambey La Taverne de Zhao La Maison de The Miss Ko Dim Sum Cantine Lili au Peninsula
Wednesday, also, Heidi Ellison in Paris Update reviewed the aforementioned Table d’Ugo quite negatively.
So you've always wondered how I chance on places. Well, tonight, Colette was feeling out of sorts and before leaving for the USA wanted some soup. Ok. Ummm. Down the street there's this place our cherished downstairs neighbor rec'd. I look it up - whoohee; Quentin Tarantino’s Inglourious Basterds sanded here.
The setting is indeed a movie setting and we treated it as a movie set.
So a bit of wine, soup and charcuterie 50 meters from home? Bill 33.80E.
The Maison de l'Amerique Latine has two special exhibitions; an installation by Emma Malig and a lot of photos by the French-Venezuelan Carlos Cruz-Diez which range from candid photographs of the exuberant Alexander Calder to depressing Dorothea Lange-like photos of Mexican folks. I'm not sure I got the piano-wire globe by the Chilean artist Emma Malig.
La Maison de l'Amerique Latine in the 7th, is, despite its name, not a purveyor of fish tacos and salsa (except in its cantine/cafe) but a server-up of very "adult" French food. Indeed, it is a very fancy, white table-cloth joint with two very reasonably priced "menus" and a spectacular garden, best enjoyed in June and October.
Colette having been stricken with the horrible coughing disease, I ventured on with my good friend S. to puzzle over what to have after a lovely glass of Gewürztraminer, splendid bread and an amuse of pumpkin, chestnut and tapioca soup. She settled on another veloute, this of artichokes and Jerusalem artichokes and I went with the ceviche of dorade with guacamole, both quite lovely.
For mains, my friend had the joue de boeuf with a rick brown wine sauce and a puree with butter and I had a "daurade" (Huh? Different from the 1st course "dorade?" "OK.") with artichokes and a barigoule sauce. Again both very adult, sophistocated and delicious.
We shared a dessert of poached quince with a caramel sauce and fromage blanc ice cream. our bill with a bottle of Argentinian Cab and two coffees but not bottled water was 135 E.
Monday-Tuesday, in A Nous Paris, Jerome Berger reviewed the previously mentioned AG as well as the gluten-free Nous, 16, rue de Paradis in the 10th, open 8-22 (closed Sundays) chicken and rice, soups, morteau sausage and banana “bread” and gave 3/5 dots to Martin, 24, bd du Temple in the 11th, 018.104.22.168, closed Saturday lunch, Sundays and Monday dinner, where for 12, 15 and 18 E at lunch one has items such as mackerel, magret and lemon tart and 25 E at dinner for tapas; while Philippe Toinard reviewed and gave 4/5 dots to the previously-mentioned Nakatani in the 7th.
This week in Le Fooding, Yves Nespoulous wrote up the hipster Asiatic place Siseng in the 10th.
Wednesday in Figaroscope, in Emmanuel Rubin’s Hache Menu he reviewed the Ancienne MaisonGardette, 8, rue du Faubourg-Poissonniere in the 10th, 01.47.70.03.23 where for 30-40 E one can have good beef and fries. He also reviewed 3 2-heart places: Zebulon, 10, rue de Richelieu in the 1st, 01.42.36.49.44, closed Sundays, where on a 20 E lunch formula or 45 E dinner menu one has items such as a game tart, venison and a sable; Martin, see above; and the “Kitty-Food”Japanese place Atsu Atsu in the 2nd. Getting only 1 heart was the Thai Kapunka II in the 2nd and a busted heart the Italian Carabinieri in the 10th.
In addition Alice Bosio & Colette Monsat tested the best Galettes des Rois in Paris deeming Sebastien Gaudard’s the best.
And In Wednesday's Figaroscope came news of 11 restaurant events at: Hexagone - which opened last week at 83-85, avenue Kléber in the 16th Les Fees Patissieres - now also at 105, av. Victor-Hugo in the 16th Shangri-La - where Christophe Moret (ex-Lasserre) takes over as chef executif Da Rosa - in February also at 44, rue du Four in the 6th Heimat - Pierre Jancou's return at 37, rue Montpensier in the 1st January 12th Huabu - Kristin Frederick (Le Camion qui fume, Freddie's Deli) delves into Chinese street food at 67, rue du Faubourg-Poissonnière in the 9th January 20th Gilles Stassart - (Transversal au MacVal, Nomiya au Palais de Tokyo), opens a yet-to-be-named-bistro on the rue Daguerre in the 16th in February A. Noste - expands at the end of February to make more take-out space Frederic Hubig (Astier, Jeanne A, Jeanne B, Sassotondo) - opens Marée Jeanne 3, rue Mandar in the 2nd Yam’Tcha - moves into bigger space in March at 121, rue Saint-Honoré in the 1st. Guy Savoy - moves into La Monnaie the end of the first trimester at 11, quai de Conti in the 6th.
Wednesday, also, Heidi Ellison in Paris Update reviewed the aforementioned 52 Faubourg Saint Denis.
Thursday, in L’Express, François-Régis Gaudry reviewed the previously mentioned Gare au Gorille.
Saturday, in Figaro, Alice Bosio, Colette Monsat and Hadrien Gonzales noted that while waiting for the Michelin to appear Feb 2, Ducasse, Alleno, Le Squer, Eric Briffard, JL Nomicos, Constant, Robuchon/Magrez, Piege, Costes and Pacaud have been in motion; Christophe Moret is (as was stated above) taking over at the Shangri-La, Adrien Trouilloud at Lasserre. Savoy is finally settling in at La Monniae, Hexagone is opening, Akrame is opening a new Vivanda in the Marais in April, Grattard (see above) is moving, Jancou is opening (see above) and Etchebest is opening a place back in the Gironde. In addition, several folks are openings restos in London: Aizpitarte, Chaignot, Le 110 de Taillevent; and New York – Pic, Robuchon and Westermann. The chefship at the renovated Ritz has yet to be announced.
Sunday in the JDD, Francois Lemaire reviewed the previously mentioned Le Timbre in the 6th and Aurelie Chaigneau reviewed her usual 3 places giving 9/10 to Clover, previously mentioned, 6.5 to the Table d’Ugo, 3, blvd Pershing in the 17th, 01.45.72.56.56, closed Saturday lunch and Sundays which has a 25 E lunch formula and 35 and 50 E menus at night with items such as sole, scallop carpaccio made by a 24-year old chef; and 7/10 to Lucien la Chance, 8, rue des Dames in the 17th, 09.73.52.07.14, closed lunch and Sundays, costing 30-4- E for a parsnip soup, boudin noir and chocolate mousse.
52 Faubourg St Denis in the 10th impressed me most today by its ability to serve exciting, different forms of food in unusual ways.
The firsts we shared were a tartare of oysters and scallops in a warm mushroom sauce and sauteed chicken livers with a sweet potato puree and balsamic, pistachio, tagine sauce covered with a wafer.
Those were interesting enough but our mains were outside the envelope; coq au vin and rabbit - no big deal, eh? Non. Big deal. Both deconstucted; the chicken came as a rollatine with confited potatoes, mushrooms, bacon and a garlic/parsley sauce; the rabbit with a really really good risotto, cuttlefish-chorizo and rosemary .
Desserts were also different and deconstructed; a clafoutis of pear and ginger, allspice and sesame ice cream and chocolate, clementines and confited kumquat.
Our bill with 2 bottles of wine, one of filtered fizzy and 4 coffees, was 188.70, this 94.35 E a couple.