Le Marloe in the 8th has been a standout place ever since it opened and its host Eric Martins, one of the nicest guys in the business. But he's not only nice, he hustles and has impressed on his staff this more American than French trait, taking orders, overseeing, delivering plates, busing and waiting on whatever table, inside or outside, needs attending to. It's impressive. Anyway, after perusing the menu, I was seduced by the special, but I'm getting ahead of myself.
I ordered the fried gambas in Panko which were gold standard. The for mains, Colette had the bar with white asparagus and choron sauce (béarnaise with tomato paste) and I the encornets with fregola (not fragola which I always see it as) "cooked like paella".
Colette finished this fine meal off with a dessert of poached peaches with ice cream - a perfect ending.
Our bill, with a bottle and glass of Chinon, no bottled water but 2 coffees, was 134.80 E.
6.0 L'Accolade, 208, rue de la Croix-Nivert in the 15th, 01.45.57.73.20, closed Saturday lunch, Sundays and Monday dinners (Metro: Convention and a schlep) is sited in the space where Jadis pumped out some interesting food; as my review in 2008 said, chef Guillaume Delage "had an astounding idea – cook today’s best products in yesterday’s style" – well, something happened to that great idea and we'll await his reappearance. For the present, though, we arrived and ordered up one red and one white Gascogne, knowing our guests' predilections and got ready to order.
Two of us ordered the raviolis (don't take that literally) of beets with fresh goat cheese; my one buddy had petit pois, girolles and a perfect egg; and I had what I thought was the winner - a shrimp tartare with various veggies but delicious avocado.
For mains, the swordfish with a carrot puree was a standout, the 33 hour poitrine de porc was pretty good too; but my minute of lamb was cooked more than that despite my request it be cut in half so it would be blue.
For desserts we had the sable Breton with lemon cream and strawberries which was good but head and shoulders above everything else today was the millefeuille with vanilla and caramel beurre sale, Wow, 5 stars. So good that Colette stole most of my caramel.
Our bill with two bottles and a glass of wine, no bottled water but 3 coffees, was 204.40 E for 4 or 102.20 E a couple.
Go back? Well my friends in the nabe for sure but me, due to the schlep, I dunno.
Pirouette in the 1st is a place we never tire of, both because of the terrific welcome, attention and wine selection but because Tomy Gosset's cooking is so wonderful and bright (Warning: he'll not be here come the fall; watch this space for an update). We walked by the menu of the day (20E for two semi-forced dishes) and went instead for the 45 E for 3 dishes off the carte.
For firsts, 3 of us went for the girolles with tomato, pineapple and ricotta and for mains 3 chose the Pornac pigeon with zucchini, onions, pesto and coques; one going with the maigre with leeks (unpictured).
Desserts were the gorgeous ("best in my life") Ossau-Iraty and Espuma Citron with mango ice cream and kiwi fruit, good as well.
Our bill with two bottles of wine, 1 bottle of Chateldon and 4 coffees was 244 E or 122 E a couple.
Monday, in A Nous Paris, there were three reviews of restaurants already mentioned here: Philippe Toinard gave 3/5 dots to Nubé and Le Moulin de laGalette and Jerome Berger gave 3/5 to Les Oreilles et La Queue.
Then Tuesday in Le Fooding, there was an article featuring the Italian pizzeria Tripletta in the 20th.
Wednesday, in Paris Update, Huidi Ellison reviewed positively Fulgurances in the 11th.
Thursday, in Le Point, Alvina Ledru-Johansson reviewed the Breton Le Cézembre d'Anthony Hamon, 17, rue Grégoire-de-Tours, in the 6th, 09.67.57.25.08, lunch menus at 24 and 28, dinner 28 and 45 E, closed Mondays and Tuesdays, serving crustacians and fish as well as fresh fruits of the season ; Charles Patin O’Coohoon reviewed Jais, 3, rue Surcouf, in the 7th, 01.45.51.98.16, open 7/7, running one 45 E a la carte for items such as A pâté en croûte au foie gras, « poulpe crispy » and lamb’s sweetbreads ; Mina Soundiram reviewed the previously mentioned Cazes in the 18th, and Francois Regis Gaudry mentioned Le Clos de Sens in Annecy-Le-Vieux.
In the JDD, Aurelie Chaigneau reviewed the Japanese Sushi B in the 2nd (9/10) and the Italian Caffe dei Cioppi in the 11th (9/10).
Le Bistrot du Maquis in the 18th has become our nearby go-to Sunday lunch place for some while. It has never disappointed and today was no exception.
To start off Colette had a melon soup, souped up with ginger so it sparkled (she loved it!); I had a large portion of sautéed girolles that was just simply over-the-moon; and the Chef then sent out an in-between dish of partially cooked tuna that had a fabulous sauce.
For mains, we both chose off the daily specials board: Colette the monkfish with a very good olive sauce and I sweetbreads on a bed of peas and sliced marinated mushrooms - delicious.
For dessert Colette loved her clafoutis of apricots and I adored my soup of rhubarb; both of us also were appreciative of the biscuits that came with the coffee.
Our bill, with a bottle and glass of wine, no bottled water and two coffees, was 161 E (but to be fair if you take off the 49 E in supplements and extra wine it comes in at 112 E but who wants to miss out on girolles or sweetbreads?) NOTE the restaurant was busy and there was only one server, the Chef's delightful wife who is as efficient as anyone could be. We wished there had been a second person to help serve so the wait-times for courses would have been less.
AG Les Halles opened it seems just last week, and already was packed to the gills by the time we left. I made reservations in my real name (hey - I only hide my first visit) on line and apparently Alain Geean spied the rez and swamped us with treats and coupes of…. before we’d even ordered. Can I recall them all? No? But they certainly included:
A platter of truffle-flavored salami encased in parmesan (a true Geean innovation) A crisp leaf composed of rice and squid ink and beets (ditto) Succulent foccia-like rounds with EVOO and spices A platter of aged jamon A mousse/fluff
And then what we ordered: - Rillettes of duck - Gravlax - XYZ cant remember) - Daurade with black rice that had an incredibly delicious tasty flesh and skin & a light green sauce that was 'lemony' - an outstanding dish! - Quasi de veau - Tigre (the choicest pieces of beef) with new potatoes - A “no cheese” cheesecake, and - A roasted fig.
Our bill (remember, the champagne, apero treats, house-bottled water and other stuff was comp’d) with a bottle and glass of wine and three coffees, was 151.50 E for 4, thus 75.75 E a couple. We'll be back soon!
5.0 Tondo, 29, rue de Cotte in the 12th (in the former Gazzatta space), 01.43.47.47.05, closed Sundays, Mondays and Tuesday & Wednesday at lunch (Metro: Ledru-Rollin) has had more anticipatory cyber-buzz than I've heard for a place in quite a while. Certainly the chef (Simone Tondo) has had a stellar history (Mirazur, Rino, Gazzetta & Roseval) and is much beloved by folks I respect; therefor, going to Tondo was a foregone conclusion.
The lunch "menu" is 3 forced choice entrees and 1 plat chosen from 3 possibilities for 25 E and at dinner 6 forced choices for 60 E; we plunged in to dishes named a tuna (with cherries), tempura of pleurotte with a bagna of garlic, capers, anchovies and parsley and a "Roseval" of mousse with shrimp. They were OK but barely.
Originally 3 of us ordered the poularde and Colette the merlu, but I said "let me have the gnocchis" so we can try everything - big mistake. It was so utterly unexciting I asked for pepper and parmesan, instead came pepper and salt. The chicken was somewhat better but the fish also rather bland - the Swiss chard, zucchini and beets didn't add much either.
I was about to give up on Tondo and Tondo until dessert came - both the clafoutis and orange cake were superb (in a note in atabula.com it says Mari-Jo, the ex-patissiere for Peter Nilsson was responsible for the bread and maybe these desserts as well.)
Our bill, with 2 bottles of A Toi Nous wine, one San Pelligrino and 4 coffees was 198.50 E or 99.25 E a couple. The noise level was a ear-drum piercing 88.4 dB or what street noise in Gulmandi, India is at 6 PM.
Go? Not me but if you go count on dessert to save the meal.
Papillon in the 17th is another place (like Louis), that at full moon, is packed to the gills. At the start though, 12h20 when we arrived, it was grey, calm Zen, cool; we were greeted warmly by the staff and rapidly by the genius behind Papillon, Christophe Saintagne, described by Pudlo as un "ancien chef trois étoiles de la galaxie Alain Ducasse." We sat down, got some water and perused the carte and menu. I was not taken by either but knew, once we ordered we'd be beautifully fed.
We both went with fish as our mains, skipping an entrée; Colette with a slice of St Pierre with spinach leaves, red onions and creamy lemon sauce and I had the "menu" lieu jaune with new potatoes and a puree of riquette (wild rocket); meanwhile we're watching the "street theatre" outside, wherein couples and 3-some's approach, look at the offerings posted in the window, enter, are told "they're full, but there are these cool seats next door at Saintange's partner Laura Portelli's Garde-Manger", which they are directed to, where Saintange is cleaning the tables, moving the chairs, setting tables, busing them, serving; meanwhile the restaurant marches on like a smooth running machine. BTW, Portelli has neat dishes to go on offer and there's nothing better for a light supper.
For dessert, Colette had the raspberries and sorrel ice cream that was rather blah, unfortunately, and I had their great chocolate cake with a great crusty crust. We ended with their hot madeleines and coffee.
With a bottle and glass of wine, self-filtered water, terrific bread our billwas 110 E (one Euro less than that at our disappointing meal yesterday - Go figure.)
PS. Our wait-guy remembered my complaints at the noise level on prior visits and assured us the work putting up another ceiling would be done by the time we returned.
5.0 Restaurant 24, 24 rue Jean-Mermoz in the 8th, 01.42.56.24.94, closed Saturday lunch and Sundays (Metro: FDR), is a place our guest who is in the biziness asked me how I'd discovered. Now this is a common question, usually asked with a frown or eyebrows raised or fingers crossed. "Oh I saw something on the web, then Rubin gave it a rare 3 hearts, so....." It has the by now standard gun metal grey exterior, luxe interior and a carte whose prices exceed my budget - but the menus are affordable - 28 E for 2 courses, 32 E for 3 at lunch.
The restaurant started off on two wrong feet; our friend had ordered a glass of white wine and it came straight from the frigo with a refrigerator taste plus the daily menu, printed a few hours before, already had a substitution - a beet salad replaced the gravlax all three of us desired - Colette bravely and grumpily ordered it saying "two vegetarian entrees, not good." Our friend asked for her wine to be replaced and then she and I ordered the asparagus. But first came a refreshing but blah gazpacho. And then unexciting asparagus - but wait - Colette got salmon, after all. Our friend said the equivalent of "wha" and negotiated another order of salmon and we soldiered on.
All three of ordered the daurade royale with artichokes, which were boring and the poached peach was much the same.
Our bill with a bottle and 2 glasses of wine, a small bottled water, good warm bread and butter and 3 coffees was 168 E 3, thus 112 E a couple.
Go? Not until I hear some rave reviews other than Mr. Rubin.