Monday, in A Nous Paris, Jerome Berger gave 3/5 dots to Rae’s in the 2nd, where a Japanese chef cooks fusion food from pasta to sandwiches to crème catalan. His colleague, Philippe Toinard gave the same to a tea room plus Un Dimanche a Paris, 4/6/8 cour du Commerce Saint-Andre in the 6th, closed Sunday nights, Mondays and Tuesday lunch, 01.56.81.18.18, featuring tartelettes in the morning and early afternoon and items such as sweetbreads, haddock and a grapefruit/pepper tart afterwards, on menus of 25 and 29E at lunch.
Tuesday in Le Fooding, Tina Meyer reviewed La Louve, an Italian bistro in the 9th.
Wednesday, in Figaroscope, Emmanuel Rubin reviewed his usual 5 new restaurants, which included four that merited 4 stars: the previously mentioned Les Arlots in the 10th; the Argentinian restaurant Loco; the ramen-focusedKodawariin the 6th; and Korean Jules et Shim in the 10th. The Portuguese dinette Donantonia in the 10th received only one.
Rubin’s Hache Menu this week covered Les Bols de Jean in the 2nd, opened since September, where the tele-chef Jean Imbert serves various dishes in pastry “bowls.”
In that spirit, Colette Monsat and Alice Bosio wrote about and rated the best loaves of bread and deemed Anthony Bosson of L’Essentiel in the 13th the winner and Landemaine in the 11th #2.
Also Wednesday, Heidi Ellison in Paris Update reviewed the previously mentioned Le Petit Keller, 13 rue Keller, in the 11th, 01.43.55.90.54, closed Sundays and Mondays, finding the food OK but the presentations lacking.
Thursday in L’Express there was a review of the Brazilian Coffee Shop in Nice.
Monday-Tuesday in A Nous Paris there was a review (3/5 dots) of Champeaux under the Canopee in Les Halles, reviewed here 8 days ago.
Tuesday, Le Fooding had a review of the Restaurant Isak X Café Marché in Nice.
Wednesday, Emmanuel Rubin’s Hache Menu covered Une Affaire de Famille in the flea market Saint-Ouen where he says one might go on a weekend.
And, in his reviews of 5 new places this week he gave 3 hearts to one of the best Chinese restaurants in Paris – Chez Tonton in the 6th; then 2 got 2 hearts: the previously reviewed Fichon in the 18th and La Demesure, 43, rue Faubourg Montmartre in the 9th, 01.48.24.49.53 closed Saturday lunch and Sundays where for the 14.50 E lunch formula and carte running you can have items such as lentil salad, mussels with curry and frites and tempura haricots. Getting only one heart was the Tunisian Comptoir de Tunisie in the 1st and a broken heart went to LaMercerie in the 6th.
Also Wednesday, in Le Figaroscope, Alice Bosio and Colette Monsat wrote up and rated new places that feature brunch: 9/10 Hardware Societe Hotel Grand Amour Liza Brasserie Thoumieux Uptown Poppy Paris Rosemary Marlon
Also Wednesday, Heidi Ellison in Paris Update reviewed the previously mentioned Le Bouchon et L’Assiette in the 17th.
In L’Express, they announced the abrupt departure of Joel Robuchon from La Grande Maison in Bordeaux and Francois-Regis Gaudry reviewed La Villa Gabrielle in Deauville; while Mina Soundiram covered the vegetarian Le Potager de Charlotte, 12 rue de la Tour d’Auvergne in the 9th, 01.44.65.09.63, closed Monday and Tuesday, where on the menu of 25 E one can sample items such as a hard-boiled egg, rice pancakes and roast pear and the Italian Merrigio, also in the 9th.
6.6 Les Arlots (no it's not an abbreviation of harlots but of harlequins), 136, rue du Faubourg Poissonnière in the 10th, 01.42.82.92.01, closed Sundays and Mondays, has gotten rave reviews in the cybersphere and from two friends so when my pal Pierre 45 and his wife arrived, I thought it ideal. As you can see, they speak English, and indeed did to us, freely. I started off ordering the sausage and entrecote thinking they were a 1st and Main, but no, both were mains. So I just ordered the entrecote, Blue of course, which threw our waitress back a bit - "Bleu?" she said "Oui bleu!" I said.
My two eating pals had ordered the asparagus soup with a perfect egg and thin toast and I took a soup spoon to Madame's and gasped "I want one too." It was terrific.
Then my friends had the croquettes of cod with lime and tartare and the shredded confited pork with cheesy blettes (both very good) while I luxuriated in a very nicely sourced and cooked ("BLUE") entrecote.
For desserts we decided to share the crumble of caramelized apples and "Milanese de la madre del jefe", explained as between a cheesecake and flan, with sauces of rhubarb and strawberries - both terrific.
With 1 bottle and 1/2 of Pinot Noir of Languedoc, no bottled water, decent bread and 2 coffees, our bill was 73.86 E a couple.
Go? Why not? It's moderately undiscovered except by tattooed Brooklyn tweens and serves season food at screamingly reasonably prices.
Gros, coordinates given when I ate here in August, is a place I went back to, now 8 months plus later, because a trusted friend told me to go back, something was new. But as I approached it, it looked the same - across from Lucky Luciano and Tom's wifi Café, inhabiting the old cursed Café Blah Blah space, scraped wall décor, without an exciting "menu." When I asked an old friend to go she said "I wouldn't be caught dead in a place with that name", and I thought it was because gros=fat, but she explained in slang gros=bro or buddy. I finally convinced her and we both looked at the "menu" and almost bugged out.
She ordered up a "perfect egg" with bacon and watercress puree that was very good and my vichyssoise with coquillages was outstanding. So far so good.
Both of us then had the so-called fish soup, which although it came with the requisite toast, rouille and shaved cheese, was not the usual pulverised in a blender concoction, but rather more accurately could have been called beautifully cooked fish (rouget my pal posited) laid on top of potato slices with a sauce of crustaceans. This was really good and prompted Madame to say "This is serious food."
We then decided to each have one of the chocolate desserts: she the "pudding" and I the cubes and here we came to Napoleon's Waterloo; neither was much of a much. Later as she was asking about the chef's origin's etc., our wait-person said they had two chefs cooking the food and a pastry chef devoted to desserts - I thought my gastronomic friend was going to fall in a feint. Someone dedicated to desserts coming up with such mediocre stuff when the others in the cuisine were turning out magic?
When my dining friend, just back from a wine week that will become a book, looked at the wine list, she said "I like the structure of this list" into Fruit, Structure, Douceur and we had a fine bottle of Dolcetto d'Alba, which along with a glass of Cheverny, no bottled water, quite decent bread and 2 coffees, resulted in a bill of 89.80 E.
8.25 3B (Brasserie Boulogne Billancourt), 33, avenue du General Leclerc in Boulogne-Billancourt, 92, opened about 6 weeks ago after a move from LesMagnolias (1*) in Le Perreux-Sur- Marne. For years, maybe decades, the starred chef, Jean Chauvel, has been rumored to be looking for a new place closer to the center of Paris - well this is the center of Boulogne-Billancourt, so it's a step in the right direction. I went with a learned Professor, who was willing to try it on my say so. The lunch menu is 26 E for 2 courses, 34 E for 3, which is slightly less than his 2014 formula of 41E at the old haunt.
We both ordered the "menu" although a la carte was only a bit more (41-48 E) and we were very happy. For firsts my friend ordered the "brown" mushroom fricassee with an egg and herbes folles (the wild grass not the film) and I had a large mound of poulpe au Sate ensevelis d'Aromes (the tiny multi-colored carrots, tomato sauce (I think) and cilantro came together in a delightful manner), indeed both dishes were outstanding.
For mains we both chose the lightly sautéed daurade on top of runny eggplant with what I thought was a curry sauce but turned out to be Espelette. They also were superb; as was the unexpected pre-dessert of a mound of cotton candy lightly flavored with peppermint.
Desserts were a moelleux of chocolate with passion sorbet and a reworked pain perdu, reworked as a circle with a tuile on top and surrounded by crème brulee and vanilla ice cream.
Our bill, with a bottle and two glasses of wine, no bottled water and one coffee, was 104.50 E. dB's = 87.8
6.6 Champeaux under La Canopée in Les Halles in the 1st, technically 12 passage de la Canopee or around the corner from the Porte Rambuteau, open 7/7, 01.53.45.84.50 is a bit hard to find but is well worth the search. While Emmanuel Rubin made great sport of the airport-like waiting room air of the place, and indeed the display panel of dishes rattles too much like an airport one, the space is airy and surprisingly, despite it being full with 160 customers, it was noise baffled enough to permit easy talking (dB = 84.5). A less judgmental picture was described by Hadrien Gonzales two weeks before.
The French friend I've had the longest was just back from baby-sitting 5 young'uns in Normandy and decided to start with the snails with sorrel and raifort (couldn't taste the latter) and champignons de Paris on crusty rye bread while I had an almost deconstructed onion soup; wherein the bread and cheese came separate from the onion soup - I thought both our firsts were a cut above bib brasserie standards.
For a main, Madame went with what it would take a lot of time to prepare at home - a vol-au-vent, and I had lamb shoulder that was as under-cooked as possible under the circumstances, with epeautre vert (spelt and an intense green sauce); both dishes again were above standard for a big brasserie.
We split the dessert - a house-made chocolate mousse, again above standard.
Our bill, with a bottle of Chinon, decent bread and three coffees, no bottled water, was 115 E.
Go? If stuck nearby on a Sunday, when Pirouette and AG Les Halles are closed, indeed.
Anything amiss John? Well, yes, the amuse bouche couldn't hold up to the rest of the meal, but hey that's a small matter.
6.0 Panache, 1 rue Geoffroy-Marie in the 9th, 01.47.70.85.87, closed Sundays, is located in an old Jewish bakery in this section of the 9th that a pair/couple of translators I know, knew from a past era. Next door is the Hotel Panache, formerly the Hotel Madrid, and the bakery was taken over by David Lanher, the restaurateur behind Racines, Racines 2, Racines New York, Caffé Stern and Le Bon Saint-Pourçain and is eye-poppingly new. My friends prefer to walk to and from lunch and work before and afterwards, so I keep a separate list of places for us in which to dejeune. We did a little bit of negotiating over what to choose, as the place began to fill with hipsters and Bobo's and geeks, whom my friends tell me have become overlapping categories - anyway sitting at the comptoir eating with brilliant red headphones on, surely puts you in at least one of them.
So, one of us started with the carpaccio of cooked veal with a sweet cream of anchovies and red beets; her husband had the soft egg with ail des ours ("Allium ursinum – known as ramsons, buckrams, wild garlic, broad-leaved garlic, wood garlic, bear leek or bear's garlic.....a wild relative of chives native to Europe", sez Wikipedia), watercress and bacon; and I had the warm lentils with mackerel and an orange Bergamote sauce; all quite nice.
As mains one of us had and shared the pork ribs with BBQ sauce and the other two had terrific pieces of cod, cooked to perfection - oddly the chef Paul Landre (whom we later learned was American, but perhaps not from a state where BBQ is done low and slow), cooked neither the leeks nor ribs til they were supple. For finals we shared one portion of a terrific almond cake with confited pears and a tarte of seasonal fruits.
Our bill, with a bottle and glass of Foulards Rouges, two coffees and average bread, was 113.00 E or 75.33 E a couple. dB= 88.1
Go? This is a tough call. I'd say given the locovore slant, good producers and mixture of flavors - yes, and I trusted the waiter when he told us the chef had taken our comments to heart.