Monday-Tuesday, in A Nous Paris, Jerome Berger reviewed and gave 3 dots to the newly renewed LesAffranchis, same address, etc, now run by two ex-Ambrosie‘s, closed Mondays, with menus at 32 (lunch) and 40 E (diner) containing items such as petit pois soup, veal cheeks and a brioche; and Philippe Toinard gave 1 dot and much criticism to La Poudriere, in Issy, 01.46.45.87.29, closed Monday night, with 22 (lunch) and 25 & 32 E (dinner) menus with items such as mushroom soup, mackerel/boudin noir and razor clams.
Tuesday in Le Fooding, Yves Nespoulous reviewed the Anglo-Franco-Spanish Ellsworth chef’d by a Canadian in the 1st by and conceived by the Perkins-Adrian team.
In Figaroscope, Emmanuel Rubin provided his usual five reviews, giving 3 hearts to Passerelle, 172, quai de Stalingrad in Issy, 01.46.48.80.81, closed Sundays and Mondays, where the price ranges from 70-100 E for items such as Irish sea urchins, sweetbreads and white asparagus. Garnering 2 hearts were 3 places : La Ribote, 17, rue Paul-Chatrousse in Neuilly, 01.47.47.73.17, already mentioned ; the Poulet Puree, 24, cours de l’ile-Seguin in boulogne-Billancourt, 01.46.21,53.19, open 7/7, where for 30-35 E (lunch formula 15.90 E) one cane at a terrine of œuf mayo, blanquette of chicken and a creamy dessert ; and the Italian Alimentari in the 11th. Getting just one star was Le Compas in the 2nd.
Figaroscope’s Dossier this week was written by Alice Bosio, Colette Monsat and Hugo de Saint Phalle , and rated Croque-Monsieurs giving Sebastien Gaudardis Patisserie des Tuileries top marks.
6.0 La Maree Jeanne, 3, rue Mandar in the 2nd (Metro: Sentier), open 7/7, is the fourth place by the gang that brought us Astier, Jeanne A. and Jeanne B. I went with the daughter of one of my oldest pals, now deceased, from Geneva - she studying theater in Paris at the moment. The tables are all schmooshed together which I didn't like, although from what I could see of the downstairs booths, they looked more commodious.
I took one look at the menu and thought "fried eperlans and fried merlan en colere - perfect". But it was not to be. Despite the fact that the menus looked like they had been printed today, they were out of the merlan. (And PS, the 18 E lunch "formule" was never pointed out or displayed)
In any case, we both started off with the eperlans, which tasted "fishy" to me, that came mixed with too many shaved veggies and too few shaved ginger roots. My friend did not finish hers and she's a well brought up French girl.
Then she had what was called a consomme, and I guess was, of lobster, poivrade and coco beans which I thought was a bit too thin, but she like muchly; and I had a feuillete of rouget barbet, colin and chorizo, the latter of which fused with the inner part of the pastry and gave it a great sparkling taste.
We were ambivalent about ordering dessert, after all, she hadn't finished her first nor I my main; but we though "why not?" And we were right - her chocolate tart and my vanilla cream with cassis berries were both top-top, well worth the few dips in the meal.
Our bill with a bottle and glass of Touraine, no bottled water, crispy crusted bread and 2 coffees, was 83.60 E. dB level 79.8.
Go? On balance, yes, but it will take another visit to decided if this will be a regular on my food route.
5.0 L'Adalie, rue de l'abbe Gregoire in the 6th, 01.42.22.66.09, closed Sunday and Monday, (Metro: St Placide) is a charming, fully packed new bistro opposite the Chambre de Commerce's Ferrandi which trains all the real workers in French kitchens (and has dinners prepared and served by the students - go just as they are to graduate.) The menu is a delicious looking one and the wine list reasonable.
The firsts today were a "perfect egg" (if I see this one more time I'm gonna scream) on a bed of garlic and bresaola and marinated mackerel. I had neither since I was into the 25 E supplement ris de veau.
One of my friends had the wild cod (couldn't prove it was wild by me); another had the shoulder of lamb; and I had the crusty sweetbreads; all over-cooked in my estimation and all with the same pepperini risotto (whatever that is.)
Then we sort of shared a rather pleasant warm tarte tatin and a straight out of the frigo chocolate mousse.
With a bottle of wine and one of Chateldon (my friends are from Manhattan) plus one coffee our bill of 124 E (thus 82. 66 E) was graciously picked up by my old friend in recompense for some long-forgotten (by me) friendly act.
5.0 Le Bistrot Augustin, 79, rue Daguerre in the 14th, 01.73.20.27.50, closed Sundays (Metro: Gaite) received 3/5 hearts from Emmanuel Rubin of Figaroscope, a rare rating, so dragged two of my food pals there today. It's a nice looking place, with a voiturier (so it has pretensions) and a 19 E plat du jour, 38 E menu-carte and a la carte quite a bit more. We perused the menu for some time, all deciding against any firsts, which was a wise decision, because the mains were plenty much for 1, 2 or even 4 persons.
Mme. No 1 had the linguine (it's a Corsican place) with poutargue and coques, quite pleasant, but requiring parmesan and pepper; Mme. No 2 had a veal chop(s) with potatoes, also quite pleasant; and I had the plat du jour - the poitrine of pork with nasty tasting sausages and terrific tasting lentils, albeit much to much.
There truly was so much food, none of us could muster up interest in dessert. Our bill, with no bottled water but a bottle and glass of wine and 3 coffees, was 109 E, thus 72.66 E a couple.
Go? As I said, it's a nice neighborhood bistro that all of us agreed we'd return to if living/working nearby, but 3 hearts?
7.4 L'Amarante, 4 rue Biscornet in the 12th, 09.50.80.93.80, closed Wednesdays and Thursdays, (Metro: Bastille) is the new place Christophe Philippe has settled at after abandoning his wonderful eponymous Christophe in the 5th December a year ago. I went with the French friend I've known indirectly since our student days, a woman who I know loves good, real, French food. We perused the menu and decided on the same things - dangerous, if one is uncertain hands, but we felt confident.
We started off with veal brains, beautifully crisp on the outside, moist on the inside; moved on to the veal sweetbreads, beautifully crisp on the outside, moist on the inside; and terminated with a chocolate mouse made with a mousse and chocolate chips from São Tomé & Principe, just mighty fine.
Our bill with a bottle and glass of wine, no bottled water and OK bread should have been 101 E a couple but for various reasons was totally all fouled up and we wound up paying 5.85 E apiece, so we'll need to revisit soon to repair the error.
Go? As we were getting up to go I said to my old pal - "pretty good place, eh?" And she said "pretty normal food," which for her is the highest compliment possible.
Le Gabriel in the Hotel La Reserve, 42, ave. Gabriel in the 8th, 01.58.36.60.50, open 7/7 (Metro: FDR) is a place I originally crossed off my list due to its prices (120 E a la carte, 115 E tasting menu) but reviewers and one of my dear friends said "Go!." And Figaro said it had a 58 E lunch menu so I convinced myself if I could go to 48 E places, why not here? It's swank, there's no other word for it, dripping with staff.
Well, the carte is certainly vertiginous but when the lunch menu appeared and I saw it was two forced courses (1st and main or main and dessert) costing 67 E I felt taken. My dining partner, who's in the business, said she'd not heard a good thing about the place - food, service, etc. Oh no. but we soldiered on.
The amuse was a pleasant enough round of salmon with dabs of sauce and shaved things on top; the Cesar salad was a long quarter or eighth of lettuce with some Cesar sauce within and I a pitcher to add, plus cromesquis of lobster and sardines; the milk-fed lamb cooked seven hours' style was accompanied by a dense wine sauce and a superb puree; and the mignardises that came with our 9 E coffee were nothing special.
Our bill, with a bottle of nice Cheverny, no bottled water and no dessert (they were about 20 E each), was 186 E a couple.
Monday-Tuesday, in A Nous Paris, Philippe Toinard reviewed and gave 3/5 dots to the aforementioned Les Comptoirs du Medoc; and Jerome awarded to same to the neo-bistrot Ribote, 17 rue Paul Chatrousse in Neuilly, 01.47.47.73.17, open weekdays with a 22 E lunch menu and 40 E carte, serving items such as haddock ceviche, confited lamb and lemon cream. In addition, Alexis Chenu discussed places serving roast chicken, including the Poulet Puree in Boulogne, Jeanne A. in the 11th, Rotisserie Stevenot in the 9th, Solyses in the 18th and also Mon Petit Poulet in the 17th, Loup in the 1st, Coq Rico in the 18th and the Rotisserie Dufrenoy in the 9th, 16th and 18th.
Tuesday in Le Fooding, Yves Nespoulous reviewed the seafood neobrasserie La Maree Jeanne, 3, rue Mandar in the 2nd, 01.42.61.58.34, open non-stop 12-23h00 7/7 serving items such as lobster consume, fried eperlans and bouillabaisse for 7-24 E a plate and a 18 E lunch menu.
Wednesday in Figaroscope, Emmanuel Rubin, in his Hache Menu, went to Louis in the 9th.
Then he followed with his usual five reviews, giving 3 hearts to the aforementioned Maree Jeanne in the 3rd and 2 to L’Orriu di Beauveax (formerly the Cave Beauveau) in the 8th, now serving Corsican food such as sardinade tarts, eggplant bonifacienne & conchiglioni with morilles on menus priced from 29-35 E at lunch and double that a la carte as well as the previously mentioned L’OW’Y in the 3rd. Also rans were the previously mentioned Le Bichat (1 heart) in the 10th and Huabu (busted heart) in the 9th.
Figaroscope’s Dossier this week was written by Hugo de Saint Phalle , Alice Bosio and Colette Monsat and discussded where the « top chefs » are now : Saperlipoette in Puteau L’Acajou La Scene a l’Hotel Prince de Galles Le Galopin & La Cave a Michel Antoine Pierre Sang on Gambey A Noste And also Miniatures & Bagnard, 1 K, Le Peninsula, La Plantxa, Metropolitain, Kube, Spontini 50 & Viande & Chef.
Wednesday, also, Heidi Ellison in Paris Update went to the previously mentioned Juste le Zinc in the 17th.
Thursday, in L’Express, Franois-Regis Gaudry reviewed the China Gourmand in the 9th.
Ah to be back to the high speed internet world of Paris after the week of suffering from Italian wifi.
That off my chest, today for a variety of geo-psycho-physical reasons I chose to spend some downtime in my hotel in Mestre, the Plaza, which other than its miserable wifi, lack of highspeed or good tele connections, is a delightful place to stay (we've been staying in Mestre since 1961 for another variety of reasons, when visiting Venice).
My plane back home (Paris) was at 15h30 so since there's no food at Marco Polo - pity - I figured the next best was the Marriott - Da somebody or other - but it was closed exceptionally, so my charming desk clerk suggested the Soul Kitchen in their building. "Are you kidding" thought to myself I? But ever the good soldier (remember Bronze Star Viet Nam) I reserved (10% off for hotel guests - whoopee).
Entered, parked luggage, installed, seized on my choices.
I started with my surefire Venice special, a green salad, this time fixed by myself, corrected a bit with freshly ground pepper and moved on to spaghettini vongole - verdict the clams were terrific, the pasta not so much.
My bill with wine, no bottled water, a coffee and a grappa to send me off to Parigi, was 33.75 E.