Chez Lena et Mimile

It was only one time, but it was pretty impressive.

8.2 Chez Lena et Mimile, 32, rue Tournefort in the 5th, 01.47.07.72.47, closed Saturday lunch, Sundays and Mondays, was one of those places that entered Paris under my radar screen, but has gradually built up a reputation for good, solid, but traditional food, deeply influenced by Herve This, the God of Molecular Cooking.  A minute on that point - This, author of several books and advisor and some say Svengali, to chefs and restaurants such as Pierre Gagnaire, Inaki Aizpitarte + Les Magnolias, has had an enormous influence on cooking world-wide.  I'm impressed differently by the way the above three places/persons have shaped This' thesis; for me Gagnaire has overwhelmed us with dishes and calories, Aizpitarte startled us by rubbing our noses in raw carrots and beets, and Jean Chavel has been the most reasonable yet magical interepter of This' principles - until I ate today at Chez Lena et Mimile.  On the one hand, it's in a magnificent location, sitting almost two stories over a sculpture garden/fountain at the end of the street but on the other hand, upon entering, it's as unprepossessing as any place in the 5th.  The menu is quite broad and despite the restos reputation as a shrine to This and Thiebault, it's quite normal.  I did want to test the molecular bent so I ordered strictly from the This items.  First, I had a soup of mushrooms with two slivers of toast atop which were threads of congealed egg yolks - the soup may have been the best I've ever had.  Then I had four large scallops with a fluffy sauce of grey shrimp, again I cannot recall a better scallop dish.  Oh and besides it was a dish of steamed February veggies with a wondefully spicy taste.  Finally, while I didn't really have room for it, in the service of you, dear reader, I sacrificed my body on a "sandwich" (my word not theirs) of sable with chocolate chantilly inside.  They did have one other This item, beef cheeks with a fluffy sauce of Syrah polyphenes and at night feature a 55 E all-This meal.  The bread was (I'm sure) Poilane, the coffee quite passible and the wine reasonably priced.  The bill, hold your seats = 47 E.

Go? Yes indeed. 

Comments

[Jay]

Thanks for the guidance John. I'm planning a trip to Paris in March. How far ahead of time, if at all, would you recommend reserving at Lena et Mimile?

[Johntalbott]

I had no trouble reserving the day before.