Asking a “guy” to write about romantic places in Paris seems oxymoronic; what do we know? what do we care?; candles, flowers, Sinatra – that’s seduction maybe, but romance? I mean, there are books written on the subject, for instance, Thierry Soufflard’s “Où s'embrasser à Paris” that translated turns up as “The Best Places to Kiss in Paris.” What can I add?
Surfing the web, you find hotels in the US essentially saying that if you can’t get to Paris for Valentine’s Day, book a room here (e.g. in the US). So Paris is firmly entrenched in Americans’ minds as “the” romantic city.
Well, isn’t it redundant to refer to Paris and Romance in the same sentence? Isn’t all of Paris romantic? Ask a dozen people about romantic spots in Paris, as I have recently, and you come up with a bewildering array of answers that includes buildings, streets, squares, cafés, restaurants and walks - all beautiful, romantic and enchanting.
Pick ten; impossible. But necessary for this exercise. So here we go; where do you go to do some:
Wandering and sitting and smooching.
There’s no place on earth like the Place des Vosges; you enter walking briskly, stop stunned and then semi-automatically stumble around looking up at the buildings, across at the fountain and down at the paths. I’ve never heard a cross word spoken within its confines; folks smile, regard reverently and relax. What better a place to begin a romance, or dream a renewal, or return to time after time.
The entrances to the Parc Monceau are like the gates of Nancy; glistening golden spikes reaching towards the sky. The gentle grassy slopes, the soft murmuring of voices and slow, almost still waters have a calming, charming and may I say romantic effect on all who enter (over 13 at least.) Sit on a bench, gaze on the palouse, surreptitiously sip on the wine and let it all sink in.
And finally, walk hand in hand through the Garden of Rodin, not as nice as the Garden of Eden, but close. The effect that the sunlight, trees, benches, gravel and water have on one’s view of the sculpture is magical and fun and uplifting, even romantic. And there’s one spot in the back where no one can see your amorous moves if you need to hide them. (Come to think of it, most other parks and gardens, vide the Rose Garden in the Bois be Boulogne, Sceaux, Luxembourg, Buttes Chaumont and Vincennes have similar trysting hideouts – ah the French!)
Eating and gazing and canoodling.
On the other hand, you cannot survive on love alone, so where are romantic places to eat? For old folks, places like the Tour d’Argent, Closerie des Lilas and Pre Catalan do hold their charms, and for the younger set Georges and MusicHall may do it, but I think you can do better.
How about Le Grand Vefour for pure dazzling décor and great food? One enters this palace of desire like a shrine, enshrined as it is in the Palais-Royal, and the presentations match the decorations. Though it’s been years since I’ve been, I still recall most tastes, most views and most delights. As for romance, it’s hard not to be in love with such a lovely place.
While it is famously remarked that: (1) the only place in Paris that the world’s ugliest building – the Tour Maine/Montparnasse – cannot be seen is at its own top and (2) the most romantic sight in Paris is the Eiffel Tower – which cannot be seen from inside – there is a win-win place, Le Ciel de Paris on the next to top floor of the Tour M/M. This revolving restaurant has surprisingly good food as well as cheese from Quatrehomme, for a tourist trap, and the view of Tout Paris and the Eiffel Tour, with its bursting bulbs, is quite some thing and even romantic.
Finally, what about Bofinger? Here again, one enters and admires the drop-dead décor, bustling brasserie boys and not-so-bad food for a 7/7, pile on the covers, serve the old favorites – food. And once again, just the sight of enjoyment, artful walls and abundant food set up a romantic situation.
Reminiscing and dreaming and hugging.
And after the meal, where to go? A walk, a stroll, indeed, a flanneur’s forage. And Paris, being Paris, is certainly the place to meander. Films over the years have captured the charm of its byways. While the most romantic film of all – “Casablanca” – has a movie set feel to its Paris shots, who is so hard-hearted as not to weep when Bogie says, as the 77’s sound nearby, that La Belle Aurore’s owner, Henri will be damned if he leaves any champagne for the Germans, so drink up and be merry and "Here's looking at you, kid."
The Banks of the Seine are probably the most filmed romantic sights of Paris. Woody Allen, in “Everybody Says I Love You,” used the edges of the river as a metaphor for love, romance and desire. And Julie Delpy and Ethan Hawke, in “Before Sunset,” walked its shores as they struggled with their mutual romantic dilemmas. So stroll along, on top or down below, as far as you want, on whatever side you want.
Speaking of “Before Sunset,” I thought I was the only person who loved the park-lette on top and at the end of the Avenue Daumesnil viaduct until I saw Delpy and Hawke stroll along. What makes it an even better stroll is the access to the art galleries and cafés below that one can literally drop down to street-level to visit.
The best setting for a thriller set in Paris (excepting Montmartre ) has got to be the Champs-Elysees in “The Day of the Jackal.” While the 14th of July is hardly a romantic day, unless you find the sight of tanks and rocket launchers sexy, walking along the “green” portion of the Champs and into the Tuileries has to qualify as a prime place to saunter on a perfect day. (It should be noted that while I’ve chosen outdoor places for six of my ten spots – remember two things about Paris in February – one, it has startlingly warm days in the midst of dreary cold ones and two, it can get 5-10 degrees warmer after lunch, and that’s not due just to the wine.)
Looking and feeling and holding.
My final and tenth romantic spot is a bateau mouche, I hear groans, no, no, hear me out. If money is no object, you can rent one privately and have yourself and your partner a great old time blending the water, the land and the food. A starlit night, the rolling waves, buildings alight and candlelight for the meal. Sounds pretty good to me.
My romantic favorites:
Le Grand Vefour
17, rue de Beaujolais, 1st (Metro:Palais-Royal)
T : 01.42.96.56.27
Closed Friday night, Saturday and Sunday
Menus: 75 € (lunch) and 250 € (dinner), a la carte : 230 €.
Le Ciel de Paris
56th floor of the Tour Maine/Montparnasse
33, avenue du Maine, 15th (Metro: Montparnasse-Bienvenue)
T : 01.40.64.77.69
Open everyday.
Menus: 32 € (lunch) and 54 €, a la carte : 75-90 €.
Bofinger
5-7, Rue St Martin, 4th (Metro: Bastille)
T : 01.42.72.87.82
Open everyday.
Menus: 22.50 € (lunch during the week), 33.50 € and 13.50 € (kids), a la carte : 40-55 €.
Rent a Bateau Mouche
http://www.bateauxdeparis.com/rent_a_bateau_mouche.php
Cost all depends on size and number of passengers.
*Written for and published around Valentine's Day 2006.
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