Monday-Tuesday, in A Nous Paris, Philippe Toinard, awarded 3/5 dots to a brasserie-bistro-bouchon Fabrique 4, 17, rue Brochant Paris in the 17th, 01 58 59 06 47, with fare such as a quenelle de broche, celeriac soup, andouillette, zucchini raviolis and fondant au chocolat or fresh fruits; lunch formula = 20 €, a la carte from 35-40 € ; and his colleague Jerome Berger reviewed and gave 3/5 dots to the one-year old l’Ordonnance, coordinates given before, serving eggs, andouilette, leeks vinegarette and baba on 17-30 € menus. On the sidebar, they noted that the MiniPalais is now serving drunch (between lunch and dinner) and didn’t think much of La Canaille in the 4th.
Tuesday, Sebastien Demorand {now in charge of “Good News”) in Le Fooding reviewed La Fidélité, 12, rue de la Fidélité in the 10th, 01 47 70 19 34, closed Sundays and Mondays, lunch formulas/menus : 16-21 €, dinner 26-32 € for food described as between earthy (pot au feu of pork cheeks) and silly (scallop tartare), between inspired (pumpkin soup with mussels) and safe (steak/fries). The wines sound interesting and affordable.
Wednesday, Joan Nathan’s article entitled “In Successful Paris Restaurant, Jewish Roots” on Daniel Rose’s Spring appeared in the NYT.
The Figaroscope Dossier written by Elodie Rouge, Wednesday was on “star” products and where to get them:
Burrata
Roberta
Amici Miei
La Pizzetta.
Veramente
La Gazzetta
Potimarron
Les Bouquinistes
Café Constant
Café des Musées
Beets
Senderens
Alcazar
Citrus Étoile
Brasserie du Lutetia
Zebra Square
Tapioca
La Bastide Odéon
Guy Savoy
Ladurée Le Bar
Somehow I missed an article last week on the 20 tables that made this year; they are:
Best Bobo Mama Shelter
Best bistro Jadis
Best Thai Oth Sombath
Best snob Bar Laduree
Best Ducasse Jules Verne
Best haiku Shu
Best palace Le Cinq
Best one room Jeu de Quilles
Best reconversation Les Terrines de Gerard Vie
Best Kyoto/Montmartre Guilo Guilo
Best move Itineraires
Best shock Pizza Chic
Best annex La Veranda
Best Korean Sobane
Best comeback 153 Grenelle
Best face B Etc.
Best reprise l’Assiette
Best BCBG l’Agapé
Best open kitchen Bigarrade
Best Chinatown Lao Lane Xang 2
Francois Simon’s Hache Menu was on Derriere, coordinates given before, where he comments on the chicken, salmon and beef cheeks for 119 € that included a “serious” St Joseph. Go? It doesn’t sound imperative but he’ll return.
Wednesday, Richard Hesse of Paris Update, reviewed Jadis, coordinates well-known and seemingly the hit of the month, where he found the food good and especially liked his goat cheese, recommended by the producer himself sitting nearby.
Jean-Claude Ribault in this Wednesday-Thursday’s Le Monde had two articles, the first about tasting champagnes and the second, wherein Didier Elena, of the Crayères in Reims, gave his recipe for abalone with a sabayon of champagne.
Friday, Francois-Regis Gaudry reviewed on his Express blog Les Editeurs, 4 carrefour de l'Odéon in the 6th, 01-43-26-67-76, running 40-50 €.
Saturday, Francois Simon in his “Croque Notes” in Figaro, went back to Spoon celebrating its tenth anniversary. In addition, he and Alexandra Michot, told readers where to get their Reveillon products:
Oysters – Ecailler du Bistrot
Salmon – Byzance and others
Foie gras – Fabienne Labeyrie
Capon – Hugo Desnoyer
Cheese, Vacherin Mont d’Or – Sebastien Dubois
Desserts – Pierre Herme
Saturday/Sunday, in Bonjour Paris, Margaret Kemp wrote about Alain Passard in an article entitled “The man who knows vegetables” and John Talbott wrote an essay on “How French Chefs Cover Their Sins.”
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