Oh my, I’ve ruined this place.

Oh my, I’ve ruined this place.

Recently when I left l’Epigramme, a place I’m really fond of and have written fondly about, I realized that many of the tables were full of very American looking couples who had all the appearances of the demographics of my readers and my heart sank; thinking “I’ve ruined this place.” I left sadder than when I entered.

Aside from the pure audacity and grandiosity of such a thought, I mean how could I, who get only a couple hundred hits a day, prompt a run of Anglo-Saxons on a new restaurant in Paris, I actually would be upset if my rave reviews brought about a “tilt” in the balance of clients in a place like l’Epigramme.

Why? What’s so wrong about Americans or others from the blogosphere who know about and love food and consult what’s hot on blogs of the big guys, such as Toinard and Simon or the little folk like me and websites such as eGullet and Bonjour Paris?

One of my eating pals gently ragged me one day for constantly praising Spring shortly after it opened, implying that I was raising expectations about Daniel Rose and potential clients. It was true, I was enthusiastic, perhaps too much so. But no, in retrospect, Spring and Rose have held up ever since and he just keeps turning out consistently good, solid meals.

And it’s also true that I keep plugging Ze Kitchen Galerie where William Ledeuil’s inventiveness and consistent excellence lure me back and back again.

I also have a notion that if one sees oneself as a journalist rather than a public relations agent, you are obliged to recount what you encounter, even if it’s boringly repetitive.

So again, once more discounting my self-inflated view of myself, I’ll soldier on, praising where praise is due and mentally grimace a little less when encountering a room full of Anglos and expats.

These thoughts were prompted by my thoughts at:
L’Epigramme
9, rue de L’Eperon, 6th (Metro: Odeon)
T: 01 44 41 00 09
Closed Sunday nights and Mondays,
Menu-carte: 28 €

Comments

[Charlie]

I have sympathy for your anguish; but I will be visiting Paris in March and very much appreciate your site. One of my goals is not to appear or act too "touristy"

[John Talbott]

Dress sensibly (no Hawaiian shirts), speak lowly (no shouting in French or clinking of glasses) and practice sandbox rules (Bonjour, Merci, au 'voir, a la prochaine).

[Katie]

When I first read the headline of this piece I was taken aback. I am of the very sort that hope to be "ruining" great restaurants in Paris when we visit this coming summer. I am excited to show my two teenagers the history, art and food of a cultural center like Paris. But, at the same time I hope that the anti-American sentiment of the city is not so apparant to them that they never return to experience more. After all, they have learned manners and street-wise discretion and deserve to be given a chance, no?

[John Talbott]

I never catch a whiff of antiAmericanism; anti-Bushism, anti-Gobalization; but everyone from my intimate friends to my newslady is if anything proAmerican and excited about our new President.

[Jake Dear]

Dear John Talbott,

We've been reading through the various parts of your site for the past few months, and all I can say is: I wish we’d found you years ago. This reminds us to mention that we've included you and your site in the short list of recommended Web sites on our own little blog -- see http://parisandbeyondinfrance.blogspot.com/2007/08/general-notes.html

This particular review, however really caught my attention. We’ve done our best, through our blog, to inform or remind about “how to blend in” so that we and others don’t monopolize and take over a dining room. One of the most visited parts of our blog is our "12 restaurant tips." (http://parisandbeyondinfrance.blogspot.com/2007/08/une-douzaine-restaurant-tips.html) This section is not about specific restaurants; instead, it's a list of tips, addressing culture and etiquette and based on our experiences. Many French friends have told us that they wish all tourists would read this section (and maybe a few will speak less loudly, to the benefit of the rest of us).

We also have a listing of books about France and the French -- this reflects our view, which I’m sure you share, that traveling to Paris and France is much more enjoyable and interesting if one can at least attempt to understand the society and culture.

Anyway, I just wanted to say thanks for all of your reviews and cultural insights.

PS: On our most recent trip to Paris (June 2009) we loved Ribouldingue (5eme) -- the offal specialists. I found an old review by you (2006) –- have you been back? –- Jake