Tuesday in Le Fooding, Sebastien Demorand reviewed Barbezingue, 14, bd. de la Liberté, Chatillion, 01 49 85 83 50, another Thierry Faucher (L’Os à Moelle)-offshoot, this a combo bistro-winebar-table d’hote-etc for the suburbanites, serving oysters and foie gras, snails, rabbit shoulder and a baba, 17 € for the table d’hote, 30 for the menu, count on 40-45 € a la carte.
Tuesday as well, in ANP, Philippe Toinard dined at the 3/5 Le Petit Champarrret, 30 rue Vernier in the 17th, 01.43.80.01.39, closed weekends, running about 30-50 € for gravlax, cod, panna cotta and citrus dessert. Jerome Berger gave 3/5 dots to Mets Gusto, 79, rue de la Tour in the 16th, 01.40.72.84.46, closed Sunday and Mondays, running one about 50 € for an ex-Ducassian’s fare of chicken with lardo, pulpo, pied de porc and clafoutis. There were also two notes in the center strip: one about the Italian Divinamente Italiano in the 2nd and the other – the guide of young chefs that includes mention in Paris of Drouant, Mon Vieil Ami, Itineraires, Ze Kitchen Galerie, l’Ami Jean, Les Saveurs de Flora + La Gazzetta.
Wednesday, Emmanuel Rubin in Figaroscope rated as 2/5 hearts, Leclou de Fourchette, 121, rue de Rome in the 17th, 01.48.88.09.97, closed Sundays, costing about 25-35 € for porkybits, a duck brochette with prunes and rice pudding as well as Mon Oncle, coordinates given before, where he liked the Milanese minestrone, boudin with mashed potatoes and cheese from the nearby Virginie. One heart each went to: the trattoria La Maison de Matteo, in the 9th and Bon Bec, 235 bis, rue St-Charles in the 15th, 01.45.54.05.31, closed Saturday lunch, Sunday and Monday dinner, costing about 30 € a la carte (19 formula) for onion grantinee, blanquette of veal and profiteroles. A broken heart went to Heureux Comme Alexandre, 2, impasse Berthaud in the 3rd, 01.48.87.88.22, closed Sundays, costing 15-25 € for a poor-price-quality meal consisting of a bourgignon fondue.
Figaroscope’s Dossier this week covered dining in the 16th:
Best best
l’Astrance
Best décor
Cristal Room
Best bistrot
Le Beaujolais d’Auteuil
Best seafood
Antoine
Best in the woods
Le Pre Catalan
Best stainless steel
Le Stella
Best come-back
Zebra Square
Best sushi
Comme des Poissons
Best putting on the dog
Le Murat
Best annex
Etc.
In his “Hache Menu,” Francois Simon reviewed another one in the 16th, Tokyo Eat, which he says is one of the pure pleasures of Paris at 80 € for two.
Wednesday, as well, Richard Hesse in Paris Update reviewed Le Cigale Recamier, coordinates given before, which he describes as busy, busy, busy, a fact that ruined his meal – everything about it was “detestable” except the food.
Jean-Claude Ribault, in this Thursday-Friday’s Le Monde wrote that [url=http://www.lemonde.fr/aujourd-hui/article/2009/02/06/tout-n-est-pas-bon-dans-le-jambon_1151791_3238.html] all was not well with ham.
Saturday in his “Croque Notes” in Le Figaro and blog, Francois Simon wrote about a meal at Firmin.
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