5.0 Le Bistro Volnay [sic], 8, rue Volney [sic] in the 2nd, 01.42.61.06.65, closed weekends, was described as an old place chef’d by a new guy who comes from Chez Michel (of course, you never know at what level or for how long) but it sounded interesting enough to try with an old friend, indeed my oldest continuous French friend.
I approached the place with trepidation, whoa,.... next to the Park Hyatt, fancy entry, all suits and ties and all men, most (around us) speaking English, an imposing menu, with hefty supplements for anything not on the “menu.” The waitladies were described by Philippe Toinard enticingly and they were indeed most welcoming.
There is a 24 € 3 course meal to be had at the counter that my pal briefly considered but we had a lot of catching up to do that such seating would make talking awkward. So we both had the 3 course lunch menu at 38 €.
She started with razor clams in butter and I with a fine salmon tartare with a great assortment of fresh herbs on top.
Then she had lamb chops that were not really as tasty as they should be at this time of year and I had a veal stew with spring veggies in a cocotte that was good but not great either.
She had a clafoutis of apples, quite unusual and good and I an equally good chocolate cake, both with ices that were OK.
Our bill with 2 Illy coffees, a bottle of wine and no bottled water was 98 €.
Go? After the other places I’ve been hitting this year, I really cannot recommend you rush to it. There was nothing wrong, just nothing really great.
I disagree - The food is great, the service sublime and the owners attentive and charming. Plus, it is on a little alley behind the Park Hyatt and such a special place. We have been many times and will return again, and again.
Posted by: Julia Damasco | June 15, 2011 at 03:53 AM
It depends which chef(s) you ate with. This was under chef #2 (Apr '09) in the progression of three chefs in three years; a year later (Apr '10) I returned with chef #3 and thought it much much better http://johntalbottsparis.typepad.com/john_talbotts_paris/2010/04/le-bistro-volnay-it-seems-like-yesterday-or-it-was-deja-vue-all-over-again.html
an in July '10, Colette declared it the epitome of French dining. http://johntalbottsparis.typepad.com/john_talbotts_paris/2010/07/le-volnay-on-volney-the-epitome-of-what-colette-likes-in-a-meal-in-paris.html
Posted by: John Talbott | June 15, 2011 at 01:22 PM