Tuesday in Le Fooding, Jim Bowie reviewed the Argentinian Santa Carne in the 4th.
Tuesday as well, ANP ‘s Philippe Toinard gave 4/5 to Bistro Volnay, 8, rue Volney, in the 2nd, 01 42 61 06 65, which has menus at 24, 32 et 38 € and a “bar formula” at 24 € for a main en cocotte, wine and coffee, closed weekends, run by a 33 yo chef exChez Michel, who doesn’t play at “food name dropping” (eg Bordier, Desnoyer & Poujauran) but serves other good product to make cold l'andouille, a pâté de campagne, veal jarret with foie gras, veal kidneys and a nougat crème brûlée or little pot of chocolate.
Wednesday, Emmanuel Rubin in Figaroscope gave 2/4 hearts to three places: Frenchie, coordinates given before, where he commented on the smoked trout, swordfish and lamb; the Pizzetta offshoot Pizzetta Piu Grande in the 18th; and the Breton Nomino, coordinates given last week, which doesn’t have galettes but a dozen small plates of things such as palourdes, smoked andouille and far with caramel butter for around 20 €. He gave one heart, the lead and photo though to 58 Tour Eiffel, coordinates given before and mentioned their asparagus, macaroni with truffles, grilled salmon and apricot pastry; but one heart to the New York Jewish Schwartz’s Deli in the 4th.
In Figaroscope’s Dossier this week by Colette Monsat et al wrote up Confidential restaurants (that is, those they knew but that are not written up in the guidebooks) in Paris:
Cheri Bibi
Café Salle Pleyel
Derriere
Le Café du 104
Foyer de laMadeleine
Foodlab
Salon du Pantheon
Studio 28
Atelier Guy Martin and then several unknown or hidden ones:
Dans le Noir
Conservatoire Serge-Rachmaninoff
Le Musee de la Vie romantique
Le Coin de Verre
The World Bar
Café Suedois
As usual, in the same spirit, in his “Hache Menu,” Francois Simon reviewed the bio epicerie Guen Mai, in the 6th which he says he’s passed 100 times, where he paid 17.50 for the daily special, sea trout and 5 € for a carrot-ginger juice; he say to go often.
Wednesday as well, Richard Hesse in Paris Update reviewed Passage 53 and gave his usually spot on summary of good (product, creativity) and bad (impossible staircase, pricey, corked wine) points.
Thursday, François-Régis Gaudry in l’Express reviewed as his resto of the week L'Invitation - 82, rue Boileau in the 16th, 01-46-47-87-19, menus at lunch 35 & 42, a la carte: 50 euros - run by an ex-Lavinia couple whose 15-seat place he compares to Jeu de quilles, Cul-de-poule + Mon oncle who serves jamon jabugo, sole, bread from Poujauran, cheese from Alléosse, lentiles with foie gras, a vegetable plate with mozzarella, pork, chicken and wines of the world ending with a crème brûlée. Also Jégu Pierrick, wrote up the Nominoe in the 4th as his resto under 30 €.
Saturday, Alexandra Michot and Francois Simon weighed in, in the Figaro, on El Bulli and Ferran Adria.
Saturday/Sunday, in Bonjour Paris, Margaret Kemp wrote about the Relais de Montmartre & Bistro de Breteuil and John Talbott wrote an essay entitled “Boobs and Bistros.”
Sunday in the JDD, Astrid T’Serclaes wrote up Jadis and Aurelie Chaigneau wrote up the Chinese and Korean places Shan Gout & Manna.
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